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How to get best of both Rubicon and Mojave worlds?

firemedic2714

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The following is JMO. I bought a JTR in August of 2019. I went Rubicon because I had a JKU Sahara and always wished I'd bought a Rubicon (and Mojave was not available at the time) and because after hearing all the negative forum press about almost every lift out there for Jeeps, I don't plan on lifting mine at all. The looks and mechanical advantages (over a Sport or Overland) of the Rubicon suit me just fine. Also, I live in the Midwest where there is no desert, but plenty of Ozark Mountains. To me, the 1 in. of lift the Mojave has over the Rubicon is negligible. I can't hardly tell when there side by side let alone out on the street. I have both tops and as my Jeep sits on stock suspension and factory Falken A/Ts, it barely fits through my seven foot garage door with the top folded (I know I'd forget to unfold it and destroy the frame at some point, so it has to fit). A Mojave would have been too tall anyway.

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Dakarider

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I think Jeep overbuilt the Mojave because they didn't want it to have any issues. I really liked the one I test drove. I just didn't want to have to live with the reduced payload and towing ability, not to mention the higher cost. But its a great ride.
 

eternus

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yeah, I am having a similar experience... My normal Forest trail, I used to run around 15 mph, now, I cook at 25 mph, and I hit the bump stops on one rut at setting 2.4. The next time, I set the shocks at 2.5 and hit the same rut, at the same speed and no bump stop hit - great predictable shocks... BTW, you have to try setting 3 on the street -- in high winds, or in a curvy canyon -- the suspension transformation is amazing -- Gladiator stays level, and your confidence goes way up -- you can carve up a curvy canyon with 37" mud tires. lol.
This is the paragraph I keep looking for. (c: I just got from Moab this weekend and driving over the pass on i70 with Rubicon suspension was crap, between the shitty road condition and curves it was a white-knuckle experience at highway speeds. I've ordered the steering stabilizer and was about to order the 3.3 Piggybacks, but glad to see how great they are. I'm trying to decide if I want to go with Mojave front springs or just keep using the Rubicon springs though.
 

eternus

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So I found a hell of a deal on some Mojave take offs.. Springs and shocks all for $450.
So I said what the hell.. let's try it!!
Springs and rear shocks are direct bolt on.. Rides like a dream!! Got an extra 3/4" lift on front.. Put the rears on and got my rake back! lol So may install my leveling kit later..
Now to figure out how to mount the front shocks.. The upper Rubi shock bushing fits the Mojave shock so to either drill out the upper mount to fit the bigger bolt or find a new bushing that will fit the smaller bolt..
The lower Rubi bushing is smaller.. so either drill out the lower hole for the bigger bolt or find a bushing with a smaller bolt hole..

So I got the ride quality of the Mojave with the prowess of a Rubicon.. :rock:
I know it's not all that the Mojave has like bumpstops and all that crap.. But not going to do high speed washes anytime soon.. ;)
Fun fun!

Jeep Gladiator How to get best of both Rubicon and Mojave worlds? 20210411_120008


Jeep Gladiator How to get best of both Rubicon and Mojave worlds? 20210411_120008


Jeep Gladiator How to get best of both Rubicon and Mojave worlds? 20210411_120008
Did you happen get a picture of the previous springs next to the Mojave (both unloaded) to compare height? Or did you note a lift increase after installing the new springs?
 

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SubiRubi

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Did you happen get a picture of the previous springs next to the Mojave (both unloaded) to compare height? Or did you note a lift increase after installing the new springs?
I did but don't have it with me.. The springs are the same height.. But the spring rate is different.. The Rubi's are tighter.
I did gain about 3/4" in the front
 

eternus

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I did but don't have it with me.. The springs are the same height.. But the spring rate is different.. The Rubi's are tighter.
Cool, is the handling much different at highway speeds (that you've noticed) since swapping springs? I think I'm leaning towards Synergy springs and Teraflex shocks, so just jumping past the Mojave suspension anyway. =oP I do wonder at what point I get rid of my Max Tow rear springs though... if there is ever a benefit, since I'm not ever going more than 1.5" lift (and thus not needing to upgrade control arms.)
 
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SubiRubi

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Cool, is the handling much different at highway speeds (that you've noticed) since swapping springs? I think I'm leaning towards Synergy springs and Teraflex shocks, so just jumping past the Mojave suspension anyway. =oP I do wonder at what point I get rid of my Max Tow rear springs though... if there is ever a benefit, since I'm not ever going more than 1.5" lift (and thus not needing to upgrade control arms.)
The only difference I've noticed is the ride is softer than the Rubi springs.. The highway ride is great. If I hadn't found this great deal I would have just waited and got some Falcon.. From what I hear that's the money shot!
 
