mx5red
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Finally decided to put together a build thread. This was my first Jeep and wasn’t sure what I was aiming for, so I’ve learned and changed things along the way.
This is a daily driver with intention of driving family around and occasionally going camping, hauling family stuff on trips, and occasionally off-roading balls out.
Started as JTR with aux, Alpine, metal bumpers.
As of now, Clayton 2.5” springs, HD in rear, Mojave take-off shocks, 37” Coopers on Teraflex Nomads.
list of mods:
Interior
Sill protectors, RR & quadratec
Rubber mats (would do armorlite if starting over)
Console organizer - very useful as DD
Grab bar phone mount - DIY but now would do Bulletpoint $25 vs CMM $40
Ram x-grip phone mount
Ram Tough-Track dash base
Etsy baofeng UV-5R radio clip
Amazon iPad mini mount
67 designs arms btw are ~$ as ram arms and seem nicer/more adjustable
I started with ram phone mount, like it, not as expensive as others. Pick your poison with Ram, 67D, Bulletpoint as far as dash bases and mounts. Watch 20mm vs 1” ram balls.
also considered proclip mount, Tackform seat bolt mount, CMM A pillar mount. Btw their Universal mount is pretty slick for mounting phone/gun on transmission tunnel.
I haven’t tried a wireless CarPlay device such as Carlinkit but ideally I would have magnetic phone mount with wireless charging and reliable CarPlay integration, just to be easier and less wear on charging port.
Tazer - love option of disconnecting sway bar with hot key, and the rear camera showing on the screen with turn signal.
Audio:
Phew, what a mess!. I like the 8.4 but I’d probably skip Alpine radio so it’s easier to do aftermarket stereo/speakers.
Put in Infinity dash, knee, and roll bar speakers, them AudioControl amps and Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 DSP.
Built under driver seat sub. I routinely have kids in rear seats and use rear storage so didn’t do rear seat subwoofer which would’ve been easier and sound better.
Electrical:
Added quadratec 12V adapter, and wired fuse taps F57, F58 into cab to power future devices, such as radio, seat heaters, etc.
Recovery:
STEALTH Smittybilt H2O 12k winch mount
One of my favorite mods. Covered by flip up license plate mount (forget brand, maybe RR)
Manual cutoff switch for battery power which runs winch, and Anderson connectors which hook up to the Smittybilt compressor so I don’t have to use battery clamps.
Smittybilt 2781 compressor with Anderson disconnects and high flow fittings/hose and Jaco L2 chucks
Replaced Smittybilt winch hook with Smittybilt winch hook?
cheap Amazon soft shackles, snatch block, OVS rope snatch block, tree saver, snatch strap - because what better place to save money on, than safety?
DIY Element50 mount on driver roll bar
Exterior:
TNT Customs Expedition Rock Sliders
Bestop Sunrider - tbh rarely open but like the option.
Bak revolver x4 bed cover - like the integrated rails
DIY bed rack from 80/20 with slide-out rails, an extrusion overland knockoff. Shortened it from 23 to 18.5”.
Cheaper/lower versions may be worth it, but mine probably wasn’t. I don’t like the look but especially with a new dog, a bed cap such as RSI or ARE may be in my future.
Plus, I would’ve bought a fridge already but not many fit under a tonneau.
I have also used Yakima cross bars with ski racks, and bike mounts. That was pretty useful for me before, but I thought @DrJ had a better setup with a retractable tonneau.
Skids:
RH control arm skids. Rears useful, fronts barely touched and clunked when not tight enough, would weld on cheaper front LCA skids instead.
Clayton FAD skid didn’t play nice with RH control arm skid and had to be ground down to fit.
Rancho front diff cover and skid
ARB rear diff cover
Racho rear diff skid mod to fit ARB
Rear shock skids not used because they don’t fit with shock extension brackets.
ASFIR oil pan skid - I consider vital!
fumoto valve, makes oil change so easy!
Warfab Abrams hitch skid - AJK Off-road picked up production now. Great skid
Rustys frame LCA skids - fitment issues for me/some, now would go RH.
