GEN 3 ECO INTAKE REPLACEMENT AT HOME DIY

[Sbro2021]

Good Morning all!
As I have mentioned in other threads, I have to replace the intake on my Jeep junk for P200 codes. I am currently in process of doing that job and will be posting pics as I complete the job. I wanted to reach out first to the masses to ask a question:

After getting the Intake removed and inspecting the ports, I have one that is incredibly clean compared the rest. ( front driver side port 2) has anyone who has done or seen the intake ports at this stage ever seen irregular buildup? I can't tie it to injector issue since the motor is direct injection like it was somehow wash down from a bad injector... Just curious if this has been seen before. Going to do the port blasting anyway on the rest to get them as clean as I can since this job SUCKS ASS to do. Pic below is the ports and it's obvious which is the clean one. also scope shot of back of valve.

More to come, have to take a break to do some adulting stuff and will be back on it after lunch!

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[JTdiRtyD]

Wait... looking at your other posts this thing has 110k on it?!

 

[Sbro2021]

Yeah I drive in circles a lot... It has less build up than I thought it would for pulling p200 codes.
The other valves I have to blast:

 

[Rusty PW]

The clean port could be from the way the EGR rube is pointed inside the manifold. It's pointed away from that port.

 

[Sbro2021]

Well sorry everyone, After getting this project done I have come to the conclusion there is nothing for me to contribute to the Interwebs that isn't already out there...
Summary:
1.Jobs sucks to do but can be done in driveway or garage.
2.Jeep can once again F**k off with telling me the body has to come off to do it.. Confirmed it does NOT! 4000$ savings there alone.
3. Only cussed roughly 20 times over dumb design things
that make it harder than necessary. The big Dumb Dumb is the bolts that hold the rails on. They are Torx head t40 with only about 1/2" clearance to the intake. Intake has to be loose to get them out and special tools to get to that bolt as well. Pro tip- Go to ACE and get hex head metric shoulder bolts,(pic) allows easy access with an end wrench without having to loosen up the intake first.
4. Driver side rail is the only one to remove. All passenger fuel stuffs can stay connected.
I 3d printed plugs with some TPU. for the fuel stuffs to keep the dirt out cuz I could.

I did not blast the ports as they weren't too bad considering. Gonna add water/meth injection soon and that really should clean it up.

No extra bolts were remaining in the repair of this Jeep Junk.. only take about 10ish tools to do the job if blasting is not needed. 7,8,10mm sockets in 1/4" drive a few extensions, inch pound torque wrench, 17, 19mm wrenches, magnets to fish for dropped intake bolts, an endoscope is good to have to find them with and glad I now have one, picks to pull on connector tabs to get em apart, and a S**T ton of patience to avoid breaking the endless amount of plastic things on that engine!
Cheers!!!

A few more pics just cuz:

Cw

 

[BuckeyeButch]

Makes me want to go back to a CJ7 304 combo.
I'm getting more disgusted with all the new shit.

 

[John in the Woods]

I’ll be doing this soon, so thanks for the insights.

 

[Sbro2021]

Adding insult to injury, this week glow plug 4 decided it does not want to play anymore. Lucky me get to try and dig that one out. At least it's the front driver and 2nd most accessible plug of the six.


Becaaaauuuuussseeeeee........>>!!

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