Reaching out to those doing their own shock tuning?

[CrazyCooter]

it's all a balance game, when your compression and rebound adjustment wants are so un balanced then yes a oil weight won't help. Keep postimg, this has been a interesting thread. My RRD shocks are fully rebuildable which means shim games are possible.....

It's a funny thing once you start digging into these things they aren't that complicated and brand starts to mean little, and it's more about the materials used, easy of access and basic design of the components that matter. You start with a good foundation you can adjust from there. (mono tube shocks anyway, the by pass is another animal.)

I have a dirtbike rear shock with a sachs body and shaft, kyb piston and aftermarket adjuster, all parts and pieces as a means to get to a better result.

I think my biggest reason to stay with the 5w is so that it's universally understood. When you look at the valving chart and think you want to make a change 2 steps in a direction, you can do just that. If you go with 10w or a variation in between, you don't know where that valve chart is going to put you. (EDIT: Fox uses 7W oil in the late model shocks)

This time of year I tend to get a little depressed with the colder weather and my mind can't idle.....this project has allowed me to fix conditions that have been nagging at me for months and I got to flex my mind even if I really don't' feel like being at the shop on the weekends anymore.

No reason a person can't mix/match parts to get a better result once you get the hang of how all of this works together. Again, sometimes hard with so much misinformation on the net. to filter out.

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[Glamisfan]

I’m glad I was able to help you with the very steep learning curve of shock tuning!
Talking about oil weights, I know you can do that and I’ve done it with RC cars before. But to me it’s quicker and easier to play with the shims then take all of the old oil out do something with it (if it’s black throw it away, if it’s still super clean then put it back in a separate used bottle to use for topping off shocks later) refill it with a different oil and then make damn sure I get all of the air out of it.

I do like my ride to be light and floaty but still take up the big hits. That’s probably why the thicker shims that you’re running surprise me so much because you like that firmer ride.

also, it was a mentioned above about a crossover stack and damaging the shims. Crossover stack is the same thing as a flutter stack. You don’t want thin shims like .006 or .008 up against a smaller flutter shim, .010 above the flutter is probably the line of being OK or not and .012 and .015 shouldn’t have issue. Also, the thicker the flutter shim the more chance of hurting the shim above it. The OP is using a flutter it’s the third shim in the rear compression .800x.010 and the second same size shim in the front compression.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I’m glad I was able to help you with the very steep learning curve of shock tuning!
Talking about oil weights, I know you can do that and I’ve done it with RC cars before. But to me it’s quicker and easier to play with the shims then take all of the old oil out do something with it (if it’s black throw it away, if it’s still super clean then put it back in a separate used bottle to use for topping off shocks later) refill it with a different oil and then make damn sure I get all of the air out of it.

I do like my ride to be light and floaty but still take up the big hits. That’s probably why the thicker shims that you’re running surprise me so much because you like that firmer ride.

also, it was a mentioned above about a crossover stack and damaging the shims. Crossover stack is the same thing as a flutter stack. You don’t want thin shims like .006 or .008 up against a smaller flutter shim, .010 above the flutter is probably the line of being OK or not and .012 and .015 shouldn’t have issue. Also, the thicker the flutter shim the more chance of hurting the shim above it. The OP is using a flutter it’s the third shim in the rear compression .800x.010 and the second same size shim in the front compression.

I do like a floaty ride sometimes, but since I drive more miles on the twisty mountain roads and tow than I do play off road.........and then I air the tires down to help absorb those 6" rocks and holes.

If I wanted to cough up $2500 more and start this process over, I'd be adding Fox's IQS system to these shocks........Not sure why Fox offers IQS 2.0 shocks for the JK....Why not to us big baller JL/JT owners in the 2.5 variety? https://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=utv&t=shocks&partnumber=803-01-450-KIT

Interesting that it looks like Fox is bending (Haha...pun intended) that thin shim under the crossover/flutter rule in the front stack as I installed it as delivered from them. I'll be changing that next time open them up. Last think I want is broken shims floating around inside!

 

[Mtpisgah]

Yes, not a lot of gap there. Looks like a 2-3" spacer. How much shock shaft do you have showing?