TNT Customs rock sliders - frame mounted, pretty sturdy, love the look, not many similar looking. VERY difficult install, also have slightly bent them dropping onto boulders. Would probably look at metal cloak or Rock Hard angled down steps as bulletproof options if starting over.
Lift/Suspension:
Started with AEV 2” spacer lift with AEV geometry correction brackets. Pretty happy with it, when I added weight the stock springs sagged and especially the Rubicon shocks were just way too soft. But you can wheel the Rubicon Trail with this lift so don’t think you need a super $$ lift to go off-road.
Heavier springs replaced the lift height, and Mojave take-off shocks transformed the ride. I imagine a good cheap firm shock like bilstein 5100 would do great. I don’t believe you need adj CA if sticking to 2-3” of lift, though that offers more flex and adjustability, but fixed arms are easier.
now sitting on Clayton 2.5” front, 2.5” HD rear springs. Mojave shocks with original AEV spacer lift shock extensions, cheap sleeve bearings for bigger shock bolt hole instead of drilling out shock mount. Rides great. If shocks go bad would replace with bilstein 5160 reservoir shocks in correct length for lift, perhaps what comes with 2024 OEM lift.
Replacing Mojave shocks/extensions with longer shocks would give me more wheel travel, though I haven’t really felt limited by that so far??
FYI I believe the AEV lift rear sway links are not long enough, people have ripped the link out of the frame mount.
Added Metalcloak sway bar reinforcement brackets.
Rock Krawler Pro-X rear cradle 4-Link kit. It helped reduce sway/bobbing when going over bumps and turning into angled driveways. May make sense financially if you’re going to get adjustable control arms, rear track bar (MC, Clayton) to fit 37s, control arm extension brackets (teraflex, RockJock) to improve articulation/droop, since this accomplishes all those things.
Wasn’t super fun to install though!
I probably could’ve made do with just a track bar.
Metalcloak durospring bump stops
Maybe helped? Not sure
ICON front sway links - think they make a good budget version of Rock Kralwer’s no limit links for the Rubicon for added articulation… they are like half the size but also half the cost.
FYI most aftermarket links make you drill out your sway bar so you can fit 1/2” bolts, but that’s pretty easy.
Clayton steering stabilizer relocation bracket with AEV/bilstein damper.
Rock Krawler track bar (early design, did not have much curve and hit SS)
Swapped to Metalcloak track bar
Lighting:
Installed before winch, of course
Baja Design squadron pro ambers - love these for off road, but spilled too much light
when used as fog lights. Moved to a-pillar and rarely used now.
Diode Dynamics SS3 max yellow fog lights - sharp cutoff, works great as fogs. Prefer Baja Designs color though
Baja Designs LP6 - super bright!
Oracle rock lights - trash! overpriced
Full disclosure I attempted a knockoff DIY Gatekeeper Off-road steering knuckle light mount but it didn’t work.. still may try the Gatekeeper ones as steerable driving lights.
Bed light install with LED strips.
Wheels\tires:
The stock Falken A/T are great tires!
Bought some rough, used 37” Goodyear MT/R to try, they could not be balanced.
Bought 37”cooper STT Pros and have been happy with them off-road. They are noisy! I switch back to OEM Falken 33s for winter or towing.
If I had a longer commute or didn’t switch winter tires I’d definitely do A/T like a Mickey Baja Boss or larger Falkens, don’t think there’s any downside unless you’re doing thick mud like in the SouthEast and truly need a mud terrain.
I like the Teraflex Nomads. Deflate quickly, but I need a 3D printed wrench to help get the caps off.
I have had to clean the valves so they set to correct pressure but I think the used Goodyears were the culprit.
Btw you have to be careful which lug nuts you use, whether correct seat angle, diameter, etc. The stock lug nuts are too large diameter for Nomads so I replaced.
Future mods:
Teraflex Crankcase vent - poured out white smoke climbing at Rowher, think this is better fix than catch cans.
Bed topper?
Fridge?