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SubiRubi

SubiRubi

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Rubi-Jave is finally done.. Thanks to some help from TXSmitty I made some sleeves to fit the smaller Rubi bolts.. Nice and snug! I have also been seeing posts that the reservoir would not fit due to the electronic disconnect which is not true.. I still had about 1/2 and inch clearance.. Took it out and works great.. Trails this weekend!! :)

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DirtGadgets

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I've been seeing posts about the differences between the 2 and that they both have their good points and purposes.. But what can you do to get the best of both worlds?

If you have a Mojave you can add front locker, sway bar discos and a transfer case.. Awesome..
But if you have a Rubi can you not just add the Mojave knuckles, reservoir shocks and the Tazer Mini to use just rear locker in 2 hi and get the same thing? Rock crawling awesomeness with the dampening for high speed runs..

Reason I ask is I'm thinking of doing this but not sure what the drawbacks would be.

TIA
I drive a 3.5" lifted Mojave with 37's and I've retained the stock 2.5" Fox shocks. You can review my build here:
If you have your heart set on the Mojave and plan to go to with big tires (37" plus) you'll end up buying or building custom axles long-term. Adding a front locker or sway bar disconnect to match the Rubicon likely will be off the table. You'll desire heavier steering knuckles, axle tubes, chromoly axle shafts, heavier brakes, and you'll end up re-gearing too. When you get to that step you'll drop the stock Mojave axles altogether and go with Dynatrac, Currie, G2, Spicer/Dana, or some other heavier axle housings along with a grab bag of other components for various manufacturers. I say this because it's the conclusion I've arrived at.

I've learned a ton over the past couple years building up two very capable rigs—a 2019 Wrangler JLU Sport S and a 2020 Gladiator Mojave. Both still have a way to go before I'm finished, but I would not buy the Mojave again. Don't get me wrong, it's an awesome trim level. I love the looks and details. It's classy. I wouldn't buy it again though because I have a much clearer long-term build plan. I would have saved a small fortune going with a base model Gladiator if I'd planned ahead better.

In other words, I think what your driving at is less about drawbacks and more about you and the purpose of your build. There are always compromises depending on what you plan to do with your build. For example...

  1. Where/How are you driving your Jeep?
  2. What is your build budget?
  3. What capabilities do you need vs. can you go without?
  4. How skilled/equipped are you to work on your build yourself?
  5. What are your long-term build plans?
  6. Is retaining your factory warranty a priority?

If you're new to building Jeeps, either a Rubicon or a Mojave are fantastic trim levels. You don't have to spend all the coin those trim levels require to build a great Jeep. If you're skilled/equipped to work on your own build go with a lower trim level and build it up over time. $30K goes a very long way in the aftermarket. You can walk away with a build far superior to either a Mojave or a Rubicon for close to the same money.

Now, if you're less skilled/equipped to work on your own rig buying a higher trim level based on where/how you drive may be a smart direction to go. For example...

...If you're daily driving on paved roads the majority of the time, perhaps doing little to no hauling, crawling, off-roading, or overlanding, buy the Mojave. The stock Mojave ride quality is FAR more comfortable than a stock Rubicon. Bumps, potholes, and generally horribly maintained roads won't really rattle you in the cabin of a Mojave. In addition, you can retain the expensive Fox 2.5" shocks by doing the MetalCloak 3.5" GameChanger lift for the Mojave, which can be purchased with quick disconnect sway bar links.

...If you're spending evenings, weekends, and vacations driving off-road then get the Rubicon. The front-axle locker and sway bar disconnect are great factory options and can get you out of a pinch driving forest/park service roads, novice crawling, and overlanding. While the ride is stiffer in the Rubicon, that translates to higher hauling/pulling weight capabilities. You can easily lift a Rubicon too without wasting money on high-end parts you may have to take off. The gear ratio for crawling is more appropriate on the Rubicon as well.

