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ShadowsPapa

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Yes, concur as a trigger. didnt mean to imply that it would be a direct hookup. Good to clarify so that folks wouldn’t assume it was.
Yeah, it's amazing how many people "lurk" on forums like this - either members not commenting or non-members looking for ideas or solutions.

Anyway, your idea is sound as it would be ideal to have those lights on with a door unlock, etc.
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Mav4x4Chris

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I also have all the Mouser part numbers to build a "license lamp reverse lockout" if you're interested. Reversing at night without those stupid bright lights is a game changer!

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Now this looks like a great idea.
 
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OHJeeper

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Yea, turning off the license plate lights in reverse makes a huge difference.
Nice to see a low cost hardware solution for that (the Tazer does it in software as a live function, meaning it has to stay plugged in).
I'll post the parts/instructions in another thread
 
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OHJeeper

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You are taking ground at pin 6 and the backup light driver at pin 5- and what, a relay?
Where are you breaking the license plate lamp circuit?
I don't remember the pinouts off hand but yes: that's exactly what I'm doing. The picture was when I was testing the harness/tap without the relay in place (the black/green wires) to make sure everything worked because that harness has a LOT of stuff in it like ParkSense signals, etc.

Once I tested it out, I clipped the black/green and those are what's driving the relay, also hidden up in the tail lamp cavity.

I tapped into the license lights using a different harness under the truck along the frame rail. There are wires going from the relay to that harness that breaks the license lamp connection when reverse is on, and lets current flow if reverse is off . 57/57a, again I can't remember off the top of my head but I'll get all my notes together and do another write-up.
 

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Minty JL

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ShadowsPapa

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I don't remember the pinouts off hand but yes: that's exactly what I'm doing. The picture was when I was testing the harness/tap without the relay in place (the black/green wires) to make sure everything worked because that harness has a LOT of stuff in it like ParkSense signals, etc.

Once I tested it out, I clipped the black/green and those are what's driving the relay, also hidden up in the tail lamp cavity.

I tapped into the license lights using a different harness under the truck along the frame rail. There are wires going from the relay to that harness that breaks the license lamp connection when reverse is on, and lets current flow if reverse is off . 57/57a, again I can't remember off the top of my head but I'll get all my notes together and do another write-up.
I am tapped into the reverse and ground already to drive the Oracle backup lights - wouldn't take much to add a relay on the left side (my right side has the wiring from the aux switch and has the diode set to prevent feedback)
All I would need to do is dig into one of my cans of relays and find a small one with the diode across the coil (prevents a spike when de-energized) and find the feed for the license plate lamps since those obviously go through a different harness, not the tail light harness.

Anyway, yeah, 6 is ground, 5 right next to it in the same row handles the backup lights. It won't take much of a relay because 2 LED license plate lights can't be any real draw. Fractional amps.

85 and 86 are the coil of the relay. A good one will have a diode across there to take care of any spike. I had thought about using a transistor circuit to drive the relay to make it even better and take nothing from the backup light circuit to trigger the relay. Some of these light circuits are sensitive so I had wondered about taking even MORE power to run a relay because I'm already powering two additional LED backup lights when in reverse.

Anywho, then you run the license plate light wire through 30 (the common) and 87a (the normally closed half of the points) of the relay.
Relay energized, coil pulls 30 away from 87a and opens the circuit.

I've got relays added to my SX4 headlights, I used them for the power lock circuit I added, and used a relay and a couple of diodes to convert the stock AMC cruise control switch over to be able to control a Jeep cruise control which uses very different inputs for control. LOL - I almost have them memorized!

I'll probably use a relay socket so I could secure the relay in place - but also if anything ever failed, I could pull the relay and use a jumper across 30 and 87a to make the license plate lights operable again.

Looking forward to your next posts on this. I love this sort of thing.
 
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Gatorized

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Looking forward to your next posts on this. I love this sort of thing.
I love this stuff as well, but the written discription without the diagrams and pictures always gets my head spinning.
 

77badriand

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"I also have all the Mouser part numbers to build a "license lamp reverse lockout" if you're interested. Reversing at night without those stupid bright lights is a game changer!"

If you have the tazor this is an feature you can turn off from the menu settings.
 
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OHJeeper

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I love this stuff as well, but the written discription without the diagrams and pictures always gets my head spinning.
So, for my next post you're saying more diagrams and pictures?
 

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Gatorized

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So, for my next post you're saying more diagrams and pictures?
Yes - the pictures and diagrams tie it all together. Definitely appreciated! Especially with these over complicated systems - the days of simply running ground and positive and maintaining the ability to returning to stock configuration after the change are long gone. We are fortunate to have creative folks like yourself and @ShadowsPapa and others to not only solv/create these DIY’s but also to teach us the pitfalls if done incorrectly.
 

ShadowsPapa

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"I also have all the Mouser part numbers to build a "license lamp reverse lockout" if you're interested. Reversing at night without those stupid bright lights is a game changer!"

If you have the tazor this is an feature you can turn off from the menu settings.
Thanks anyway, but this isn't a "tazer is god" thread, it's a DIY thread - which many of us really appreciate.

I guess it's akin to winning top honors at a car show knowing you did every single nut and bolt, the body finish, all of it, yourself as opposed to the guy who went out and spent 60 grand and paid to have it all done.

DIY - for those who don't want or need a tazer (and the expense, etc.)

It's a Jeep thing - many wouldn't understand.
 

Duece McCracken

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I also have all the Mouser part numbers to build a "license lamp reverse lockout" if you're interested. Reversing at night without those stupid bright lights is a game changer!

1668601897246.png

1668601976682.png
Well, I'd love to see a write up on this. Im getting blinded by my License plate LEDs when in reverse, lmao
 

ShadowsPapa

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Well, I'd love to see a write up on this. Im getting blinded by my License plate LEDs when in reverse, lmao
My 2020 wasn't too bad, and this one isn't horrible unless there's a bit of dust or moisture on the camera then the light makes it 10 times worse (ok, maybe not 10, more like 8 or so)

All I need now is figuring for the license plate lamp ends.
I'm using a mini-relay to keep it really small and tight. Was going "electronic" with a switching transistor (PNP) but decided I've got a box of relays of various types and sizes I need to use before I die.
 

Duece McCracken

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My 2020 wasn't too bad, and this one isn't horrible unless there's a bit of dust or moisture on the camera then the light makes it 10 times worse (ok, maybe not 10, more like 8 or so)

All I need now is figuring for the license plate lamp ends.
I'm using a mini-relay to keep it really small and tight. Was going "electronic" with a switching transistor (PNP) but decided I've got a box of relays of various types and sizes I need to use before I die.
Lol, im actually in the middle of writing you a PM!
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