When ball joints go bad, perhaps Reid knuckles, Dynatrac/Metalcloak ball joints, RCVs?
This is a daily driver with intention of driving family around and occasionally going camping, hauling family stuff on trips, and occasionally off-roading balls out.
Started as JTR with aux, Alpine, metal bumpers.
As of now, Clayton 2.5” springs, HD in rear, Mojave take-off shocks, 37” Coopers on Teraflex Nomads.
list of mods:
Interior
Sill protectors, RR & quadratec
Rubber mats (would do armorlite if starting over)
Console organizer - very useful as DD
Grab bar phone mount - DIY but now would do Bulletpoint $25 vs CMM $40
Ram x-grip phone mount
Ram Tough-Track dash base
Etsy baofeng UV-5R radio clip
Amazon iPad mini mount
67 designs arms btw are ~$ as ram arms and seem nicer/more adjustable
I started with ram phone mount, like it, not as expensive as others. Pick your poison with Ram, 67D, Bulletpoint as far as dash bases and mounts. Watch 20mm vs 1” ram balls.
also considered proclip mount, Tackform seat bolt mount, CMM A pillar mount. Btw their Universal mount is pretty slick for mounting phone/gun on transmission tunnel.
I haven’t tried a wireless CarPlay device such as Carlinkit but ideally I would have magnetic phone mount with wireless charging and reliable CarPlay integration, just to be easier and less wear on charging port.
Tazer - love option of disconnecting sway bar with hot key, and the rear camera showing on the screen with turn signal.
Audio:
Phew, what a mess!. I like the 8.4 but I’d probably skip Alpine radio so it’s easier to do aftermarket stereo/speakers.
Put in Infinity dash, knee, and roll bar speakers, them AudioControl amps and Rockford Fosgate DSR-1 DSP.
Built under driver seat sub. I routinely have kids in rear seats and use rear storage so didn’t do rear seat subwoofer which would’ve been easier and sound better.
Electrical:
Added quadratec 12V adapter, and wired fuse taps F57, F58 into cab to power future devices, such as radio, seat heaters, etc.
Recovery:
STEALTH Smittybilt H2O 12k winch mount
One of my favorite mods. Covered by flip up license plate mount (forget brand, maybe RR)
Manual cutoff switch for battery power which runs winch, and Anderson connectors which hook up to the Smittybilt compressor so I don’t have to use battery clamps.
Smittybilt 2781 compressor with Anderson disconnects and high flow fittings/hose and Jaco L2 chucks
Replaced Smittybilt winch hook with Smittybilt winch hook?
cheap Amazon soft shackles, snatch block, OVS rope snatch block, tree saver, snatch strap - because what better place to save money on, than safety?
DIY Element50 mount on driver roll bar
Exterior:
TNT Customs Expedition Rock Sliders
Bestop Sunrider - tbh rarely open but like the option.
Bak revolver x4 bed cover - like the integrated rails
DIY bed rack from 80/20 with slide-out rails, an extrusion overland knockoff. Shortened it from 23 to 18.5”.
Cheaper/lower versions may be worth it, but mine probably wasn’t. I don’t like the look but especially with a new dog, a bed cap such as RSI or ARE may be in my future.
Plus, I would’ve bought a fridge already but not many fit under a tonneau.
I have also used Yakima cross bars with ski racks, and bike mounts. That was pretty useful for me before, but I thought @DrJ had a better setup with a retractable tonneau.
Skids:
RH control arm skids. Rears useful, fronts barely touched and clunked when not tight enough, would weld on cheaper front LCA skids instead.
Clayton FAD skid didn’t play nice with RH control arm skid and had to be ground down to fit.
Rancho front diff cover and skid
ARB rear diff cover
Racho rear diff skid mod to fit ARB
Rear shock skids not used because they don’t fit with shock extension brackets.
ASFIR oil pan skid - I consider vital!
fumoto valve, makes oil change so easy!
Warfab Abrams hitch skid - AJK Off-road picked up production now. Great skid
Rustys frame LCA skids - fitment issues for me/some, now would go RH.