...If you've got a long-term vision to build an apocalypse proof rig then go with a low trim level—Sport or Sport S. You'll end up rebuilding everything from the floor pan to the ground anyway. This may include a different transfer case, heavier axles, bigger wheels (37"+), shocks, springs, control arms, sway bars+links, track bars, drag link, tie-rod, bracing, steering stabilizer, steering knuckles, hydraulic assist steering, chromoly axle shafts, high-steer knuckles, heavy duty drive shafts, bigger brakes, etc. You'll end up flashing the computer too. It will be a ton of work, but your build will be ready for anything. All these parts cost a pretty sum, but if you're patient you can pay for 2/3 of this work by saving the difference in cost between the lower and higher level trim packages.
 

andrew8404

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I drive a 3.5" lifted Mojave with 37's and I've retained the stock 2.5" Fox shocks. You can review my build here:
If you have your heart set on the Mojave and plan to go to with big tires (37" plus) you'll end up buying or building custom axles long-term. Adding a front locker or sway bar disconnect to match the Rubicon likely will be off the table. You'll desire heavier steering knuckles, axle tubes, chromoly axle shafts, heavier brakes, and you'll end up re-gearing too. When you get to that step you'll drop the stock Mojave axles altogether and go with Dynatrac, Currie, G2, Spicer/Dana, or some other heavier axle housings along with a grab bag of other components for various manufacturers. I say this because it's the conclusion I've arrived at.

I've learned a ton over the past couple years building up two very capable rigs—a 2019 Wrangler JLU Sport S and a 2020 Gladiator Mojave. Both still have a way to go before I'm finished, but I would not buy the Mojave again. Don't get me wrong, it's an awesome trim level. I love the looks and details. It's classy. I wouldn't buy it again though because I have a much clearer long-term build plan. I would have saved a small fortune going with a base model Gladiator if I'd planned ahead better.

In other words, I think what your driving at is less about drawbacks and more about you and the purpose of your build. There are always compromises depending on what you plan to do with your build. For example...

  1. Where/How are you driving your Jeep?
  2. What is your build budget?
  3. What capabilities do you need vs. can you go without?
  4. How skilled/equipped are you to work on your build yourself?
  5. What are your long-term build plans?
  6. Is retaining your factory warranty a priority?

If you're new to building Jeeps, either a Rubicon or a Mojave are fantastic trim levels. You don't have to spend all the coin those trim levels require to build a great Jeep. If you're skilled/equipped to work on your own build go with a lower trim level and build it up over time. $30K goes a very long way in the aftermarket. You can walk away with a build far superior to either a Mojave or a Rubicon for close to the same money.

Now, if you're less skilled/equipped to work on your own rig buying a higher trim level based on where/how you drive may be a smart direction to go. For example...

...If you're daily driving on paved roads the majority of the time, perhaps doing little to no hauling, crawling, off-roading, or overlanding, buy the Mojave. The stock Mojave ride quality is FAR more comfortable than a stock Rubicon. Bumps, potholes, and generally horribly maintained roads won't really rattle you in the cabin of a Mojave. In addition, you can retain the expensive Fox 2.5" shocks by doing the MetalCloak 3.5" GameChanger lift for the Mojave, which can be purchased with quick disconnect sway bar links.

...If you're spending evenings, weekends, and vacations driving off-road then get the Rubicon. The front-axle locker and sway bar disconnect are great factory options and can get you out of a pinch driving forest/park service roads, novice crawling, and overlanding. While the ride is stiffer in the Rubicon, that translates to higher hauling/pulling weight capabilities. You can easily lift a Rubicon too without wasting money on high-end parts you may have to take off. The gear ratio for crawling is more appropriate on the Rubicon as well.

...If you've got a long-term vision to build an apocalypse proof rig then go with a low trim level—Sport or Sport S. You'll end up rebuilding everything from the floor pan to the ground anyway. This may include a different transfer case, heavier axles, bigger wheels (37"+), shocks, springs, control arms, sway bars+links, track bars, drag link, tie-rod, bracing, steering stabilizer, steering knuckles, hydraulic assist steering, chromoly axle shafts, high-steer knuckles, heavy duty drive shafts, bigger brakes, etc. You'll end up flashing the computer too. It will be a ton of work, but your build will be ready for anything. All these parts cost a pretty sum, but if you're patient you can pay for 2/3 of this work by saving the difference in cost between the lower and higher level trim packages.
I agree mostly. It’s way cheaper to get a Sport S then buying the Rubicon or Mojave. I bought a Sport S to build up and would have been cheaper then a Rubicon but with used car market it was cheaper for me to trade it in and get a Rubicon. Now, if your going to be putting axles in then Sport S all day long. Buy majority of people that’s overkill and way to expensive unless your doing hardcore off-roading.
 

rharr

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The other thing you have to look at is drivability. When you start building things to such a high level it introduces new variables that may or may not make it have the pleasant road manners we have come to expect from stock.

