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BourbonRunner

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My only suggestions: Put a hose spigot and a slop sink of some sort in the workshop area.

You may only need the sink for hand washing and the occasional parts washing but having one in the garage to me is more important than having a bathroom. I can always find a well placed bush outside ;)

You also don't necessarily have to run a gravity drain line if its too complicated to get to the bathroom drain lines, they make under sink injector pumps for this application and they're relatively inexpensive all things considered. This one is from Home Depot but there might be others that are cheaper and work for your application.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-U...2-in-NPT-Outlet-BTTZSCPSB13HJFASSV1/331182047
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MudderNuker

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Might want to move the 2 post lift farther in unless you. Have roll up doors.
The size of your lot and budget will dictate the end results. In 2013 I hired a builder to erect a garage
24' x 36', the lower ceiling height is 10' and I now wish it were higher. However that was dictated by
the loft above. A year later we added a 12' shed roof extension to the far end. Included in my original plan was a woodshop area and although I intended to build my own cabinetry I actually bought
Gladiator metal cabinets to speed things along. Also ran a cold water line from the house for
handwashing, car washing etc, propane fired heat (after one disastrous winter with a space
heater) which keeps the interior above freezing in the winter. Later we also added an electric
Incinolet toilet (could not tie into septic system). Over the years I added a flammable liquids
safety cabinet, wire shelving (to minimize dust collection), a reloading area for firearms and
many,many tools I didn't have room for before. My builder did have the foresight to make one
bay door tall enough for my larger tractor with ROPS to fit through, I wish I had thought of a
hoist of some sort at the time. This was to have been my 'man cave' per the wife, but one of
my gripes is that everyone who sees an empty space now wants to store something there.
After 11 years I'd like to report it as done, but we always think of something new. I had thought
of finishing off the concrete slab someday but it is now so full of stuff it's hard to even see
concrete. Do not know the climate where you are located so heat may not be needed but
electricity will be as I'm sure you have included. I planned for a large air compressor and
pre-wired accordingly, but when it came time to install we learned another larger gauge line was needed since I planned to do sandblasting. It pays to plan ahead for unseen contingencies,
also you don't have to do everything at once. That said do get it done before you are too old
to enjoy it to the fullest.

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For us budget mainly. With the 2nd garage project we are slightly over $150k invested this year alone on this property. Since we are not financing anything (all cash) we feel like we are at the limit and can't withdraw anymore. Our property is on the larger scale as we have 18 acres.
 
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MudderNuker

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Might want to move the 2 post lift farther in unless you. Have roll up doors.
It's going to have two rollup doors.
 
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MudderNuker

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My only suggestions: Put a hose spigot and a slop sink of some sort in the workshop area.

You may only need the sink for hand washing and the occasional parts washing but having one in the garage to me is more important than having a bathroom. I can always find a well placed bush outside ;)

You also don't necessarily have to run a gravity drain line if its too complicated to get to the bathroom drain lines, they make under sink injector pumps for this application and they're relatively inexpensive all things considered. This one is from Home Depot but there might be others that are cheaper and work for your application.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-U...2-in-NPT-Outlet-BTTZSCPSB13HJFASSV1/331182047
We were just talking about installing a large laundry room sink for exactly what you said. The sewer line is already there since the pad prepped for our camper with full hookups. We are packing on having a spigot outside too. Actually reusing the RV park spigot we already have.
 
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BourbonRunner

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We were just taking about installing a large laundry room sink for exactly what you said. The sewer line is already there since the pad prepped for our camper with full hookups. We are packing on having a spigot outside too. Actually reusing the RV park spigot we already have.
Copy that. Wasn't sure if the bathroom drains would be able to be tied in to the slop sink drain. I'd still put a spigot inside even if I had one outside just to be able to wash and wax inside.

I'd also suggest making that ceiling as high as you possibly can for additional overhead storage purposes. You may wind up filling it with stuff faster than you think and having overhead racking is a great use of otherwise dead space. 12 ft is good but 15 feet is more gooder.

Are you planning on heating/cooling it? Getting a welder? Running a heavy duty air compressor? With that in mind you can't have too much electrical capacity in place for down the road. More capacity is also more gooder.
 

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Copy that. Wasn't sure if the bathroom drains would be able to be tied in to the slop sink drain. I'd still put a spigot inside even if I had one outside just to be able to wash and wax inside.

I'd also suggest making that ceiling as high as you possibly can for additional overhead storage purposes. You may wind up filling it with stuff faster than you think and having overhead racking is a great use of otherwise dead space. 12 ft is good but 15 feet is more gooder.

