HPFP aftermarket fix?

[Mouse]

New pump installed

Like I said, they cover and foam insulation is a bit difficult to get back on. I did have some before pics to help. I'd recommend watching closely when you remove it (better than I did), so you can get it back on.

I've been driving for a few days and everything is just fine - no leaks or anything funny. I had to put the Banks Derringer on the highest setting and drive "spiritedly" (lol) to test it. Everything is fine

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[Mouse]

Here are the Stellantis instructions - they cover a complete fuel system change and also just the pump. Its a good reference.

 

[Rusty PW]

I'm happy to post a bit more. I followed the Stellantis procedure for the most part.

Some notes - If I were trying to be quick, I could probably finish in 2-2 1/2 hours. I was in no rush, so I took my time at 4 hours. The hardest part? Putting the stupid cover with the rubber insulation back on...tight spot and its a bit grumpy to get it together.

Special tools I used included the Mopar installation studs (~$70, could be replicated by cutting the heads off of 2 bolts the same thread/length - I can measure if anyone wants me to), and a small spanner wrench for installing the gear and clocking it. Pictures below. Instructions called for a degree wheel, but I didn't use it (to mark the gear position when removing the old pump).

The procedures say the high pressure fuel lines to the heads are not re-useable, so I bought a set along with an extra o-ring for the pump (RCD sends one on it). Those parts cost me about $150 with shipping and I didn't use any.

The lines are stainless steel with a bubble flare. If they leaked, I was prepared to change them. The fittings are visible with the cover installed.

Wondering about indexing the gear. Is there any marks on the gear and shaft to go by?

 

[Mouse]

The gear on my OEM pump had a small blue mark and the round hole for the spanner wrench. There were no marks on the shaft or pump; i believe the gear will be in a random position when removing it. There are plenty of landmarks to use though. You'll see in my pictures that used a blue sharpie to mark the orientation. I aligned it to the hole on the gear.

The gear only fits on the shaft in one position dictated by a slot on the gear and an associated roll pin on the shaft. To align the gear to match the original, you turn the gear (was pretty easy with the spanner wrench)

 

[Vtur]

The gear on my OEM pump had a small blue mark and the round hole for the spanner wrench. There were no marks on the shaft or pump; i believe the gear will be in a random position when removing it. There are plenty of landmarks to use though. You'll see in my pictures that used a blue sharpie to mark the orientation. I aligned it to the hole on the gear.

The gear only fits on the shaft in one position dictated by a slot on the gear and an associated roll pin on the shaft. To align the gear to match the original, you turn the gear (was pretty easy with the spanner wrench)

Great write-up. This will comes in handy for many folks.

Wanna sell me your old pump? I love tinkers with stuff like this and would like to exams the internal myself. Bummer that i couldn't keep my old recalled pump.

 

[Free2roam]

The gear on my OEM pump had a small blue mark and the round hole for the spanner wrench. There were no marks on the shaft or pump; i believe the gear will be in a random position when removing it. There are plenty of landmarks to use though. You'll see in my pictures that used a blue sharpie to mark the orientation. I aligned it to the hole on the gear.

The gear only fits on the shaft in one position dictated by a slot on the gear and an associated roll pin on the shaft. To align the gear to match the original, you turn the gear (was pretty easy with the spanner wrench)

So does it need to be reinstalled the exact same way as it came off? Is there im guessing in the OEM directions something that says TDC on a particular cylinder?

 

[PuddleJumper]

I am contemplating buying a leftover 2023 Rubicon Ecodiesel but with all the pump failures I am hesitant. I did find a company that makes a pump for the ram and states it will work for 2014-2022 ecodiesels. I emailed them to see if it is comparable for gladiators and waiting to hear. The pictures make it look compatable. If it does fit, I think I will pull the trigger on it. Here is their description post your thoughts:

2014-2024 RAM 1500 3.0L ECODIESEL CPX FUEL PUMP

The CP4 pump Bosch should have built, the CPX.
• Pinned lifter buckets to prevent rotation and stop failures. Even during a gel.
• New feed port, preventing any contaminated crankcase debris from entering the plungers and barrels. (Built in disaster prevention kit)
• Direct drop-in replacement, no aftermarket fuel lines or components needed.
• No additional labor or modifications to install.
• 24 Month no questions asked replacement warranty.

And just to point out, the whole “US diesel fuel doesn’t have enough lubricity for the CP4.” That’s a lie. I have disassembled, measured and under microscope, inspected pumps with over 500k miles with essentially zero wear.

