Lets talk manual transmission and stalling.

[5JeepsAz]

So i was out wheelin and generally speaking, i really enjoy the MT while crawling however... this time around it was a very slow technical crawl and i stalled... a lot.

I've been driving stick since i was 16 (34 now) and very limited offroad experience.

I had a hard time (4L) time keeping it at a good pace while crawling and giving it enough gas so the engine doesn't stall but then not feathering the clutch the whole time while in a climbing / low speed situation.

You guys are the experts, what am i doing wrong?

Should i just get better at crawling inclines and also feathering the clutch?

Is there.. a way for me to be in 1st gear 4 low and keeping a slow crawl without stalling / having to feather the clutch?

thanks!

Pics below from today's fun.

Nothing wrong. Next time stall less. Just remember this is a skill. You get better at it. Oh, and try leaving it in gear, not stopping to assess. Pick your line and go with it. Start in 2wd. When you get stuck, 4H. Only use 4Lo to get out, or go over, or go through, when you're serious. Cool pics. Looks like a fun day!

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[hjdca]

So i was out wheelin and generally speaking, i really enjoy the MT while crawling however... this time around it was a very slow technical crawl and i stalled... a lot.

I've been driving stick since i was 16 (34 now) and very limited offroad experience.

I had a hard time (4L) time keeping it at a good pace while crawling and giving it enough gas so the engine doesn't stall but then not feathering the clutch the whole time while in a climbing / low speed situation.

You guys are the experts, what am i doing wrong?

Should i just get better at crawling inclines and also feathering the clutch?

Is there.. a way for me to be in 1st gear 4 low and keeping a slow crawl without stalling / having to feather the clutch?

thanks!

Pics below from today's fun.

Great pics ! Thanks. 2 pointers.
1. When in low lock (4WL) first gear or reverse, rev it enough to get the clutch out fast, then, let it almost stop with the clutch out, then, lightly tap the gas pedal a few times to keep it rolling.
2. While crawling at 1 mph, if you lightly tap the gas pedal fast and barely moving it, it will give enough dribbles of gas to keep it rolling without putting in the clutch.

 

[anavrinIV]

I've stalled once I think, but I was playing around in 4L and wanted to see what it would do from a stop in 6th. the answer was not much.

My Mazdaspeed3 has a heavier clutch with a pinpoint catch - I can pretty much release the clutch in 2 stages by stopping at the bit point then completely letting off. The JT is similar so my 10 years of experience have given me a great step into this one. The shifter has a shorter throw than my TJ MT 6 did or my '95 F150, although both of those had a more progressive clutch. The 6 speed NSG270 felt like garbage compared to the JT although I had it after 115k miles and can't say how it was treated....it would not stay in reverse on its own and 1st like to pop out under heavy load too. It was both notchy and loose somehow.

So no, no problems driving my JT. I find it a very easy and pleasant manual to use

 

[firemedic2714]

I love mine, too. The clutch is the lightest I've ever experienced (so light, in fact, that it's ruined me for my 92 Trans Am) and I suspect the reason for the abysmal tow rating. IMO, the Rubicon's 4.10 gear ratio is a vast improvement over the 3.42s (IIRC) in my former 6MT JKU Sahara. I feel the need to downshift 75% less than I had to driving it.

 

[jimbom]

Disclosure: I do not claim to be an expert. After 25 years owning 4WD trucks, I've learned a lot more about crawling after just a few times out in this, my first Jeep.

Your pics clearly show that 4L was warranted. In 4L/1st gear I've found that I can crawl up fairly steep terrain and over some obstacles at idle (without touching the gas). That's in a stock Rubicon with the 33 in tires/4.1 diff/4.00 Xfer case. Idle has me at about 3/4 mph. In a Sport you'll be at a somewhat higher speed, particularly if you're running bigger tires with the stock diff.

Lots of good tips in the video below. One thing stressed is it's best you stay off the clutch pedal as much as possible. Even when you stall, be aware that you can restart without depressing the clutch (4L only) At times it's a nice feature. They demonstrate that in the video.

I had a hard time (4L) time keeping it at a good pace ...

I'm wondering what you mean by this? Did you feel you weren't going fast enough? In that case, I select whatever higher gear lets me gas it just above idle at the speed I want. If it's steep and I need more HP to combat gravity, then I keep it in a lower gear that allows me to keep the revs up in the power band.

