Quality Issues

[ShadowsPapa]

If they have to replace the axle then its really not a cost difference . I’m my eyes . I had a jeep way back with 3.21 gearing lol it sucked put nitro trail grapplers on it 33 s couldn’t go up a hill with out beating the snot out of it. Traded it later that year for a rubi . The 33.s were nothing for it to go up hill . So what I’m saying is this ! A truck with 3.73 gearing and all that added weight is like a 4 door jk with 3.21 gearing With 33s . I think a gladiator with 33s or 35s and 3.73 is about equal to 3.21 gearing

Don't even try to compare earlier Jeeps to these.
My Gladiator with 3.73 gears did fantastic on 33s
I wonder if your expectations are a bit unreal and trying to compare to earlier Jeeps - can't do it.
I'd not run 35s on these gears but there are some members who have done it and do ok.
Shift later. What are you doing, trying to keep the revs down below 2500?

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[jeepmojo]

Don't even try to compare earlier Jeeps to these.
My Gladiator with 3.73 gears did fantastic on 33s
I wonder if your expectations are a bit unreal and trying to compare to earlier Jeeps - can't do it.
I'd not run 35s on these gears but there are some members who have done it and do ok.
Shift later. What are you doing, trying to keep the revs down below 2500?

No but generally I drive a bit passive due to speeds of a rubicon with 410s snail pace! So I guess you could say I shift under 3000 rpm as a rule of thumb. Btw I did bring it to dealer yesterday and axle shaft was ordered! They had it in shop for 2 hrs when pulled out I noted they never even removed the tire lol I guess they get paid to examine though under warranty . Dealer did say axle oil was slightly below filler plug . And could explain why oil seemed to be not leaking as bad . Idk I thought that’s where the level should be anyway but could be wrong . With my jk I just added what it called for and it never seemed to come out the plug hole . I had one seal go on that jeep they tried to say I over filled of course . Common diagnosis from dealers . Who knows maybe over filled this one at the factory !!! I think I’ll be keeping this one for a bit so I’ll have to study up on proper capacity of fluids for gladiator and proper oils required . Already I see they use 0w 20 weight oil as opposed to me always using 5/ 30 in my 2012 I always ran synchro mesh 30 amzoil in manual transmission and it shifted like butter . Even the dealership noted that that they never felt a jeep shift so smooth . All I could say was amzoil I guess . It was choppy so I tried amzoil and it ended up shifting smoothly over the mopar brand . Not that mopar is bad at all . Just I noted a big diff. As for as for differentials I used regular gear oil rather than synthetic . I think 95/140 or something like valvoline. Any suggestions appreciated not knowing much about gladiators and im on the road . So not a lot of time to look into things as I used to . I sold my house . So no place to really work on this either for time being . Basicly living out of my truck and hotel for now , dam cold here in nh too but it’s only temporary till I buy land again

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I use Penzoil synchromesh in my manual transmissions. Totally changed shifting (it's made to an earlier MOPAR spec which MOPAR took over from AMC when the had issues with the T5)

Differential (axle) fluid should normally be fill hole level to about first joint on little finger down. If you can stick your little finger in and bend it down in the hole and touch fluid, it's ok. That's the rule we always used in the shops I worked in.

Already I see they use 0w 20 weight oil as opposed to me always using 5/ 30 in my 2012

This is not a 2012 engine. They made major changes in about 2015 - major.

You can go a bit heavier but I'd not go much.
Viscosity isn't what protects - oil being there at all, the oil film, is what protects. People have a mistaken belief that heavier is better and more pressure is better. It's not. Viscosity doesn't protect, the strength of the film protects, no matter the oil's "weight".
Make it too thick and when cold you won't have protection - it won't get to where it needs to be. Too heavy and you may impact how phasers and other things operate in the cold. Frankly, I see no reason at all to change from the recommended weight. If I do it will be just one notch up. You may be fine with 5w30 but that's the limit I'd go up to.
I will likely stick with the recommendation, especially with any warranty.
The oil handles valve timing, valve lift, it's a variable displacement oil pump (meaning it changes volume and thus pressure at about 3500 rpm or so and above)

 

[jeepmojo]

I use Penzoil synchromesh in my manual transmissions. Totally changed shifting (it's made to an earlier MOPAR spec which MOPAR took over from AMC when the had issues with the T5)

Differential (axle) fluid should normally be fill hole level to about first joint on little finger down. If you can stick your little finger in and bend it down in the hole and touch fluid, it's ok. That's the rule we always used in the shops I worked in.