The flaw was nothing to stop the roller lifter from rotating in a vacuum event. (Gel, filter change, low pressure feed issue.) This is why the LML Duramax pumps drop like flies. There is no lift pump to keep positive pressure on the plungers and barrels.
This allows a slop, or gap between the cam and the lifter roller. Which allows it to turn. Similar to a roller cam in a engine. When there is no lifter guide or link bar. The lifter rotates, destroying the cam and lifters and filling the engine with hardened metal filings. These filings, are what fills your fuel rails and injectors with debris, ruining them.
All 2011 - 2024 RCD CPX CP4 pumps are modified internally in a 5 AXIS CNC to return fuel to the tank. This prevents debris from entering the injector in the instance of a failure. "DISASTER KITS" ARE NOT NEEDED!

https://rcdperf.com/products/2014-2019-ram-1500-3-0l-ecodiesel-cpx-fuel-pump?variant=40346562134114

Damn. Solid info. Thats like half the headache for eco guys.

 

[Mouse]

Great write-up. This will comes in handy for many folks.

Wanna sell me your old pump? I love tinkers with stuff like this and would like to exams the internal myself. Bummer that i couldn't keep my old recalled pump.

I plan to keep my old pump; I've got it on the shelf with the lines and o-ring for future insurance

So does it need to be reinstalled the exact same way as it came off? Is there im guessing in the OEM directions something that says TDC on a particular cylinder?

If you don't rotate the old pump when you remove it and match that orientation on the new pump when its installed, then no new timing procedure is required. There is a mechanical timing procedure that involves rotating the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder (I was hoping to avoid that and was successful). The pump doesn't turn super easy, but isn't too difficult using the spanner wrench - as long as you're careful I think the risk of losing the gear orientation is low

 

[Free2roam]

I plan to keep my old pump; I've got it on the shelf with the lines and o-ring for future insurance



If you don't rotate the old pump when you remove it and match that orientation on the new pump when its installed, then no new timing procedure is required. There is a mechanical timing procedure that involves rotating the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder (I was hoping to avoid that and was successful). The pump doesn't turn super easy, but isn't too difficult using the spanner wrench - as long as you're careful I think the risk of losing the gear orientation is low

So then you just have to match up the new pump with the old as far as the orientation. Install it and should be good to go. Not much different than changing a timing belt. If nothing moves. All is good. Technically if the orientation of the old pump and new one are identical. You should be able to just align and drop a new one in without changing it to cylinder 1 TDC. Correct?

 

[Mouse]

So then you just have to match up the new pump with the old as far as the orientation. Install it and should be good to go. Not much different than changing a timing belt. If nothing moves. All is good. Technically if the orientation of the old pump and new one are identical. You should be able to just align and drop a new one in without changing it to cylinder 1 TDC. Correct?

Yes, thats it.

 

[Free2roam]

So next dumb question. Does all that stuff have to be removed in the procedure put forth by Stellantis? Or is it more simple that that? Like unhooking the fuel pump, removing it, align with the new one. Reinstall. Without taking all that extra stuff off? Or is it absolutely necessary?
I mean obviously certain gaskets may need to be replaced, o-rings, etc.

 

[Free2roam]

So I need an opinion. I had the distinct pleasure of sitting down/next to who will remain nameless for now. But is a general manager at Bosch. Yes I mean the fuel pump maker. Debating on making a thread and asking for information on what the dealer said. Possible information on the end result, and if there is anything that can be done on their end to rectify the situation. I would be sending all pertinent information via email directly to this person. So shoot your shot. You can also DM me if you want.
There are no guarantees that anything will come of this. Any of this information I would be given from said manager might not be for public viewing.

Is it worth the hassle or has the ship sailed?

 

[Mouse]

So next dumb question. Does all that stuff have to be removed in the procedure put forth by Stellantis? Or is it more simple that that? Like unhooking the fuel pump, removing it, align with the new one. Reinstall. Without taking all that extra stuff off? Or is it absolutely necessary?
I mean obviously certain gaskets may need to be replaced, o-rings, etc.

I only removed the cover, lines and the pump. Only consumable/wear part was the o-ring on the pump (new one provided by RCD)

 

[Jrgunn5150]

So does it need to be reinstalled the exact same way as it came off? Is there im guessing in the OEM directions something that says TDC on a particular cylinder?

I changed mine in my office parking lot after 5 beers at the taco joint.

So, no, no need to index it with perfect precision.

 

[Free2roam]

I changed mine in my office parking lot after 5 beers at the taco joint.

So, no, no need to index it with perfect precision.

Seriously??!!! Does the gear need to be aligned with anything or is it just a mechanical pump? It's not actually timed with cylinder 1?
So just a bit more technical than an old Chevy 350 mechanical pump

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