Might be able to ditch the spacer and pop in one of these. Hard tell exactly what the height is, but the fronts are 1" taller. https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-upper-rear-durospring.html

So there is 1.5” between the plate and the bump stop and 5.5” of shaft showing. Do you thing a shorter bump stop would help? What about removing the extension and letting it go back to the original plate?

I feel like I need to fly you to SC to work on my truck.

 

[CrazyCooter]

So there is 1.5” between the plate and the bump stop and 5.5” of shaft showing. Do you thing a shorter bump stop would help? What about removing the extension and letting it go back to the original plate?

I feel like I need to fly you to SC to work on my truck.

I'd take the spacer out all together, twist it up with a forklift, loading ramp, or other suitable method......Verify tire clearance, shock travel, and no coil spring bind. I'm thinking you will be fine with the Mojave and 35s.

Main question is the spring.......justvmake sure you have some gap between the coils.

 

[Mtpisgah]

I'd take the spacer out all together, twist it up with a forklift, loading ramp, or other suitable method......Verify tire clearance, shock travel, and no coil spring bind. I'm thinking you will be fine with the Mojave and 35s.

Main question is the spring.......justvmake sure you have some gap between the coils.

Cool, I will try to remove the extension spacer this weekend. It will probably be a few weeks before I am offroad again so I will try to find something around town to check it on. I drove at Windrock in Tennessee two weekends ago without and perceived performance issues, by main thing is daily driving.

Does the JT come with an upper coil bearing to help prevent binding?

 

[CrazyCooter]

Cool, I will try to remove the extension spacer this weekend. It will probably be a few weeks before I am offroad again so I will try to find something around town to check it on. I drove at Windrock in Tennessee two weekends ago without and perceived performance issues, by main thing is daily driving. Does the JT come with an upper coil bearing to help prevent binding? You might be surprised how much comfort you note both on/off road and performance off road with 2" more up travel. Cheap easy test. The type of binding isn't a twisting like in a McPherson type strut application, so no bearing. You are worried about the coils touching each other and binding before your bump hits. I really think you will be golden! You may also check your fronts too. Might not need those spacer either or maybe trim them. Since you are having issues with your rear and you have the 2.5 shocks, are you a candidate for this tune? Do you have axle weights?

 

[Mtpisgah]

You might be surprised how much comfort you note both on/off road and performance off road with 2" more up travel. Cheap easy test. The type of binding isn't a twisting like in a McPherson type strut application, so no bearing. You are worried about the coils touching each other and binding before your bump hits. I really think you will be golden! You may also check your fronts too. Might not need those spacer either or maybe trim them. Since you are having issues with your rear and you have the 2.5 shocks, are you a candidate for this tune? Do you have axle weights?

I do not have axle wights but keep hoping to drive by a station some time and get them.

Reading another thread I am tempted to order front shocks from Accutune and send the rears to them too. I have too much ‘invested’ in the truck to not be willing to spend a bit extra. I never really thought about custom tuning Jeep shocks until I read your post. My shop never mentioned it and they know the issues I am having.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I do not have axle wights but keep hoping to drive by a station some time and get them.

Reading another thread I am tempted to order front shocks from Accutune and send the rears to them too. I have too much ‘invested’ in the truck to not be willing to spend a bit extra. I never really thought about custom tuning Jeep shocks until I read your post. My shop never mentioned it and they know the issues I am having.

Like mentioned before.......This shock tuning is something normal mortals have not done in the past. It's secret and the people who have figured it out keep it secret I think, but it's not rocket science to those who understand what is happening and how to fix it. I would never have thought about opening up a client's shocks till a few weeks ago., but I knew enough to refer them somewhere to get it done.

On one hand I don't want to give away my work, but also would like to see others be happy with their Jeeps. I also don't plan on tuning for others at the shop unless I found some decent help that lightened my current load and freed up some time for such projects. Not sure how much market there is locally for the service anyway.

Locally, I could have someone who has a similar equipped JT, take my rig for a ride around the block for the roadtest, and listen to what they want from the offroad and get them close and a little tweak later? I would also like to do a JL and then maybe a Tacoma, however Icon has a great off the shelf offering already for the Tacoma, so I don't see a need.

