This is simply pointing out that if you are already using a Taser you can simply switch the programmer tail light setting to LED and eliminate the need for a resistor.
Dang that’s not good. Any chance you’d be willing to mock install them and post a few pictures? Just for us too excited to wait.OK, first observation is that the amount of wires between the two plugs is different. Not sure if it matters.
Second issue is the plugs won’t connect, it’s almost as if the gasket sealing rubber within the plug won’t let it go any further. Both sides have this issue—the stock one connects back without issue.
Really makes you wonder about their product testing procedures. Seems like several of their JT products have had these teething issues.OK, first observation is that the amount of wires between the two plugs is different. Not sure if it matters.
Second issue is the plugs won’t connect, it’s almost as if the gasket sealing rubber within the plug won’t let it go any further. Both sides have this issue—the stock one connects back without issue.
The factory gasket has already been compressed so they may snap in easier. You just need to use some muscle, watch our video for more help.
I’m using a decent amount, but I’ll give it another whirl. I’ll remove more of the harness from the inside for leverage.
I'll send you my address and you can ship them to me. Iam pretty good at getting things to "werk" and I'll come up with a solution?OK, first observation is that the amount of wires between the two plugs is different. Not sure if it matters.
Second issue is the plugs won’t connect, it’s almost as if the gasket sealing rubber within the plug won’t let it go any further. Both sides have this issue—the stock one connects back without issue.
Looks like they had that screw interference on their test truck too, not sure if they just bent their sheet metal out of the way a bit or ground it down but theirs does seem to fit up tighter to the vehicle all around.
That gap doesn't look to be much bigger than my factory lights.