 

[Hipbilly]

I took mine for the first "legit" mild off-roading last week, and generally agree that it will crawl as needed in 1st gear, 4L, 285s, stock Sport gears, etc., in Arkansas.
EXCEPT: I wasn't in Arkansas, I was on Pearl Pass Rd. in Crested Butte, CO. at 10,000ft.. this engine has NO 'go' up there till like 3Krpm... I didn't even get up on the ridge, as we were time constrained, I basically drove the approach and turned around. There were a few times when i stalled uphill against a bump, and had to basically smoke the clutch to get going again. Its the first time I'd have preferred to have a torque converter.
Be nice, this isn't a real "flex" photo, just a pic my brother snapped as I turned around at a fork in the road.

 

[hjdca]

I took mine for the first "legit" mild off-roading last week, and generally agree that it will crawl as needed in 1st gear, 4L, 285s, stock Sport gears, etc., in Arkansas.
EXCEPT: I wasn't in Arkansas, I was on Pearl Pass Rd. in Crested Butte, CO. at 10,000ft.. this engine has NO 'go' up there till like 3Krpm... I didn't even get up on the ridge, as we were time constrained, I basically drove the approach and turned around. There were a few times when i stalled uphill against a bump, and had to basically smoke the clutch to get going again. Its the first time I'd have preferred to have a torque converter.
Be nice, this isn't a real "flex" photo, just a pic my brother snapped as I turned around at a fork in the road.

fyi, I noticed --- with the manual transmission, if the rpms get too low and you start bucking, then, lightly tap the gas pedal very quickly over and over without pressing it. This will dribble the gas in and allow you to go slower without bucking.

 

[Hipbilly]

....lightly tap the gas pedal very quickly over and over without pressing it.

Fly-by-wire has all kinds of new gimmicks to learn... I tried this in traffic yesterday and it worked really well. Should save the 5th shock from working too hard, and some clutch life....
I need it more in reverse than in 1st, though.... THANKS!

 

[jimbom]

Should save the 5th shock from working too hard ...

Could you please explain that one?

 

[Hipbilly]

Could you please explain that one?

From what I've seen/read here, the manual transmission is the only Gladiator with the 5th (6th, i guess?) over the rear axle, in an orientation that dampen axle rotation. It would, to me, be a logical conclusion that it is only there to dampen the lurching of the drive train in first gear.
I can remember learning to drive in a '95 S-10 with a 5 speed MT, leaf springs, and shot shocks, it would lurch something fierce if you let it chug in 1st gear....

 

[anavrinIV]

From what I've seen/read here, the manual transmission is the only Gladiator with the 5th (6th, i guess?) over the rear axle, in an orientation that dampen axle rotation. It would, to me, be a logical conclusion that it is only there to dampen the lurching of the drive train in first gear.
I can remember learning to drive in a '95 S-10 with a 5 speed MT, leaf springs, and shot shocks, it would lurch something fierce if you let it chug in 1st gear....

I'm pretty sure you're making this up...My MT rubi has no additional damper.

Axle rotation is longitudinal to the truck, in line with the pinion, so a damper to counter that twist would be roughly vertical, or on an angle with a higher velocity ratio. This would also severely affect damping of the main shock absorber and create a pretty strong bias to one side. The only way to counter this would be to tune the main damper with a lower rate meaning a distinct part that would be critical to proper handling and any lift kit would make one corner have completely different characteristics than the other

 

[Hipbilly]

I'm pretty sure you're making this up...

If it's made up, it wasn't me....

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/3rd-shock-over-rear-axle.24997/

 

[Deleted member 30519]

I'm still having issues with mine backing it up into my driveway at night on a slight gravel driveway. I stall it out at least one a week. It's fustratiing

 

[anavrinIV]

If it's made up, it wasn't me....

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/3rd-shock-over-rear-axle.24997/

Interesting. I was imagining one to prevent wheel hop not axle wrap. Strange that they had enough of an issue to put it in there.

I know mine does not have this, I looked for it. I want to see what happens if someone who has one removes it

 

[jimbom]

If it's made up, it wasn't me....

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/3rd-shock-over-rear-axle.24997/

I have a manual Rubicon and no shock. Posts on that thread said it was only on Sport S, but no longer stock (or even available?) I'm real curious when and why it came and went.

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