Lets talk Coolant for the Ecodiesel

[Ericshere03]

I think something to consider is what does a new car do to new coolant… how much rust are in these blocks before they’re filled. What factory chemicals are washing into the cooling system …

I’d wager a bet that if PH changes a bunch over 30k miles. After a flush and fill, the next 30k miles will be much more stable …

that being said. I may do a flush sooner than expected, then extend to normal schedule

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[GladiatorPilot23]

Mopar coolant in the Jeep. Last changed in fall 2022, 30k miles. Topped off with maybe a cup of fresh coolant a few weeks ago.

New Mopar coolant straight from the bottle

Wow in 3 years and 30k miles! Check out how I did the change in this post with the extractor. It will protect you from this erosion that will occur with the low pH.

 

[23BCJT]

seeing as its hard to come by Zerex in my area north of the commie border, Ill run this OEM manufacturers OAT and Ms.90032 compatible Orange this flush. pull a test after a while, only at 12,000Km and dipped under 7.5

 

[biodiesel]

seeing as its hard to come by Zerex in my area north of the commie border, Ill run this OEM manufacturers OAT and Ms.90032 compatible Orange this flush. pull a test after a while, only at 12,000Km and dipped under 7.5

Coolant is cheap, so running Mopar coolant isn't necessarily a bad thing. You just have to drain and fill more frequently.

 

[biodiesel]

I have a petcock socket coming which will be better.

Which draincock socket did you get?

By the way, if you ever need to replace your draincock, this is the part number: 52028466AB

 

[GladiatorPilot23]

Which draincock socket did you get?

By the way, if you ever need to replace your draincock, this is the part number: 52028466AB

I used a socket but I forgot the size 17mm, 18mm 19mm I think. Once you try them one will be just right and grab it to turn with a ratchet. You open slow and once you see coolant in the clear hose. Just be easy then because it opens fast after.

 

[Twowheels19]

@GladiatorPilot23 , I’m planning to do a Zerex HD flush from OEM next week. Thank you for the link source of the Zerex. How many gallons does one need for a flush if my mechanic is using his machine? He’s closed for vacation this week and I can’t pick his brain currently but would like to take advantage of the case of 6 pricing that you’ve shared. I would attempt to do the flush but too many irons in the fire currently. Cheers

 

[biodiesel]

I used a socket but I forgot the size 17mm, 18mm 19mm I think. Once you try them one will be just right and grab it to turn with a ratchet.

The 2015 and 2020 Ram EcoDiesel use a different draincock. For those, I use a 9mm hex socket bit for the drain valve, then use a 10mm wrench to turn the 9mm hex bit.

It looks like this style of socket will work on the Gladiator:

 

[GladiatorPilot23]

The 2015 and 2020 Ram EcoDiesel use a different draincock. For those, I use a 9mm hex socket bit for the drain valve, then use a 10mm wrench to turn the 9mm hex bit.

It looks like this style of socket will work on the Gladiator:

I had one of these but I forgot exactly why the socket was easier. I think from slipping but also I think space. This with the ratchet was tight on the Gladiator I think. See which one you like.

 

[biodiesel]

The recommended Zerex coolant differs from the OEM coolant which is an OAT (Organic Acid Technology). The Zerex red or yellow is an HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) so a complete flush of the system to remove any trace of the OAT is necessary otherwise sever damage will occur.

The Zerex Yellow is an OAT coolant. You can mix it with the Mopar coolant with no problems.

 

[1945gpw]

The Zerex Yellow is an OAT coolant. You can mix it with the Mopar coolant with no problems.

Yeah I have to go back and change that.. I was looking at the wrong Zerex coolant

 

[g2020]

The Zerex Yellow is an OAT coolant. You can mix it with the Mopar coolant with no problems.

Because the OP mentioned ZEREX Yellow and Red, I decided to dive into the details on the labels. Although it doesn't matter whether I agree because I am not a diesel expert, I agree that ZEREX Yellow (specifically, ZEREX Heavy Duty Extended Life Nitrite Free Yellow 50/50 Prediluted) is the better option for the 3.0L EcoDiesel.

Even though there should not be an issue with mixing in this case, I always do a flush & fill when switching between coolant products, and always top off, if necessary, with the same coolant that is already installed.

Calls to Valvoline Global

I called Valvoline Global twice to investigate this coolant. The first representative said that part number 846437 is a P-OAT coolant and does not comply with MS-12106. The second representative said that part number 846437 is an OAT coolant and meets MS-12106. As of this writing, MS-12106 is listed on both the label and the PI Sheet. I recommend that you confirm compliance, on the label and PI Sheet, before considering this coolant.

I have not investigated other brands of (heavy-duty) coolant for Gladiator models equipped with the diesel engine.

