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Is it possible to wire this harness to one of the AUX switches?

ShadowsPapa

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I agree. Whether you have a factory installed aux. switches or added later, they will both have relays. Wouldn’t be advisable to run 40
amps through a switch, that’s why they both have em.
The other bigger reason is the fact the switches are not current carrying switches and only tell the BCM what to do based on how they are configured.
They are configured in the radio settings screen. They COULD install switches for carrying a load, but then - you'd not have any configurability at all. They'd be on or off, period.
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The other bigger reason is the fact the switches are not current carrying switches and only tell the BCM what to do based on how they are configured.
They are configured in the radio settings screen. They COULD install switches for carrying a load, but then - you'd not have any configurability at all. They'd be on or off, period.
Mine are displayed in the dash screen. I have an Aux. switch option. I can have them Latched. Momentary. Manual On. or Ignition. The dealer also programmed the add on in the computer system, so it shows up in the VIN number.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Mine are displayed in the dash screen. I have an Aux. switch option. I can have them Latched. Momentary. Manual On. or Ignition. The dealer also programmed the add on in the computer system, so it shows up in the VIN number.
Yes, the dealer-sold/installed/customer installed MOPAR aux switches integrate like the factory switches, but aside from the differences in which switch has which fuse associated with it, the dealer-installed also won't have the other two internal wires - the bat and acc wires fused at 10 amps each.
They add the sales code to the VIN so that in the event of a PCM or BCM flash in the future, the settings won't disappear and go back to "no switches".

I have yet to run all of my snow plow wiring in the new Mojave, but the plan is to power the control via the aux switch ACC wire they supply. Save me tapping into anything else.
 

gatorboy

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Yes, the dealer-sold/installed/customer installed MOPAR aux switches integrate like the factory switches, but aside from the differences in which switch has which fuse associated with it, the dealer-installed also won't have the other two internal wires - the bat and acc wires fused at 10 amps each.
They add the sales code to the VIN so that in the event of a PCM or BCM flash in the future, the settings won't disappear and go back to "no switches".

I have yet to run all of my snow plow wiring in the new Mojave, but the plan is to power the control via the aux switch ACC wire they supply. Save me tapping into anything else.
This is from under my Mojave hood.

Jeep Gladiator Is it possible to wire this harness to one of the AUX switches? IMG_3221
 

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All 4 aux switches actually control relays, so using an aux switch wire you are running the accessory through a relay in the PDC.



The Black Blue and White wires indicate a lighted toggle switch with the lights he bought.
I'd skip their harness, ground the lights and run power for the lights from aux 1 or 2 (those are 40 amp)
3 and 4 are 15 amp capacity.
This. Don’t use their harness at all. Positive (red) wire from lights spliced together to aux 1 or two. Negative wire to ground post or battery negative. Cut out their fuse and relay and switch. The aux switches are already relayed and fused.
 

kb5zcr

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To the original poster,
Since you want to use the factory aux switches rather than use the wireing kit that came with your lights, this should be easy.
Only use the wire that connects to each light, cut it away from the rest of the harness at the end that goes into the relay. You don't need any of the rest if you have factory aux switches.

Your factory aux switches are already connected to the battery, fused, and with a relay. So you won't need any of what came with your light kit other than the wires that actually connect to the light.
 

WILDHOBO

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To the original poster,
Since you want to use the factory aux switches rather than use the wireing kit that came with your lights, this should be easy.
Only use the wire that connects to each light, cut it away from the rest of the harness at the end that goes into the relay. You don't need any of the rest if you have factory aux switches.

Your factory aux switches are already connected to the battery, fused, and with a relay. So you won't need any of what came with your light kit other than the wires that actually connect to the light.
Why would they use two relays? Just go straight to the aux switch.
 

ShadowsPapa

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This is all that is needed..........

Jeep Gladiator Is it possible to wire this harness to one of the AUX switches? 1753286934775-kk


Assuming the leads from the lights (5) EACH have a ground and a power wire, you would run the ground from #5 together to one wire, then over to the ground stud next to the battery (on the fender)
Run the two power leads (one from each light (#5) over to the lead that goes to one of the 40 amp capacity aux switches.
So you'd take the location at 5, and turn those into one each of power and ground.
Ground to the fender stud next to the battery
Power to one of the aux switch leads (also next to the battery, taped up between battery and fender)
 

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kb5zcr

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Why would they use two relays? Just go straight to the aux switch.
I didn't say to use both relays, I said only to use the wire going from the light to the relay, and to cut it off at the relay.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I didn't say to use both relays, I said only to use the wire going from the light to the relay, and to cut it off at the relay.
And if necessary, extend it to reach the aux switch wire. It may already be long enough.......
 

WILDHOBO

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I didn't say to use both relays, I said only to use the wire going from the light to the relay, and to cut it off at the relay.
Why not cut their relay out?
 

heretic

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Side question...am I correct in recalling that there are (4) AUX feeds wires inside the cab as well as under the hood? If so are they connected to each other, like AUX 1 being the same wire just having a connection point in both places one in the cab, and the same one under the hood? So you could use that relay to run multiple items, so long as you don't overload the stated value of the circuit?
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