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Looking at Campers (6spd Sport Manual)

xpcdoojk

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I think you would have a hard time finding any documented case of ticket being written or insurance denied for towing over the limit by a couple thousand pounds especially where there are JTs rated to tow more than the amount in question with a different transmission. Seen it mentioned many times on different forums but never any proof.
And yet everyone one of these conversations throws it out……

So many smart people who know so much….:rock:
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Mr._Bill

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Enforcement varies by state, but there have been no reports here of anyone being cited for overweight towing in a Gladiator.

Insurance is purchased to cover you in case something happens. They usually pay for stupid, but reserve the right to deny for fraud and negligence.
 

sunrise089

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If you speed and are in an accident, insurance can deny your claim for knowingly doing so. Not to mention being deemed liable for other damages and fines. Just like talking/texting/under the influence.

Willful negligence = personal liability.
Please cite a single documented instance of this happening with a fact pattern that wasn't bat-shit crazy.

That said, I'm actually really happy that this is one of the saner, on balance, Gladiator tow threads I've seen recently. OP - when your lease is up you could consider a Rubicon/Mojave - you'd get 500 more pounds of legal towing plus the 4.10 axle for associated superior towing performance. Don't give up the 6-speed without a fight :)
 

Summitsearcher

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Please cite a single documented instance of this happening with a fact pattern that wasn't bat-shit crazy.

That said, I'm actually really happy that this is one of the saner, on balance, Gladiator tow threads I've seen recently. OP - when your lease is up you could consider a Rubicon/Mojave - you'd get 500 more pounds of legal towing plus the 4.10 axle for associated superior towing performance. Don't give up the 6-speed without a fight :)
Handle your situation as you see fit. Ask any law enforcement officer or insurance agent. Speed “limits” are not suggestions, “max” tow ratings are not either. Would you tell your agent you speed and tow over mfg weight ratings? Of course not, your risk factor goes up. As a professional driver for over 35 years, I speak from experience. It takes only a second of inattentive driving to get a trailer to dance that’s improperly loaded/towed. Throw in road conditions, other drivers, weather? Not a risk I’m willing to take. I’ve seen too many avoidable deaths due to these examples. Thanks for your opinion!🙂
 

sunrise089

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As a professional driver for over 35 years, I speak from experience.
Are you though? You have 35 years experience - then cite any of that experience that supports your actual claim - that insurance is denying coverage for slight overloading situations (or for that matter for slight speeding).

Talking about insurance risk factors, risks of accidents, etc. is moving the goalposts and making a new, weaker claim. For what it's worth I fully agree that if you have an accident where you were cited for speeding your insurance rates will go up and you may even be dropped from that carrier. But that's not what you initially said - you warned if you towed overweight or even sped insurers could deny your claim and leave you personally responsible.

Let me reframe my point another way: what do you think the purpose of liability or collision insurance is at all? The vast majority of times one vehicle hits another some sort of traffic law was violated. So why aren't insurers just denying coverage left and right and avoiding all those pesky claims?
 

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Summitsearcher

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Are you though? You have 35 years experience - then cite any of that experience that supports your actual claim - that insurance is denying coverage for slight overloading situations (or for that matter for slight speeding).

Talking about insurance risk factors, risks of accidents, etc. is moving the goalposts and making a new, weaker claim. For what it's worth I fully agree that if you have an accident where you were cited for speeding your insurance rates will go up and you may even be dropped from that carrier. But that's not what you initially said - you warned if you towed overweight or even sped insurers could deny your claim and leave you personally responsible.

Let me reframe my point another way: what do you think the purpose of liability or collision insurance is at all? The vast majority of times one vehicle hits another some sort of traffic law was violated. So why aren't insurers just denying coverage left and right and avoiding all those pesky claims?
Ok let me reframe for you respectfully. You answered your own questions. Slight overloading and slight speeding is assessed in an accident when determining who’s at fault and to what degree that liability assigned to all involved. Again, set your risk.

Yes, they can and may deny your claim and or increase rates/drop coverage. Insurance companies are in business to make profit. Do you truly believe that liability and collision insurance protects you even from willful negligence involved in an accident? Look the other way?