Product Info from Valvoline website:

ZEREX HEAVY DUTY EXTENDED LIFE NITRITE FREE ANTIFREEZE COOLANT Yellow (50/50 Prediluted), part number 846437​

ZEREX HEAVY DUTY EXTENDED LIFE NITRITE FREE ANTIFREEZE COOLANT Yellow (Concentrate), part number 846439​

​

ZEREX HEAVY DUTY EXTENDED LIFE NITRITE FREE ANTIFREEZE COOLANT Red (50/50 Prediluted), part number 895622​

ZEREX HEAVY DUTY EXTENDED LIFE ANTIFREEZE COOLANT Red (Concentrate), part number ZXED1​

- A search for ZEREX 895612 (alternate part number for Red Concentrate, listed on Red 50/50 Prediluted PI Sheet) leads back to the PI Sheet for part number ZXED1, which does not list compliance with MS-12106​

1. Formulation
   1. Both Yellow and Red coolant products are formulated with OAT (Organic Acid Technology)
2. Composition
   1. Yellow 50/50 Prediluted and Red Concentrate do not contain silicates or (as not listed) decanedioic acid
   2. Yellow Concentrate and Red 50/50 Prediluted contain silicates and (as listed) decanedioic acid
   3. For full transparency: As shown in the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) docs, both Yellow 50/50 Prediluted & Yellow Concentrate contain dipotassium phosphate (7758-11-4); this chemical is frequently an indicator of a P-OAT (phosphated OAT) coolant, but the product labels and PI Sheets say "organic acid formula", "backwards compatible for OAT applications", & "incorporates organic acid technology", and these two (Yellow Heavy Duty) products meet MS-12106 (and ASTM D3306)
      1. The findings on dipotassium phosphate were the same for Red 50/50 Prediluted & Red Concentrate, but the Yellow Heavy Duty coolant is the better option
   4. All other ingredients are the same, but are listed in a different order on each label
3. Compliance
   1. Yellow 50/50 Prediluted complies with FCA/Chrysler material standard MS-12106
   2. Yellow Concentrate complies with FCA/Chrysler material standard MS-12106
   3. Red 50/50 Prediluted complies with FCA/Chrysler material standard MS-12106
   4. Red Concentrate does not comply with MS-12106
4. Other differences
   1. Front label of Red Concentrate does not say "NITRITE FREE"
   2. Part number (ZXED1) for Red Concentrate does not follow the ZEREX six-digit part number convention (see Valvoline website)

Additional Comments

With a 10-year, million-mile, make-it-right warranty (excludes off-road), ZEREX Heavy Duty ELC NF Yellow Prediluted coolant (part number 846437) appears to be an attractive option. Before switching to this coolant, I recommend doing so only out of necessity (pulling heavy loads with EcoDiesel), and considering a supplemental cooling system.

To reiterate, this ZEREX coolant may not be a cure-all for the the EcoDiesel when pulling heavy loads; a supplemental cooling system may be needed.

Update: In one of his videos, a well-known (diesel) Gladiator influencer shows his installation of 1) a digital gauge that displays exhaust gas temperature and other temps, and 2) paddle shifters. He uses the paddle shifters to manually downshift when the exhaust gas temp exceeds a certain level. This fix appears to be effective at preventing diesel overheating. Furthermore, this shows that the root cause of diesel heat build-up is (no surprise) engine lag (running in a high gear when a lower gear is required). The small hills that he conquers using the temp gauge & paddle shifters are nothing compared to climbing mountain roads while towing a trailer, but this fix shows promise. I am not mentioning the name of the influencer because some of his videos are jam-packed with advertisements.​

For models equipped with the 3.6L gasoline engine, I recommend MOPAR 68163849AC or PEAK Purple (NAP5D3). These products can also be used with the EcoDiesel, but from what what we know, a coolant that meets manufacturer specifications may need to be changed more often on diesel models equipped with just the stock radiator.

As stated in my post on PEAK Purple, and originally in other posts on this forum, coolant color is no longer relevant.

I also recommend reviewing the following (long, but informative) thread on this topic: Diesel cooling options and ideas.

As a reminder for coolant, formulated with OAT, and MS.90032 or MS-12106, are the key manufacturer specs.

 

[g2020]

It looks like this style of socket will work on the Gladiator:

This Thexton socket worked like a charm. VERY snug fit to prevent movement while being rotated. Needs to be centered & seated to ensure torque is applied to axis of rotation. Apply SILICONE spray lubricant (not WD-40) into drain and around draincock seam. Some turning back-and-forth may be required to get to open position. Socket adapter (3/8" F to 1/4" M) required unless you have a 1/4" drive ratchet. Purchase spare Radiator Draincock (MOPAR 52028466AB, verify part number) in advance, and keep large drain pan on hand, in case it breaks. Attempt to turn radiator draincock AT YOUR OWN RISK; plastic radiator draincock and/or plastic radiator drain are KNOWN TO BREAK.

After coolant has been drained and drain has been closed, confirm that draincock recedes about 1/16" inside of edge. This should mean that the internal O-ring is properly seated.

For access to radiator drain, remove Air Dam and Brush Guard (no parts to buy, links for show only). I torqued the metal fasteners for these two parts hand tight. For a clean job, use 3/8" ID plastic tubing and a leakproof drain container.

Disconnecting the lower radiator hose is much safer and slightly faster, but using the radiator drain is 1) very clean and 2) workable for someone who lives in an apartment. If you are prone to breaking stuff, just drain the coolant by disconnecting the lower radiator hose or have a cooling system service done at a shop.

At least one (complete) cooling system service, involving a flush & fill (to remove sediment & debris), is recommended before using either of the radiator-only methods mentioned above. Removing the engine block drain plugs is out of scope.

Also see my video on YouTube: Coolant Change Gladiator JT Wrangler JL 2018+, Using Radiator Drain (placed here with permission)

Attachment: Using Radiator Drain to Drain Coolant from Radiator.png

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