Mojave swaybar vs antirock stiffness

[Volt0]

I’ve read some posts about the Mojave swaybar being hollow, and thus being a little more flexible than a connected-Rubi. And then there are also posts/vids about the Antirock swaybar allowing almost the same articulation as being disconnected. So, if you have a Mojave, would there be much of a difference, if any, between the OEM swaybar vs the Antirock?

edit: for reference, I’m looking at the .850” bar

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[Rahkmalla]

the mojave swaybar is hollow and does allow more flex than the rubicon swaybar. It's a function of need. the rubicon swaybar has no need to be softer because it can be disconnected. The mojave doesn't have this option so a softer (more compromised) bar is required.

That being said, an anti-rock is still going to be even softer yet, to a very noticeable degree. However i wasn't mincing words when I said the softer swaybar of the mojave was a compromise. The anti-rock is a compromised solution as well.

Personally, i'm not a believer in anti-rock sway bars. They accomplish less than a full disconnect while also making your on-road manners worse. I simply cannot theorycraft a situation where an anti-rock would be better than a disconnect.

For my money, I'd rather have apex autolynx

And to put my money where my mouth is: i do have apex autolynx

 

[Bulldog4xfour]

The Front anti rock sway bar doesn't fit the mojave unless you relocate the shock reservoirs. I personaly like oem location of the reservoirs, so I decided against the anti rock. If you can find a rubicon say bar they mount right up no problem, and they make manuel disconnets for them.

 

[Volt0]

That being said, an anti-rock is still going to be even softer yet, to a very noticeable degree.

For my money, I'd rather have apex autolynx

I like the Apex autolynx as well, but how does a consumer know what the torsion/resistance is for an OEM ( or aftermarket) swaybar? Anti-rock has several options for the JT, one softer and one stronger ( heavy duty for overland builds? ). How would you know, before purchase, that one or the other would be firmer or softer? What’s the unit of measure?

 

[Volt0]

The Front anti rock sway bar doesn't fit the mojave unless you relocate the shock reservoirs.

Yip, got that; no biggie; I’ve seen some mounting options that put it vertical against the frame. Saw a U-tuber that did a vid on that to his pippy build, and had to do a touch of grinding. Even still, it’s not clear to me, how much stiffer/softer each one is. Thickness, solid -vs- hollow, … doesn’t really mean anything without including all of the variables ( metal content, treatments, shape, leverage, and more)

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

the mojave swaybar is hollow and does allow more flex than the rubicon swaybar. It's a function of need. the rubicon swaybar has no need to be softer because it can be disconnected. The mojave doesn't have this option so a softer (more compromised) bar is required.

That being said, an anti-rock is still going to be even softer yet, to a very noticeable degree. However i wasn't mincing words when I said the softer swaybar of the mojave was a compromise. The anti-rock is a compromised solution as well.

Personally, i'm not a believer in anti-rock sway bars. They accomplish less than a full disconnect while also making your on-road manners worse. I simply cannot theorycraft a situation where an anti-rock would be better than a disconnect.

For my money, I'd rather have apex autolynx

And to put my money where my mouth is: i do have apex autolynx

I normally agree with you, but I’m on the other side this time.

The Antirock is all about controlled articulation. Keeping the body more level and over the tires so you get weight on them and good traction. And also more comfortable for the driver with the body not leaning as much. You don’t get that with being entirely disconnected.

The success of Currie’s and others running sway bars in competition rigs seems to support this.

I think the ideal setup for a wheeler/street driver is a dual rate bar with a stiff bar for the street and a soft bar for off road.

 

[Volt0]

Renamed the thread in an effort to solicit feedback that’s germane to the question.

 

[RacerAV]

Old thread yeah yeah... I really wanna know about the end result here!

I've got my '23 Mojave, a 2" spring lift via some Synergy springs, shock relocation brackets, and Apex Autolynx (the shorter versions) set up, been okay, but I'm still considering the Antirocks (with the Autolynx still)...