 

[Mtpisgah]

Like mentioned before.......This shock tuning is something normal mortals have not done in the past. It's secret and the people who have figured it out keep it secret I think, but it's not rocket science to those who understand what is happening and how to fix it. I would never have thought about opening up a client's shocks till a few weeks ago., but I knew enough to refer them somewhere to get it done.

On one hand I don't want to give away my work, but also would like to see others be happy with their Jeeps. I also don't plan on tuning for others at the shop unless I found some decent help that lightened my current load and freed up some time for such projects. Not sure how much market there is locally for the service anyway.

Locally, I could have someone who has a similar equipped JT, take my rig for a ride around the block for the roadtest, and listen to what they want from the offroad and get them close and a little tweak later? I would also like to do a JL and then maybe a Tacoma, however Icon has a great off the shelf offering already for the Tacoma, so I don't see a need.

The funny thing about me not thinking about tuning the shocks until now is that I had it done on my mountain bikes almost 20 years ago.
I really thing my coils are more the issue than the shocks, but I am not sure. I know it is not going to ride perfect because of the load I carry, but I just want it to be a little better.

 

[CrazyCooter]

The funny thing about me not thinking about tuning the shocks until now is that I had it done on my mountain bikes almost 20 years ago.
I really thing my coils are more the issue than the shocks, but I am not sure. I know it is not going to ride perfect because of the load I carry, but I just want it to be a little better.

We're so used to disposable non adjustable shocks on our trucks, but the higher quality toys are usually somewhat adjustable. When you buy the good stuff, you "Should" be able to get it close unless the vehicle is loaded/used way out of the design as we kind of are with "Overloading".......I mean overlanding.

You can see every manufacturer has a different idea of what the winning combo is...Synergy, Teraflax, and Evo have super light springs. Metalcloak uses lighter double rates springs, Clayton uses heavier double/triple rate springs, etc...... How does a shock manufacturer even sell a part that fits all of those scenarios? Would most people even notice crawling the malls? AEV has thier own custom valved shock tunes that match their springs.......That "Matched Combo" costs more so it seems either the Doctors, Engineer, professional types with a bit more disposable income ask for it.

2 of my 3 friends I do to the desert with watch Trail Recon, The Story Till Now, and 395JNKY, so they guzzle the Teraflex Koolaid........The sagging, bottoming, and head bobble it see with their rigs makes me hurt just watching. I'm so sick of them complaining about scary sidehills and my pace on/off road. They have bought twice and still are trying to tune the correct height with spacers......They just wont listen! The other guy started with Rough Country and Shittybilt, but is learning from me finally and planning on spending some coin on the proper parts this year for his JT.

 

[CrazyCooter]

@Mtpisgah
I was just looking over JKS' sping offerings.......Looks like they just give you some JLU 3.5" front springs and call them 3" JT springs? I know many manufacturers are just giving us left over JK springs, butu it's still a marginal solution. No doubt those are too light? If they matched the rears to the already too light fronts, there ya go.

 

[Mtpisgah]

I am willing to spend a fare amount to make it ride right and luckily I can afford it. I just wish I had spent more time selecting the lift and had not just accepted what the shop suggested. I am switching to a different shop and if they can get slightly stiffer coils to go with my JKS lift, I will. I do not want to replace the whole lift, but I might have to.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I am willing to spend a fare amount to make it ride right and luckily I can afford it. I just wish I had spent more time selecting the lift and had not just accepted what the shop suggested. I am switching to a different shop and if they can get slightly stiffer coils to go with my JKS lift, I will. I do not want to replace the whole lift, but I might have to.

Not sure how far you are from Charlotte, but you might reach out to Carolina Truggies CT Raceworx. Not sure if he is doing Jeeps anymore as the UTV end of things really ramped up. Alex has knowledge of how to make suspensions work properly and does shock valving for UTV's at least.

You need to find a shop with serious off road enthusiasts that use their stuff in the same manner you do. The big shop with the shiny showroom full of inventory, two guys sitting at the counter selling, and 5 minimum wage installers in the back probably isn't the place..........

 

[Glamisfan]

Yeah if you can get Alex Reed at CT race works to dial in your shocks you’ll be very happy. I was trying to think of that company the other day when I read the post and saw South Carolina but I just couldn’t remember what company it was from past side-by-side days.

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