This is not a 2012 engine. They made major changes in about 2015 - major.

You can go a bit heavier but I'd not go much.
Viscosity isn't what protects - oil being there at all, the oil film, is what protects. People have a mistaken belief that heavier is better and more pressure is better. It's not. Viscosity doesn't protect, the strength of the film protects, no matter the oil's "weight".
Make it too thick and when cold you won't have protection - it won't get to where it needs to be. Too heavy and you may impact how phasers and other things operate in the cold. Frankly, I see no reason at all to change from the recommended weight. If I do it will be just one notch up. You may be fine with 5w30 but that's the limit I'd go up to.
I will likely stick with the recommendation, especially with any warranty.
The oil handles valve timing, valve lift, it's a variable displacement oil pump (meaning it changes volume and thus pressure at about 3500 rpm or so and above)

Yeh I’ll do the 0/20 as recommended is the penzoil syncromesh also 30 wt ? I’ll give that a try prob Easyer to get a hold of than amzoil . Used to drive near 50 miles and 50 miles home when I needed to change it out ! Thanks for feed back on it . I really want 35s on it though at some point . 33s we’re ok on my two door with no lift even but these trucks I’d imagine look wimpy with out a 35. I know I’ll lift it at some point here I’m not in a rush . I always think things through make sure it’s what I need vs what I’d like It’s going to be off road but mostly hunting spots so nothing crazy prob just go mopar 2” with 35s or 33s but I’m not fond of lifts with 33s I liked the low profile of jeep no lift and 33s with say a inch and a half of tire sticking out think my 16” wheels have 4.5 backspace prob be ok on this if I just mount new tires on those wheels

 

[NachoRuby]

Plus if I put 35s on it later I’m thinking it will be Awful going up a incline lol it has a job doing it on these little stock tires. I’m not exactly thrilled with this vehicle as I expected .

Like @ShadowsPapa said, rev her up. Hills are not a problem. Just don't be afraid when she's at 4000+ RPMs. The 3.6 makes its torque and power up top. I have a steep incline on my way to work in the morning, and it starts from a stop sign. I shift out of 1st no sooner than 4500 rpm there, and I hold second to 50 mph, which is 5300 rpm for me, with 4.1 gears and 35s (true measurement:34.4"). Use your powerband. Mine has 4.1s, so I don't know how your 3.73 ratio will handle 35s, but the 4.1 ratio does well with them. I wouldn't go any larger without regaring, though.

We also have two overdrives (5th and 6th), so it's almost better to think of it as a 5 speed with an extra highway gear. Steep hill climbs will require 3rd or 4th gear unless you're going 70 or so. Let it rev!

Seems to want to stay at same rpm’s when you go to down shift if not surge while your clutch is in to shift into a lower gear.

Rev hang. It's an emissions control. Basically defeat it by making absolutely sure there's no pressure on the throttle between shifts. It's a timing thing that you'll get used to quickly.
https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-ca...-in-modern-manual-cars-is-there-for-a-reason/

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Rev hang. It's an emissions control.

I could tell no one believed me when I said that's what it was........... it's not a flaw or a bug or bad engineering like the armchair engineers said.
It's there on purpose by design. It goes way back on some vehicles.
I see you found the proof.
I got used to it on other vehicles, simply ignored it. You learn to coordinate shifting and it won't bother after a while unless you want it to bother you - and I swear sometimes some folks want it to annoy them and don't want a logical explanation - they'd rather be annoyed LOL..