No, nobody is going to drop you for doing it “until “ an accident proves you did. I have seen entire trailer and contents placed on a flatbed and weighed at a truck stop after an accident. I don’t speak for any insurance provider or manufacturer. Every situation is different.

Willful negligence is the type of negligence that is deliberate with the intentional disregard for others. Negligence, Gross Negligence & Willful, Wanton Conduct Negligence is caused by the failure to use reasonable care and comes in various degrees.
 
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To be sure, you need to get a Sport or Sport S with Max tow, Rubicon , Mojave, or Overland automatic if you plan on towing heavier loads.

The sport/s without max tow is rated at 4,500 lbs, with regular tow package, not much more than yours. The Sport (S) gets 7650 with Max Tow, automatic Rubicon gets 7000 with the tow package, Overland and Mojave automatic gets 6k, Rubicon and Mojave manual get 4500, other manuals get 4k. Also pay attention to GCWR. Mine on my manual Rubi is 10k, but other trims get more or less. I don't have the combination weight numbers handy for all trims, but you should look into that as well if you plan on carrying payload while towing.

Also, I don't know how much of a camper you're looking for, but check these out. They have a few that are well within the limit of your current ride.

https://www.scamptrailers.com/
Thanks for the link. I've just started the search for a camper, funnily enough me and the Mrs. were discussing this in the Jeep on Sunday and she's also looking at full on (used, I don't want another mortgage!) RVs.

If I do swap it'll likely be a sport/sport s, hard top with Max tow and the winter comfort package (OMG the heated steering wheel is worth the sticker price alone)
 

Labswine

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If I do swap it'll likely be a sport/sport s, hard top with Max tow and the winter comfort package (OMG the heated steering wheel is worth the sticker price alone)
+1,000,000 on the winter package!!! I have that and absolutely LOVE it, especially with a nearly constant sore lower back. Turn on the heat on low (any time of the year) and MMMMMMmmmmm pain goes away.
 

tabrods

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0% safety cushion just in case of unforseen circumstances. Lots of people tow at or over recommended weight with no consequences but do you want to be the one that does have consequences? Before someone jumps on me I have towed an Rpod cross country now for four years behind a '17 Rubicon and had a 10% cushion and stopping fast I am glad I had that weight cushion.

Tom
 

Jt-wrx

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our rig goes down the road with 3 bodies at 380 lbs and growing every year, plus another few hundred lbs of paddleboards, bikes, groceries, and more, so my 5100 lb jeep plus 2700 lb dry trailer puts us around 7800 dry but fully loaded down the road we hit the scales at 8900+ so bank on a solid 1000-1100 lbs over and above your combined dry weight
 

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Keys Life

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Yeah, I'm not sure where the above post came from. I saw you post this initially, but I didn't want to be the first response......

But, I'd tow that trailer all day long with mine! Just throw any payload in the bed, not the trailer.

I tow "3500" pounds all the time with mine on my utility trailer with a 3500lb axle, no issue.

Note sure what these guys are going on about with 6000 ha.
I pretty much have the same weight trailer and when I travel we carry only 1/3 tank of water, all other tanks empty. We have a 6000 lb capacity on the truck and the trailer running around 5K with very little on board. We just got back from a 5200 mile trip from Key West to Denver CO, Montrose CO and back. The Gladiator did fine on the flat roads and pulled the camper through the mountain passes without any issues. Two things you will need one, is a weight distribution hitch we have the Blue OX track Pro with sliding bars. It is amazing and keeps the truck level. The second thing is a brake controller. Mopar sells one that the dealer can install and it works great. So, for now the Gladiator is going to be our tow vehicle however, we are planning on trading our other car for a larger TV. This way we can take what we want with us and not worry about going over the weight. We are keeping the Gladiator of course. We also have a county landfill and they will weigh the rig for free. That is the only way you really know how much your rig weighs. There is so much to take in regarding weight limits and safety you may want to do some research on the the different weight limitations before you buy. You have GVWR, Tongue weight and, GCWR to consider. For my Overland the GCWR is 11,100 and, you don't want to exceed that weight. Might be better to look at smaller trailer. Just my two cents.

