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Go to Source for Winch Power cable size?

rharr

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Combing the internet and can't seem to find any consensus on what size power cable to use for my winch.

Got a Warn XD9000 which has a max draw of 478 amp per their chart.

Seems like I need less the 4 feet for upfront, which means i could go a touch smaller? maybe 4ga or 1/0?

Also want to run a cable to the back of the jeep so I can use the winch as a rear pull (it's in a cradle).

So maybe 1/0 or 3/0?

Any good tips or references I can use to educate myself?

I have about 4' of cable that looks like what warn sells (black cover, joined pair, made in the USA, but it's only like 6ga, at least a 6ga lug fit over it snug before crimping.)
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Rusty PW

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Timely post. I’m installing a VR EVO 10s, which has a lower max draw (360 amps) than the others discussed here. I looked at a lot of calculators (sorry, I didn’t keep bookmarks) and discussed a bunch with a professional electrical engineer (brother-in-law)

One big question is “continuous” vs “intermittent“ specs. A winch is intermittent - but there isn't a clear definition of exactly how intermittent it might be. Very few specs call out an intermittent duty cycle. But let me go through some numbers I found -

The contactor pack included with the VR Evo 10s is an Albright DC88-1074P. Closest datasheet I can find says a 1000P-series is rated for 100A continuous, 185A at 30% intermittent duty cycle. That's for a 360A motor...

All the included wiring is 2g. For the 12" long leads between the control pack and the motor, this is fine for 360A. But for the 72" long leads to power and ground, no chart anywhere will say 2g is adequate for 360A.

Warn sells an accessory cutoff solenoid kit, containing an AMETEK SAS-4214 solenoid. Available in 100A and 200A versions (let's give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they ship the 200A), still no part of the spec meets 360A, much less the 450A+ of their larger winches

Losses in the winch situation add up as the inverse-sums, so each of these things matter a little. When everything is stone cold, first use, you'll get as close as you're going to get to the max power draw on the motor. Then as you continue to pull, things heat up and conductivity derates, current will drop off. Eventually you need to stop and let it all cool off, or your winch has suddenly lost a few thousand pounds of pull. For instance with my winch, if the system is limited to 300A at the motor, it's dropped from 10k to 8k.

If you keep pulling anyway - for instance your solenoids or contactors might be unable to break the current and you can have a nasty stuck-on situation. Uncommon, sure, but you don't have to search very hard to find examples on various forums, even with USA-made Warns.

I decided to go bigger, but not crazy big. Using the stock short cables to the control box in the stock position on top of the winch. 1/0 pure copper welding cable for the long power/ground run to battery (pure copper only, beware copper-clad aluminum). Blue Sea 9003E battery switch on the power line, close to the battery (350A continuous, 600A 5 min-intermittent). Bought a proper hydraulic crimping tool with an excellent die set to build the cables myself (beware cheap Chinese tools without separate AWG and metric dies!) - but online built-to-order battery cable suppliers are probably cheaper for a single install.

And yes, I know this might all be a bit excessive. Bolt up the stock 2g wires and forget about it, and it'll pull fine on the average flattish stuck. I just wanted to go a step or two beyond for the edge cases.
 
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rharr

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Thinking like me! I have the same crimper waiting to be used.

I have a call into a electrical engineer i know as well, to double check cable sizes.

Right now I am leaning towards running pure cu 2/0 front and back to give my self a little overhead.

The link from PW has some nice cable options.

I have a AMETEK SAS-4214 on my desk right now, planning to wire that to a AUX switch so I don't have to pop the hood and do a manual switch.

Any thoughts other then cutting open the SAS to find out if it's the 200amp silver contacts?
 

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Rusty PW

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When I redid the cables on my Power Wagon. I crimped and soldered all of my cable ends.
 

gladtohave

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Also want to run a cable to the back of the jeep so I can use the winch as a rear pull (it's in a cradle).
Please explain what you mean that it's in a cradle . You can remove the winch easily and then use for a rear recovery ? Thanks
 
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rharr

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Jcsii

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I always liked these contactors, a little overkill for what we do though. At the time I was working in the grid tie industry so my oem discount was a little better. Same with the cable, I usually had DLO cable scraps laying around.

https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/...o-contactors/dc-contactors.html?tab=pgp-story

Wire size can be confusing because it depends on a lot of factors, the duty cycle as described above, insulation temperature rating, space its running in etc. The cable can also act as a heat sink for the device its connected to.

https://www.awcwire.com/allied-university/product-faqs/automotive

Make sure you include the number of strands in your decision process, that makes a huge difference in flexibility.

I think XLPE insulation may have better abrasion resistance but some more knowledgeable people on the forum may know for sure what the best insulation is.
 
 







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