ShadowsPapa
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
- Threads
- 247
- Messages
- 40,514
- Reaction score
- 54,044
- Location
- Runnells, Iowa
- Vehicle(s)
- '25 JTMX, '23 JLU 4xe, '82 SX4, '73 Javelin
- Occupation
- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
- Vehicle Showcase
- 3
Problem is there's a mix of things going on here - they are not all the same, and not all the same causes.
DW is one thing, tire flat spots -a very REAL thing, are something else, then there are shimmies, wheel balance issues, defective tires and so on.
Lifts - especially over ~2" need some sort of geometry correcting and to run other than stock angles on things. It's a change in the design and geometry, throwing some parts out of parallel, leading to bowing and flexing of certain parts in the suspension and steering.
The brackets that drop the rear ends of the control arms and bring things back into parallel or at least closer to normal design parameters, IMO, are a must on a lift like some are talking about here. I personally would not go over 2" without recentering the front axle and dropping the rear of the control arms to bring them back to parallel, and move at least to the top of the caster spec (some say over that - fine if it works, each vehicle has a personality)
Anyway, back to the original thought - we've got quite a mix of symptoms and causes.
Tires are the issue for many of these, but not all.
The bigger and beefier the tire, the more problematic it's going to be, especially in colder weather. And the tougher it's going to be to control what they do.
DW is one thing, tire flat spots -a very REAL thing, are something else, then there are shimmies, wheel balance issues, defective tires and so on.
Lifts - especially over ~2" need some sort of geometry correcting and to run other than stock angles on things. It's a change in the design and geometry, throwing some parts out of parallel, leading to bowing and flexing of certain parts in the suspension and steering.
The brackets that drop the rear ends of the control arms and bring things back into parallel or at least closer to normal design parameters, IMO, are a must on a lift like some are talking about here. I personally would not go over 2" without recentering the front axle and dropping the rear of the control arms to bring them back to parallel, and move at least to the top of the caster spec (some say over that - fine if it works, each vehicle has a personality)
Anyway, back to the original thought - we've got quite a mix of symptoms and causes.
Tires are the issue for many of these, but not all.
The bigger and beefier the tire, the more problematic it's going to be, especially in colder weather. And the tougher it's going to be to control what they do.
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