We had over 100 degree temperatures in Texas and the low 80s through the mountains. We monitored all the gauges (Off Road Pages) and temperatures were within the limits. So, yes the truck will likely pull the trailer, the problem is you can't put much of anything in the camper and that gets old fast. It also depends on where you are camping. If you camp where they have hook ups, you can drain the blackwater and grey water each night before you go. So, that helps as well. Where had the majority of our issues was dealing with the wind on the open plains. In some cases we could not go over 45 miles per hour due to the wind. I can get scary fast if you get caught in a cross wind. Oh and I forgot to mention we averaged 11 MPG and had to stop for gas every 150 miles to play it safe.

Hope this was helpful.
 

flsupraguy

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I pretty much have the same weight trailer and when I travel we carry only 1/3 tank of water, all other tanks empty. We have a 6000 lb capacity on the truck and the trailer running around 5K with very little on board. We just got back from a 5200 mile trip from Key West to Denver CO, Montrose CO and back. The Gladiator did fine on the flat roads and pulled the camper through the mountain passes without any issues. Two things you will need one, is a weight distribution hitch we have the Blue OX track Pro with sliding bars. It is amazing and keeps the truck level. The second thing is a brake controller. Mopar sells one that the dealer can install and it works great. So, for now the Gladiator is going to be our tow vehicle however, we are planning on trading our other car for a larger TV. This way we can take what we want with us and not worry about going over the weight. We are keeping the Gladiator of course. We also have a county landfill and they will weigh the rig for free. That is the only way you really know how much your rig weighs. There is so much to take in regarding weight limits and safety you may want to do some research on the the different weight limitations before you buy. You have GVWR, Tongue weight and, GCWR to consider. For my Overland the GCWR is 11,100 and, you don't want to exceed that weight. Might be better to look at smaller trailer. Just my two cents.

We had over 100 degree temperatures in Texas and the low 80s through the mountains. We monitored all the gauges (Off Road Pages) and temperatures were within the limits. So, yes the truck will likely pull the trailer, the problem is you can't put much of anything in the camper and that gets old fast. It also depends on where you are camping. If you camp where they have hook ups, you can drain the blackwater and grey water each night before you go. So, that helps as well. Where had the majority of our issues was dealing with the wind on the open plains. In some cases we could not go over 45 miles per hour due to the wind. I can get scary fast if you get caught in a cross wind. Oh and I forgot to mention we averaged 11 MPG and had to stop for gas every 150 miles to play it safe.

Hope this was helpful.
Manual trans?
 

Gren71

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food for thought I have the max tow and pull this happily

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/wolf-pup/18TO/2845

There are also a couple versions that are set up similar to the one you first linked in the thread

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/wolf-pup/16PF/4354


I havent read the whole thread but Ill add that putting the air lift bags in, no matter what your pulling, will make you happy as a clam,. Theyre SIMPLE to put in and easy to inflate with a bike air pump. They changed the feel of the camper behind my JT.


Also if you need a break controller, Id suggest the curt echo. No wires and works flawlessly.
 

Lakelife36

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You are right of course that the clutch doesn't care if it's in a trailer or the truck bed, and trailer is much more efficent (hence why I have several different sized utility trailers, and usually use one before loading down a truck bed, even with my F350.

But if you are talking about towing a 4000lb trailer, and have 500 extra pounds of gear as the OP said in his example, throwing it in the bed keeps the trailer at the "rated" limit from FCA, and if that's all you are carrying in the truck, it's still legal too.

Now if any of this "legal" matters when it comes to tow rating, I've read it argued both ways for years, and even heard it varies by state. I won't get in to that aspect of it. Like others have said, it's not on the door sticker.

I'd tow the trailer personally, and not think twice about it. After all, just like you said, every other component on the truck is more than capable.

I live in NC though, not the Rockies. No idea where the OP lives.
Agreed the clutch shouldn't really care where the weight is. @timberwolf0122 if you're considering moving weight around to keep the trailer weight down then you still need to make sure you're not (well) over both GVWR and GCWR - those are what the clutch will worry about. You can optimize to an extent, but there's no free lunch when towing.

I'm in the same boat here looking at a manual Mojave and smallish trailers that I can tow with it, with my growing family inside. The trailers get really heavy really fast.
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