TNT Customs rock sliders - frame mounted, pretty sturdy, love the look, not many similar looking. VERY difficult install, also have slightly bent them dropping onto boulders. Would probably look at metal cloak or Rock Hard angled down steps as bulletproof options if starting over.
Lift/Suspension:
Started with AEV 2” spacer lift with AEV geometry correction brackets. Pretty happy with it, when I added weight the stock springs sagged and especially the Rubicon shocks were just way too soft. But you can wheel the Rubicon Trail with this lift so don’t think you need a super $$ lift to go off-road.
Heavier springs replaced the lift height, and Mojave take-off shocks transformed the ride. I imagine a good cheap firm shock like bilstein 5100 would do great. I don’t believe you need adj CA if sticking to 2-3” of lift, though that offers more flex and adjustability, but fixed arms are easier.
now sitting on Clayton 2.5” front, 2.5” HD rear springs. Mojave shocks with original AEV spacer lift shock extensions, cheap sleeve bearings for bigger shock bolt hole instead of drilling out shock mount. Rides great. If shocks go bad would replace with bilstein 5160 reservoir shocks in correct length for lift, perhaps what comes with 2024 OEM lift.
Replacing Mojave shocks/extensions with longer shocks would give me more wheel travel, though I haven’t really felt limited by that so far??
FYI I believe the AEV lift rear sway links are not long enough, people have ripped the link out of the frame mount.
Added Metalcloak sway bar reinforcement brackets.
Rock Krawler Pro-X rear cradle 4-Link kit. It helped reduce sway/bobbing when going over bumps and turning into angled driveways. May make sense financially if you’re going to get adjustable control arms, rear track bar (MC, Clayton) to fit 37s, control arm extension brackets (teraflex, RockJock) to improve articulation/droop, since this accomplishes all those things.
Wasn’t super fun to install though!
I probably could’ve made do with just a track bar.
Metalcloak durospring bump stops
Maybe helped? Not sure
ICON front sway links - think they make a good budget version of Rock Kralwer’s no limit links for the Rubicon for added articulation… they are like half the size but also half the cost.
FYI most aftermarket links make you drill out your sway bar so you can fit 1/2” bolts, but that’s pretty easy.
Clayton steering stabilizer relocation bracket with AEV/bilstein damper.
Rock Krawler track bar (early design, did not have much curve and hit SS)
Swapped to Metalcloak track bar
Lighting:
Installed before winch, of course
Baja Design squadron pro ambers - love these for off road, but spilled too much light
when used as fog lights. Moved to a-pillar and rarely used now.
Diode Dynamics SS3 max yellow fog lights - sharp cutoff, works great as fogs. Prefer Baja Designs color though
Baja Designs LP6 - super bright!
Oracle rock lights - trash! overpriced
Full disclosure I attempted a knockoff DIY Gatekeeper Off-road steering knuckle light mount but it didn’t work.. still may try the Gatekeeper ones as steerable driving lights.
Bed light install with LED strips.
Wheels\tires:
The stock Falken A/T are great tires!
Bought some rough, used 37” Goodyear MT/R to try, they could not be balanced.
Bought 37”cooper STT Pros and have been happy with them off-road. They are noisy! I switch back to OEM Falken 33s for winter or towing.
If I had a longer commute or didn’t switch winter tires I’d definitely do A/T like a Mickey Baja Boss or larger Falkens, don’t think there’s any downside unless you’re doing thick mud like in the SouthEast and truly need a mud terrain.
I like the Teraflex Nomads. Deflate quickly, but I need a 3D printed wrench to help get the caps off.
I have had to clean the valves so they set to correct pressure but I think the used Goodyears were the culprit.
Btw you have to be careful which lug nuts you use, whether correct seat angle, diameter, etc. The stock lug nuts are too large diameter for Nomads so I replaced.
Future mods:
Teraflex Crankcase vent - poured out white smoke climbing at Rowher, think this is better fix than catch cans.
Bed topper?
Fridge?
When ball joints go bad, perhaps Reid knuckles, Dynatrac/Metalcloak ball joints, RCVs?
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