I retired from a power plant. And you never worked with Tim. There's tight.........and there is TimTight.
That was a quote from a machinist site.
There is a lot of information on the internet. It doesn't mean it's all true or it applies to all situations. It is important that we don't make what appear to be statements of fact if we aren't 100% sure they are factual or apply to the situation being discussed. Unfortunately, many people believe whatever they read on an internet forum and then 'parrot' the information as fact. Sorry if this comes across as being a jerk, but it's a pet peeve of mine.
My 2020 looked like that. I didnt even try a fluid swap before I traded it in. In fact the bottom edge of mine was worse.I suppose this is why:
Looks more like it's cast that way and not drilled. So the operation was changed but not the casting. (no milling/drilling, leave the casting as is)Add some additional info, Mojave with 9/21 build. Drain is partially drilled inside, but doesnt punch through.
So the made the housing weaker by drilling partially through, but no plug. Perfect sense.
I'm with you Bill. I was a tracked vehicle mechanic (Vietnam 69-70), and we never used the drain plugs except those to drain water out of the vehicle proper. I use the gear oil changes to see what's happening. The gaskets are cheap, even from the dealer. I never found an axle problem though. What a bummer. The first change always shows some metal. I've been wondering about the new gears on a new Gladiator. If you re-gear they always tell you to run for about 20 minutes a few times to "break in". I doubt anyone does that to new vehicles, but me. I had a new Tacoma that when I drove it home over 100 miles, the rear diff was too hot to touch. I'll give my new Gladiator the 20 minute treatment just in case (if they ever build it).I get what you are saying but drain plugs never "get it all out", especially with water. I have always, on anything I've ever changed fluid in as far as differentials, pulled the cover (exceptions of course being the old Ford setup, no cover to pull)
I pull the cover, use a plastic spreader or squeegee to get all of the stuff out, wipe it down good inside with lint-free clothes, make sure there's no traces of water inside, and button it up.
You find things that way you'd not otherwise find, and you can never get all of the water out with a drain plug.
Just me - too much stuff left inside, and if you are concerned about water, a drain plug ain't gonna cut it.
If 12 bolts is the issue - air ratchet.......... or electric ratchet, etc.
I found this in the bottom of the differential in one of my cars a few years ago - just draining and filling would have missed the fact I had a broken axle.
It really looked like a second op based on the threads. Its half drilled and threaded. Never seen casting like that
Based on just that one pic that doesn't really show the hole, but what looks like maybe it's a hole, I can't see any threads, just a dark, wet, hole that looks like it has rough sides.
I guess oil really does last forever.Add the rear axle drain plug no long there also. Just checked my 4-22 build Gladiator JT I just bought this weekend and had a look over and seen the drain plug for the rear axle is now missing.
Did not take a pic but found one on the Wrangler side that shows the same condition.
This
There is still the fill/level check plug on the steel cover. Not a big deal if you use the OEM cover with the reusable gasket. I have the Teraflex covers and they are a RTV only situation with no drain plug on the cover. So that means I either use a fluid vac to remove or I have to break the RTV seal and reseal anytime I service it in the future.