Are you planning on heating/cooling it? Getting a welder? Running a heavy duty air compressor? With that in mind you can't have too much electrical capacity in place for down the road. More capacity is also more gooder.
The walls are 12' high and the center is 15'. I have a 6 gallon compressor, a small 90amp welder and some other tools. The size of the garage is set as I already placed the deposit and the order is down range. No heating. It gets very cold here but during winter it stays above freezing for the most part.
 
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Anyone have experience with AMGO lifts? They seem decent. I like their floor brace kit.
 

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My dad had a garage built. 30ft wide, by 25ft deep. 2.5 car garage. Never heard my dad use the F word before. When the garage was finished. He walked inside looked around and say. This garage isn't fuckin' big enough. Me and my brother were rolling.

Installing a 2 post lift. Check on the requirements for the concrete thickness. Plus on how they are anchored.
 
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The cement should be 4" or more at 3,000 psi but will have 18" footers where the lift posts go. Planning on using longer and higher grade anchor bolts.
 

Rusty PW

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The cement should be 4" or more at 3,000 psi but will have 18" footers where the lift posts go. Planning on using longer and higher grade anchor bolts.
Neighbor did 6", 5000 psi. And 24" footers. Instead of using the drop in anchors. He used long L bolts to anchor the posts. Placed the L bolts in the footers before pouring the concrete into them.
 

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MudderNuker

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Neighbor did 6", 5000 psi. And 24" footers. Instead of using the drop in anchors. He used long L bolts to anchor the posts. Placed the L bolts in the footers before pouring the concrete into them.
Cement goes in next week and I haven't picked a lift so I don't know the anchor placement measurements. Your idea would be great if I did.
 

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Cement goes in next week ...
Just a few thoughts about the concrete work ...

I know there are code requirements in many (all?) areas for the slope of the floor. IMO, make sure that the finished concrete floor actually has that slope toward the doors. I wash my vehicles inside my garage all the time with my doors opened up about 1", which allows the water to flow out. Shady & cool in the summer and relatively warm in the winter. My neighbors think I'm crazy.

That leads me to the finish of the floor. IMO, you don't want an 'as-poured' finish. My floors are what I generically call semi-polished concrete, but they are actually about a Level 2 polish, which is referred to as a satin finish. This type of finish makes sweeping and spill clean-up really easy, and it also allows you to use a squeegee to get rid of residual wash water as well as snow/slush/water in the winter.
 
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Just a few thoughts about the concrete work ...

I know there are code requirements in many (all?) areas for the slope of the floor. IMO, make sure that the finished concrete floor actually has that slope toward the doors. I wash my vehicles inside my garage all the time with my doors opened up about 1", which allows the water to flow out. Shady & cool in the summer and relatively warm in the winter. My neighbors think I'm crazy.

That leads me to the finish of the floor. IMO, you don't want an 'as-poured' finish. My floors are what I generically call semi-polished concrete, but they are actually about a Level 2 polish, which is referred to as a satin finish. This type of finish makes sweeping and spill clean-up really easy, and it also allows you to use a squeegee to get rid of residual wash water as well as snow/slush/water in the winter.
I have to check on the slope. I'm going to do epoxy coating. I'm already planning on adding a spigot inside. It doesn't get too hot here. About 90 sporadically during the summer. Mostly 80s. Winters get very cold here since we are at 7,300.
 

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Work already started on the cement slab for my garage/shop. We already had a finished pad for our camper with full hookups but decided it would serve us best if we place the garage in that spot. We will reutilize the RV hookups on a small 1/2 bath. My plan is a 2 post car lift, work bench and garage cabinets as well as a small gym area with some free weights, water rowing machine and a spinning bike. The size of the garage will be 24Wx25Dx12H walls. Will have space to store by YJ, SXS and ATV. Decided on going with the same color scheme as our other garage next it. Super excited about this project.

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Since you have already started your project, this is possibly a moot point; however, if able, go with a 14' h by 10 w door on 1 side. Why? You likely will not be the last person to own and/or your plans may change. A large door allows the garage/shop to be used my many motor homes and trailers for storage. in the long run, the additional cost is negligible considering the addition utility value that it adds
 

Lost1wing

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I started this project in April. It's a solo project for the most part. I had a neighbor and my son help me with the concrete. My son-in-law helped me lift the trusses in place. I'm going to start electrical next week.

Good thing doing it yourself is, fewer shortcuts are taken.

Edit... I see that I am unable to upload photos again from my samgsung browser again. Also I am unable to upload photos from the Gmail app on my samgsung phone. Works from Chrome on my Samsung phone.
Jeep Gladiator New Garage/Shop 20240721_072014
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