From experience adding 8" lift and all the other bits to my XJ made it great off-road, but drive it 7 hours on the highway and you are not enjoying yourself.

It's all compromises, for me going with a Ruby was the closest I could get to my XJ's ability but still have a way better driving experience.
 

friskeljr

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I did but don't have it with me.. The springs are the same height.. But the spring rate is different.. The Rubi's are tighter.
I did gain about 3/4" in the front
Im debating on Mojave springs and falcon shocks in my overland. Wife made me test drive one at the dealership and the getting back in the overland was just not the same.
im guessing i would gain a little more lift than you did on your rubi.
 

friskeljr

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I drive a 3.5" lifted Mojave with 37's and I've retained the stock 2.5" Fox shocks. You can review my build here:
If you have your heart set on the Mojave and plan to go to with big tires (37" plus) you'll end up buying or building custom axles long-term. Adding a front locker or sway bar disconnect to match the Rubicon likely will be off the table. You'll desire heavier steering knuckles, axle tubes, chromoly axle shafts, heavier brakes, and you'll end up re-gearing too. When you get to that step you'll drop the stock Mojave axles altogether and go with Dynatrac, Currie, G2, Spicer/Dana, or some other heavier axle housings along with a grab bag of other components for various manufacturers. I say this because it's the conclusion I've arrived at.

I've learned a ton over the past couple years building up two very capable rigs—a 2019 Wrangler JLU Sport S and a 2020 Gladiator Mojave. Both still have a way to go before I'm finished, but I would not buy the Mojave again. Don't get me wrong, it's an awesome trim level. I love the looks and details. It's classy. I wouldn't buy it again though because I have a much clearer long-term build plan. I would have saved a small fortune going with a base model Gladiator if I'd planned ahead better.

In other words, I think what your driving at is less about drawbacks and more about you and the purpose of your build. There are always compromises depending on what you plan to do with your build. For example...

  1. Where/How are you driving your Jeep?
  2. What is your build budget?
  3. What capabilities do you need vs. can you go without?
  4. How skilled/equipped are you to work on your build yourself?
  5. What are your long-term build plans?
  6. Is retaining your factory warranty a priority?

If you're new to building Jeeps, either a Rubicon or a Mojave are fantastic trim levels. You don't have to spend all the coin those trim levels require to build a great Jeep. If you're skilled/equipped to work on your own build go with a lower trim level and build it up over time. $30K goes a very long way in the aftermarket. You can walk away with a build far superior to either a Mojave or a Rubicon for close to the same money.

Now, if you're less skilled/equipped to work on your own rig buying a higher trim level based on where/how you drive may be a smart direction to go. For example...

...If you're daily driving on paved roads the majority of the time, perhaps doing little to no hauling, crawling, off-roading, or overlanding, buy the Mojave. The stock Mojave ride quality is FAR more comfortable than a stock Rubicon. Bumps, potholes, and generally horribly maintained roads won't really rattle you in the cabin of a Mojave. In addition, you can retain the expensive Fox 2.5" shocks by doing the MetalCloak 3.5" GameChanger lift for the Mojave, which can be purchased with quick disconnect sway bar links.

...If you're spending evenings, weekends, and vacations driving off-road then get the Rubicon. The front-axle locker and sway bar disconnect are great factory options and can get you out of a pinch driving forest/park service roads, novice crawling, and overlanding. While the ride is stiffer in the Rubicon, that translates to higher hauling/pulling weight capabilities. You can easily lift a Rubicon too without wasting money on high-end parts you may have to take off. The gear ratio for crawling is more appropriate on the Rubicon as well.

...If you've got a long-term vision to build an apocalypse proof rig then go with a low trim level—Sport or Sport S. You'll end up rebuilding everything from the floor pan to the ground anyway. This may include a different transfer case, heavier axles, bigger wheels (37"+), shocks, springs, control arms, sway bars+links, track bars, drag link, tie-rod, bracing, steering stabilizer, steering knuckles, hydraulic assist steering, chromoly axle shafts, high-steer knuckles, heavy duty drive shafts, bigger brakes, etc. You'll end up flashing the computer too. It will be a ton of work, but your build will be ready for anything. All these parts cost a pretty sum, but if you're patient you can pay for 2/3 of this work by saving the difference in cost between the lower and higher level trim packages.
you need someone to take the stock set up off your hands? im looking for mojave springs
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