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DAVECS1

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My guess Kurt is you will still want my transmission tune as oems seem to be shying away from that part. It is a pain, but man once you nail it. The difference it makes in how you lay the power down!
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KurtP

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My guess Kurt is you will still want my transmission tune as oems seem to be shying away from that part. It is a pain, but man once you nail it. The difference it makes in how you lay the power down!
My plan at present is to get the edelbrock kit up and running as stock to drive it a bit and validate it. Then we’ll sort out tuning from there. The 1320 is smaller, but given the same manifold pressure and blower design i dont think its going to be radically different from what youre doing now. Edebrock had to leave a lot on the table to pass CARB.

Looking forward to seeing what you can get out of it, especially with modified ram trans tuning. Well done.
 

DAVECS1

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NEW RELEASE
*As usual and always, no warranty, or product support is implied from me offering these files.
*To note if you have a Magnuson warranty chances are they may not honor it if you use my stuff

With all that out of the way. This is my hobby and I like doing it as such. So I will help especially if yo have data. There may be delays as I am a husband, dad, and have a job. Also I like to do this when it is fun and I am in a good mood and not stressed. So. I think if you ask around I am decently responsive.

I am super happy with this file. I will be driving on it for a long while. It is what I always wanted when I bought my SC. Basically a hemi swap in a box without the hemi. I would say this as close as it gets. I have pulled off the Ram trans merge. I showed my logs to a friend in the know and he has stated I am well inside the safety factor of the transmission. He did not see a problem with the lower engine speeds but I honestly did not remember what my truck ran stock and I was not gonna send him on another goose chase for me. It seems happy and clean running so I am going with it.

I can finally leave a light or accelerate out of a corner without having to manipulate the pedal like some 90s dance move. You can drive normal and command power when you want.

I hope you all are as happy as I am when you try it. As always really appreciate any data back.

Couple things.
1. Made file for the Manual guys
2. If you need instructions on copying the tune to your truck read file, I have crib notes I can share if you PM me. I am not going to post them as it shows a bunch of representative tables and such that can be misconstrued.
 

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Dang DAVECS1, you have been busy! Great seeing you getting the tune dialed in and still helping like you have been. Hope these guys realize the benefit you are providing them, I know some are. I appreciated all the help you gave me that's for darn sure.
Now I just wish someone would buy my Magnuson, basically it is $1000 less than the tuner price on the site and I only had it on for 6 months. With your tune this would be awesome!
 

DAVECS1

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Dang DAVECS1, you have been busy! Great seeing you getting the tune dialed in and still helping like you have been. Hope these guys realize the benefit you are providing them, I know some are. I appreciated all the help you gave me that's for darn sure.
Now I just wish someone would buy my Magnuson, basically it is $1000 less than the tuner price on the site and I only had it on for 6 months. With your tune this would be awesome!
Agreed your stuff and this tune would be a killer deal. I feel bad for you cause I think I nailed what you where always looking for, just a bit too late?
 

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KurtP

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Edelbrock kit arrived. And ended up going right back.

After talking more with a couple more tuners, a couple fabricators, etc- the 1320 just wasnt going to get me where I want to be.

Local shop to me getting me a Magnuson. Im having a couple pieces fabricated to fit the kit to my needs.
 

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My coworker used to work at Eaton designing the TVS systems. when I told him about the Magnuson kit he said they really should have used the TVS1600 instead of the 1900. It’s the perfect sweet spot for the 3.6. He also said the 19 is better than 1320 when you look at compressor maps relative to boost and RPM.
 

KurtP

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Looks like livernois is revving to 6800-7000?

Ive been surprised this engine only revs to 6.5. Seems like it would do well to 7k
 

DAVECS1

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The engine is capable of peak torque at really low RPM due to the throttle and torqur model with VVT. Using the higher RPM range can wear it out faster as far as duty cycle is concerned. Whatthat means in terms of time, I have not been given details. On my calibrations I am working on the poer in the mid to lower RPM range with driveability. This will make it tow better, get around town better. Hold gears on the highway, and great for trails. Unfortunately the max hp is less and it is not fast, but quick. I am currently working on a comprimise to this. But the throttle control is so temperamental it is maddening.
 

KurtP

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The engine is capable of peak torque at really low RPM due to the throttle and torqur model with VVT. Using the higher RPM range can wear it out faster as far as duty cycle is concerned. Whatthat means in terms of time, I have not been given details. On my calibrations I am working on the poer in the mid to lower RPM range with driveability. This will make it tow better, get around town better. Hold gears on the highway, and great for trails. Unfortunately the max hp is less and it is not fast, but quick. I am currently working on a comprimise to this. But the throttle control is so temperamental it is maddening.
Youve mentioned before that the throttle control is something that’s been difficult to figure out. Is there something with throttle control/cam phasing relationship thats locking you into a “this way or that way”? I would think it would be possible to alter the cam phasing throughout the rev range based on throttle req or load, so that it just ‘pulled’ everywhere...but it sounds like (?) youre saying its locking you into a curve thats either ideal for the low end or the high? Or do you mean you’re just focusing on fixing the drivability more than cranking out power?

Your efforts in those areas seems to be where the Magnuson tune needed the most help, and being able to drive it the way you’re saying you do is fantastic.

Keep up the good work bud. ?
 
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Heres a solution as to where to relocate the noisy Purge Valve that Magnuson has you relocate behind the blower and Firewall. That is a terrible area because this valve is noisy by nature so it makes it sound like you have a Woodpecker tapping on your firewall at idle. We passed the info on to Magnuson, I would assume they will address this.

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Hi, in full disclosure I’m running the Magnuson on a JLUR, hope my engagement here in the Gladiator forum is kosher. I’m hoping to figure out if the purge valve is the culprit for the tick-tick-tick noise I hear at idle , and that speeds up as revs climb. At speed, I don’t really hear it.
 

KurtP

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Hi, in full disclosure I’m running the Magnuson on a JLUR, hope my engagement here in the Gladiator forum is kosher. I’m hoping to figure out if the purge valve is the culprit for the tick-tick-tick noise I hear at idle , and that speeds up as revs climb. At speed, I don’t really hear it.
You’re always welcome here. ?
 

DAVECS1

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There are two sounds. The purge valve sounds like a wood pecker. There is a tic sound that comes from the gear lash in the housing and is amplified by the no- name bearings in the idler. I replaced them with timkins and they are better. I will post a picture of the boxes later this week. Sorry for the spelling. I am on vacation lol
 
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KurtP

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There are two sounds. The pirge valve sounds like a wood pecker. The is a tic sound that comes from the gear lash in the houaong and is amplified by the no name bearings in the idler. i replaced them with timkins and they are vetter I will post a picture of the boxes later this week
Another thing added to my list...:sigh.
 

mike921921

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There are two sounds. The purge valve sounds like a wood pecker. There is a tic sound that comes from the gear lash in the housing and is amplified by the no- name bearings in the idler. I replaced them with timkins and they are better. I will post a picture of the boxes later this week. Sorry for the spelling. I am on vacation lol
Did you swap/plan to swap any other parts in the kit besides the bearings?
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