In order to put in a bigger door 12x12, I would have to go with a wider garage. This would increase the cost by an additional $6,000 including the extra cement. Wife would definitely not approve.
You are not accounting for structure. Trusses are most common and will kill all over head height. Rafters can be used and for rough calcs estimate a 12" depth from roof down to give you actual interior clearance.Here are some views from the design program I used. The truck on the lift is up to the scale of a JT although it is a generic image. The vehicle next to it is supposed to be SXS to scale. The cabinet the right is an infrared sauna.
We already have the same garage but slightly shorter. The trusses only drop about 12". Where the lift will go and considering the vehicle will be centered in between the posts, the cleaeance above the lifted vehicle will be closer to 13' on the wall side to about 14.5' in the center of the garage. The pad will be a minimum of 4" but where the posts go there will be 2'x2'x18" footers tired to the rest of the pad with rebar. I will be using epoxy on the fasteners.
I use Firefox on my Samsung phone (and tablet) for forums and any specific sites I want to look at. It works better overall, for me, and I have no issues uploading pictures.I started this project in April. It's a solo project for the most part. I had a neighbor and my son help me with the concrete. My son-in-law helped me lift the trusses in place. I'm going to start electrical next week.
Good thing doing it yourself is, fewer shortcuts are taken.
Edit... I see that I am unable to upload photos again from my samgsung browser again. Also I am unable to upload photos from the Gmail app on my samgsung phone. Works from Chrome on my Samsung phone.
It's funny, because s few months ago was the first time that I noticed it. It corrected itself. And now it started acting up again. I did receive a Samsung update recently.
Looks like a cool project, congrats! This is a good minimum size in my opinion for a comfortable hobby Jeep/ DIY wrenching garage. I like the high ceiling, my garage (that came with the house) is 24'x24'x8' ceiling (no lift obviously) with a woodshop above. Yes it's a little tight, but enough space to mess around with projects and park something when there is no wrenching going on. I'm currently swapping a YJ frame in there. Need to wrap it up by winter so I can park both it and the gladiator under cover.Work already started on the cement slab for my garage/shop. We already had a finished pad for our camper with full hookups but decided it would serve us best if we place the garage in that spot. We will reutilize the RV hookups on a small 1/2 bath. My plan is a 2 post car lift, work bench and garage cabinets as well as a small gym area with some free weights, water rowing machine and a spinning bike. The size of the garage will be 24Wx25Dx12H walls. Will have space to store by YJ, SXS and ATV. Decided on going with the same color scheme as our other garage next it. Super excited about this project.
The ones on my short list call for 4" and 3,000 psi. I'm thinking that with the post footings and the perimeter footing I should be ok.
Might just have to GC it myself I guess.. Like what ya got goin!
The last photo isn't showing the perimeter foundation footing of at least 12" below grade and the rebar plus the two 24"x24"x24" footings where the lift posts will go. You should look into frost protected shallow foundations. I am planning on adding foam boards around the perimeter and over gravel after the slab is poured and the forms removed.I'm super jealous you are allowed to have a simple slab on grade where you are. Everyone in Colorado that knows foundation requirements knows they are crazy here from the S**T soils we have. My last quote for a 1500 sq ft building, the foundation alone was over 90K, and that was with a pier foundation and voidform walls, not that garbage sub-ex and overwater moisture treatment most builders do to save cost at the determinate to the owner. The whole building was almost 200K!!!
Do yourself a favor, and sleeve that zinc plated pipe before you pour... don't allow your slab to contact it... the cement will eat it with a vengeance! Just cut a section of PVC pipe that will fit around it, cut a slot down 1 side, and snap it around the pipe... above and below your concrete pad.Decided to modify the garage to include a larger door for the lift bay. Now it will have 10x10 door and a 9x8 door. I think this will work better and fits within the original garage size. Cement goes in next week. Today they will compact the ground and start laying rebar.
Thanks for the idea. Will do that.
