Recommendations for good tires for sand

[Aj58]

I’m going to be getting a Mojave and want to get some 35”s for the beaches around here. Any recommendations on a tire/tread type for a loose sand beach? This will be used for around town, on the beach, and sometimes on trails.

from looking at the other threads I see the aggressive treads dog into the sand and don’t work that great so looking for any recommendations.

for reference I’ll be putting them in these wheels.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/blac...-drab-green-wheel-17x95-1795abr-85127n71.html

Thanks!

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[Zachattack50]

I run the bfg ko series. They do very well in sand. Here in Michigan we have alot of sand. I just make sure to get load range C, not E. Always happy with them, great on road manners, and they perform well offroad. I run 28 psi, on the factory willys wheels. In sand we air down to 10psi usually, ocasionally 8 if its really sugary that day.

 

[hjdca]

Both "All-Terrains" and "Mud-Terrains" can do well in the sand. "All-Terrains" with air removed generally do better climbing sand dunes when you have lots of momentum. Aggressive lug tires, like "Mud-Terrains" require more air to be removed to work close to as well as "All-Terrains" with air removed. My advice is get the tire you desire for all-around 4wheeling, and if it is agressive lug, then, go down to 12 psi in the sand and it will perform great.

Note: I run aggressive lug tires for my 4wheeling, ie. "Mud-Terrains"; and I have been to Pismo Beach a few times and I do NOT wish I had "All-Terrains" while I am there.

 

[jeep1]

I'm running Nitto Trail Grappers and they do just fine in the sand... My wife has Ridge Grapplers and they also did just fine.

 

[toddarama]

Both "All-Terrains" and "Mud-Terrains" can do well in the sand.

I should keep my mouth shut because I have no actual experience ... but what I've heard on the interwebs was that you generally wanted to avoid MTs for sand with the theory being that they are more likely to dig you into the sand vs floating on top. Not sure how much truth there is in that statement, but probably worth some googling to learn more on the topic.

 

[hjdca]

I should keep my mouth shut because I have no actual experience ... but what I've heard on the interwebs was that you generally wanted to avoid MTs for sand with the theory being that they are more likely to dig you into the sand vs floating on top. Not sure how much truth there is in that statement, but probably worth some googling to learn more on the topic.

Generally, yes, that is true, that is why you have to get them "flat enough" to act like "paddle tires" in the sand. If they have a sidewall on the softer side, and you get them down to 12 psi or even less, they will act more like a "paddle tire" than a "Mud tire" - ie. throwing sand backwards rather than throwing sand straight up in the air and digging a hole.

 

[Jefe1018]

Unless you are running Baja and are a top 1% driver, pretty much anything from major manufacturers will do the job. Just make sure to air down a bit and you’ll notice awesome traction, I shoot for 13-15psi.

 

[Lunentucker]

for reference I’ll be putting them in these wheels.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/blac...-drab-green-wheel-17x95-1795abr-85127n71.html

Thanks!

Stock Mojave Rims 7.5"/ +37 mm offset
New rims 2" wider (1" each side of centerline) -25mm
+37-25 = +12 (to maintain same outer and inner)

You're buying much more negative offset (poke) than you need to buy.
12.5 tires will naturally relax a bit more on the wider rims, but a 0 mm offset would be much more practical and functional, without throwing so much force away from the hubs and adding undue stress to your components. Plus, it will keep more tire under the fenders and reduce winter slop and mud on your doors and rear fenders.


Also check your state's laws regarding tires protruding beyond the fenders.

 

[Rahkmalla]

check your state's laws regarding tires protruding beyond the fenders.

I am not a lawyer. Dont cite my post if you end up in court, that being said my knowledge on the subject is:

NJ has no laws regarding poke for un-lifted vehicles. A "tire only" lift needs to be 2 inches above stock ride height to qualify as lifted. Since stock tires are 32.7, you'd need to have tires 36.7 or larger to count as two inches. Since 99% of 37s are actually 36.5, you're talking 38s or larger.

Now other than "tire only" lift, NJ qualifies ANY lifting of the body as a lift. "Leveling" included.

Now, getting such laws enforced is a whole different issue. Lifted Vehicle Inspections only take place in 2 MVC sites in the entire state, and I've never seen a Lifted Vehicle Inspection Sticker in the real world and I drive past multiple lifted vehicles ranging from tasteful to questionable nature multiple times per day.

As for personal aesthetic... I'd make sure you really like the aggressive poke look before committing to -18. I run +6 on my Mojave and found it to be too much poke. I solved my issue with XR flares extension, but -18 is almost an entire inch further out than +6 and now you're into DBOR fender flare extensions territory to fix it, and those are $750 unprep'ed, unpainted (XRs were a $50 fix). I personally would never fit -18s.

 

[Lunentucker]

I am not a lawyer. Dont cite my post if you end up in court, that being said my knowledge on the subject is:

NJ has no laws regarding poke for un-lifted vehicles. A "tire only" lift needs to be 2 inches above stock ride height to qualify as lifted. Since stock tires are 32.7, you'd need to have tires 36.7 or larger to count as two inches. Since 99% of 37s are actually 36.5, you're talking 38s or larger.

Now other than "tire only" lift, NJ qualifies ANY lifting of the body as a lift. "Leveling" included.

Now, getting such laws enforced is a whole different issue. Lifted Vehicle Inspections only take place in 2 MVC sites in the entire state, and I've never seen a Lifted Vehicle Inspection Sticker in the real world and I drive past multiple lifted vehicles ranging from tasteful to questionable nature multiple times per day.

As for personal aesthetic... I'd make sure you really like the aggressive poke look before committing to -18. I run +6 on my Mojave and found it to be too much poke. I solved my issue with XR flares extension, but -18 is almost an entire inch further out than +6 and now you're into DBOR fender flare extensions territory to fix it, and those are $750 unprep'ed, unpainted (XRs were a $50 fix). I personally would never fit -18s.

Good info.
I couldn't find much on it, and being in VA I was unfamiliar.
I think I did see that if anything it's a secondary offense in NJ, meaning you can't get stopped for it, but it could go as an add-on after you get stopped for something else.

 

[chaosjake]

I've had great results on deep Cape Cod dune sand with the Wildpeak ATs... But I've also seen people running total street tires on everything from a Winnebago to a Subaru Crosstrek. I think pressure matters more than tread pattern. Just air down to 11psi and have fun

 

[Aj58]

Appreciate the insight about the wheels as well! I may have gotten a little ahead of myself and gotten caught up on the looks of the olive wheels. Wouldn’t like the poke but liked the wheels. I’ll probably lean towards these for wheels and go with a 0 offset.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/blac...een-black-lip-wheel-17x9-br002eb17905000.html

 

[ScottBeach]

I run e rated ridge grapplers. Great in Florida sands

 

[Tar Heel Wrangler]

I ran KO2s in the Outer Banks in my JLU and Wildpeaks in my JT airing down to 18 psi. Both worked fine, but I prefer Wildpeaks. I find they do a little better in rain plus they are snow rated and can handle deep snow. I will get Wildpeak 35s when I need new shoes.

 

[Max-t]

I’ve been taking the factory falkens through blow sand and California desert sand and beach sand. They’ve been great. Not stuck once (jinx) knock on wood.
beach sand isnt A huge problem. Good and gritty. All you need is float. No aggressive tread that digs in (think tsl ssb) but people get away with that too. Air down and go fast.

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