 

[Volt0]

I went with the apex autolynx, and have been quite happy with them; it’s easy enough that I now disconnect/reconnect more frequently.

 

[Volt0]

I still don’t know how those swaybars are measured, I’m guessing in units of torsion resistance?

 

[RacerAV]

I went with the apex autolynx, and have been quite happy with them; it’s easy enough that I now disconnect/reconnect more frequently.

I THOUGHT I'd love them... but this weekend out in the desert, I figured out the new clunk sound... it was the Autolynx acting like little bump stops! I don't think they WERE actually acting as bumpstops for the record, but when they were unlocked, and I was hitting bumps, when they opened and closed, they'd "clunk" when they closed all the way and (I assume) move the sway bar upward. I really didn't like it. Ended up just locking them up and not using them. I have a 2" spring lift via Synergy coils, then factory everything else with shock extensions, and 2" of bumpstop all around. I messaged Apex about it, and they asked for pictures. Nothing further yet... keep you posted.

 

[Zachanadandy]

the mojave swaybar is hollow and does allow more flex than the rubicon swaybar. It's a function of need. the rubicon swaybar has no need to be softer because it can be disconnected. The mojave doesn't have this option so a softer (more compromised) bar is required.

That being said, an anti-rock is still going to be even softer yet, to a very noticeable degree. However i wasn't mincing words when I said the softer swaybar of the mojave was a compromise. The anti-rock is a compromised solution as well.

Personally, i'm not a believer in anti-rock sway bars. They accomplish less than a full disconnect while also making your on-road manners worse. I simply cannot theorycraft a situation where an anti-rock would be better than a disconnect.

For my money, I'd rather have apex autolynx

And to put my money where my mouth is: i do have apex autolynx

Trails/ dirt at speed (kinda the market for the mojave in the 1st place) get sketchy in the turns disconnected. In that situation I would definitely argue that the antirock is better than being disconnected. Certainly not an issue in a Rubicon as you can connect and disconnect 100 times per trail without leaving the drivers seat. I didn't see the cost worth it on my mojave and run simple $100 metalcloak disconnects. We have a JLUR if we want to go rock crawling. I don't disconnect the mojave in the desert, and have only used the disconnects a few times on rocky trails. Even the autolynx are overpriced for my use.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

I just ordered the HD 1" front antirock for my diesel Rubicon. I'm already running their HD 1-1/8" rear antirock.

Reasons for the rear antirock were a rack/tent/high mounted 40" spare/bed drawers, triangulated rear end benefitting from a bit more resistance to roll, and getting the sway bar off the axle.

Problem is with the front disconnected the rear really does the driving now. It's very unbalanced. Connected in the front isn't too bad, but then in that case I've got a system that hangs down, takes up room, and adds complexity that I don't need.

So I'm going to try out the HD antirock in the front and see how balanced it is with my current setup. And at the least I'll get that 4" or so of ground clearance in the front. I won't chop the frame horns until I've decided if I'm keeping the antirock or not. Easy enough to change my mind and revert to the oem disco system.

 

[Gizmo]

You will like the anti rock. The thing is when you have one tire hanging or barely touching the ground it isn't doing much of anything to keep you moving forward traction wise when disconnected. With anti-rock the same tire dangling is transferring weight ( down force ) to the compressed suspension side that has traction by way of the sway bar. Its a bit of a compromise on the road but ya also get much less body rocking back and forth when you make a turn at an intersection. I always ran them on my TJ’s. Ya get used to a little body lean on the road but a much more controlled feeling off road compared to disconnected.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Anti-Rock fan boy here too. Love those things. Got the billet one up front but still
Need to do the rear. I figure with the triangulated 4 link and antirock out back it’ll be a way different drive. Antirock does stay flexy when on road but it’s nothing you can’t get used to. Drive it like a Jeep and not a Ferrari and should be ok. I like the shoulder lean anyway.

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