 

[JeepTaco]

Had some sort of issue with every vehicle I have owned. Current count is about 30-35. Never had a perfect vehicle. Sure some were better than others, but the newer vehicles seem to have more electrical issues or gremlins. Jeep nor any manufacturer that I am aware of makes all their own parts. Just look at the Takata (spelling?) airbag issues that affected countless manufacturers.
So, having issues with the JK, and one known issue with the JT, doesn’t make it unusual.
Luckily it happened under warranty.

Issues with every single vehicle i've owned as well.

350Z- slave cylinder issue at 12k miles and passenger airbag/seat sensor issue

2 different Mustang GT's- one at 35k miles had water intrusion to the cab which damaged the smart junction box. The other failed a power steering pump at 50k miles.

Q50 with factory twin turbos- failed turbos and leaking water pump at 9k miles.

Montero sport- leaking cam shaft seals, rear main seal leak, very loose steering, lifter issue.

Its common for vehicles to have issues especially when its a launch/first edition. My 2021 JT is the closest to launch date vehicle i've purchased. All others that were purchased new, were outgoing models prior to redesign. In theory, the manufacturer should have solved most issues on the last model year prior to a new model.

 

[jeepmojo]

Issues with every single vehicle i've owned as well.

350Z- slave cylinder issue at 12k miles and passenger airbag/seat sensor issue

2 different Mustang GT's- one at 35k miles had water intrusion to the cab which damaged the smart junction box. The other failed a power steering pump at 50k miles.

Q50 with factory twin turbos- failed turbos and leaking water pump at 9k miles.

Montero sport- leaking cam shaft seals, rear main seal leak, very loose steering, lifter issue.

Its common for vehicles to have issues especially when its a launch/first edition. My 2021 JT is the closest to launch date vehicle i've purchased. All others that were purchased new, were outgoing models prior to redesign. In theory, the manufacturer should have solved most issues on the last model year prior to a new model.

I agree it’s not like they don’t know about things that are obvious . Like water pouring in from roof. I mean how hard could it be to extend the gutters

 

[NachoRuby]

I agree it’s not like they don’t know about things that are obvious . Like water pouring in from roof. I mean how hard could it be to extend the gutters

If they extend the gutters, the wind noise will be even louder.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If they extend the gutters, the wind noise will be even louder.

That's one reason cars and trucks today don't have rain gutters - plus the fact that they mess with drag and air flow in general.
Jeep has some minor issues with drag as it is and the noise is likely at the top end of what's acceptable to the newer audience they are trying to reach (won't bother the die-hards but those few aren't keeping Jeep alive - it's people like my son and younger).

The internet is full of engineers who have perfect solutions that I'm sure no real engineer has even dreamed of LOL.
Every vehicle is a balance these days - target audience, cost/return, CAFE rules and more.
Think about it - Chrysler spent many thousands of dollars figuring out how to make the 4.0 more quiet because Grand Cherokee owners were complaining of the noise from the engine! Really? So they had to redesign the timing chain, add a snubber and add ribs along the length of the block. Me? Sorry, I can't tell the difference but - they got complaints about the noise. Good grief - that meant figuring out solutions and a redesign of the molds for casting the block!

We actually did have at least one Grand Cherokee that had no issues at all. One of our WJs had no trips to the dealer except for routine maintenance. Seems to me one of the WK2s had no issues. The 2018 had zero issues until we made a deal to trade it on a 2021 and then the batteries went bad and the NAV failed. Quickly resolved under warranty, then a couple of weeks later traded it for the 21 when it came in.
My 2011 Silverado literally had no issues at all - not a single one. The only times it ever saw a dealership was for routine maintenance and the sale included "tires for life" if you had them do regular tire rotations. (they ended that program, got too expensive for them, I guess - I did the math and yeah, you paid for the rotations but the cost of all of those was easily less than a set of tires and you spread the cost out over years.) Anyway, that was the single most reliable truck I've ever had. No warranty issues, don't remember any recalls, no squeaks, no leaks, drove and handled perfectly, everything just plain worked for as long as I owned it. Only the battery had to be replaced - and it lasted over 6 years (battery in my Ford truck went 12 years)

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