MOPAR Lift $2k Now?

[Camaroboi13]

Where in SoCal? I live in the region

There’s a lady on OfferUp, she’s in Upland. She has one 3.6 version and one 3.0 version left. She has several for the wranglers too.
Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/uBlSgg13Rtb

Sponsored

 

[Teqsand]

https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-3-5-true-dual-rate-lift-kit.html

All in with 10% off under $2000 even with lower isolators. The install is a bit of a pain but the flex is unreal. Rides like stock but without any bottoming out.

Hate when you can't really tell if the pic is what you get ot not... why be deceptive

 

[Teqsand]

Crazy... they're still $1280 from my local source, they just won't ship them. Out of southern california

Wheew in SoCal are they?

 

[Tommyd]

More for your money here:

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-25-ride-right-lift-kit-2020-jt-1

This is what I went with just add bump stops for off-roading.

 

[Tommyd]

It used to be 1300$ crazy.

 

[Gvsukids]

I was originally going with 35’s and would have done the same lift. I’ve seen JT’s with that lift on 35’s and it looks totally normal.

I actually like that I could go down to 35’s in the winter and change nothing.

Did you add adjustable control arms?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Did you add adjustable control arms?

Not in the front. I started with yeti Steersmarts gear in front to keep geometry good, and added Fixed JKS LCA’s in front. It works quite well. My rear is now lifted more (4.5ish) with different springs for towing and hauling, and I’ve also since replaced my rear control arms with JKS adjustables. I also replaced my drive shaft. But none of that is necessary at all with the straight JKS springs from this lift all around. Stock drive shaft and control arms in the rear are fine. I took mine further as a second phase, but I was going for a very specific use case of towing and doing serious rock crawling.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Hate when you can't really tell if the pic is what you get ot not... why be deceptive

They list everything you get. The only reccomended addition is lower spring isolators.

It comes with new rear brake lines, coil springs, spacer/upper isolators all 4 bump stops, track bars, upper front control arms, rocksport shocks with outboard shock mounts, sway bar disconnects for the front and longer rear sway bar end links.

Have it on my diesel with 38's and its amazing.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Wheew in SoCal are they?

They’re in Upland, link is a few posts up.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I wouldn't give $500 for it.....Just not what I want and the kit is so incomplete!

 

[Robtco99]

It shows $2088 sale with $2095 full price on Mopar wholesale direct. Unreal.....Clayton or bust

 

[Geoarch]

Raised mine 2⅜"

Mine is about that after settling. Installed in August (see Avatar). Paid 1400 in June.

 

[OHJeeper]

This may be slightly off-topic, but since the title is the MOPAR lift, I wanted to add a little piece of advice I recently discovered after having mine on for 9000 miles.

The spring isolators for the front are practically identical. Both are black and when you put them side by side and even change the rotation to match each other it's very hard to see the difference.

Well, there is... because the springs are essentially "wound" the same direction, the ones on the passenger terminate to the front while the driver's side terminate to the rear. This means that when the first "row" of the coil gets to the front on the drivers side, it needs more "underneath" to keep it from sagging forward (I hope this makes sense).

Look at these pics. The first one is having the WRONG isolator installed on the driver's side. Look how close the spring is to the spring perch in the front:

What you can't see, is the the spring is bowing forward because of this... but here it is:

I have no idea how I drove it this long and didn't notice... a real head-smacker. Anyway, THIS is the correct isolator:

I didn't take a sideways pic of the bow, but it's 100% straight now. Notice the extra spacing between the coil and the perch now. It's maybe 1/2" but makes all the difference.

Anyway... pro tip for anyone installing the kit!

 

[Jocww]

Glad I paid for Gupton to install mine before I took delivery a year ago...

 

[Geoarch]

This may be slightly off-topic, but since the title is the MOPAR lift, I wanted to add a little piece of advice I recently discovered after having mine on for 9000 miles.

The spring isolators for the front are practically identical. Both are black and when you put them side by side and even change the rotation to match each other it's very hard to see the difference.

Well, there is... because the springs are essentially "wound" the same direction, the ones on the passenger terminate to the front while the driver's side terminate to the rear. This means that when the first "row" of the coil gets to the front on the drivers side, it needs more "underneath" to keep it from sagging forward (I hope this makes sense).

Look at these pics. The first one is having the WRONG isolator installed on the driver's side. Look how close the spring is to the spring perch in the front:

What you can't see, is the the spring is bowing forward because of this... but here it is:

I have no idea how I drove it this long and didn't notice... a real head-smacker. Anyway, THIS is the correct isolator:

I didn't take a sideways pic of the bow, but it's 100% straight now. Notice the extra spacing between the coil and the perch now. It's maybe 1/2" but makes all the difference.

Anyway... pro tip for anyone installing the kit!

Yeah, each side is supposed to bow outward. I think that's what it says in the instruction sheet. At least you found out before it made a difference.

Sponsored