Recommendations for replacement brakes?

[PyrPatriot]

Sticky caliper? Slide pins need greasing?

or, the abs/traction control at work could accelerate wear.
If memory serves, seems like my old JK’s rear brakes wore out before the fronts. General consensus was the bias for rear brake pressure was upped?

this could be a reason for rear brake accelerated wear.

but, it goes away and isn't present in in warmer weather, has to be about freezing or colder. Just trying to maximize the dealer diagnostic fee

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[Blade1668]

Something I have noticed with the my JT is during driving and going around some curves it will do "control" braking if it thinks it's going to fast and applying brakes on one side or other depending on direction of the curve especially on one road I drive on way back from work. So I expect more wear on the right side than the left side.?
I will probably get a set of EBC brake pads to have ready to change them if I can get the correct ones. I've had okay service from them in the past.

 

[PyrPatriot]

How about part numbers for different pads, do decrease likelihood of getting the wrong size?

EBC green or orange pads?

 

[Renegade]

Something I have noticed with the my JT is during driving and going around some curves it will do "control" braking if it thinks it's going to fast and applying brakes on one side or other depending on direction of the curve especially on one road I drive on way back from work. So I expect more wear on the right side than the left side.?
I will probably get a set of EBC brake pads to have ready to change them if I can get the correct ones. I've had okay service from them in the past.

You mean the ESP is kicking in? “Control” braking (as you termed it) isn’t normal.

 

[Blade1668]

You mean the ESP is kicking in? “Control” braking (as you termed it) isn’t normal.

Yes, even though it wasn't nessary

 

[Renegade]

Yes, even though it wasn't nessary

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but something must be off if your ESP is kicking in unnecessarily. Usually it’s an improper steering angle, or other alignment issue.

 

[Blade1668]

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but something must be off if your ESP is kicking in unnecessarily. Usually it’s an improper steering angle, or other alignment issue.

Quite possibly.
I noticed some of the tracking when I was driving yesterday. I was driving down a fairly straight road the tire tracks on wet pavement reminded me of a fish swimming as in slightly weaving not quite a straight line. The curved section of road speed limit of 30 MPH that hooks left then back in the shape of a actually hairpin and is slightly banked wrong but for drainage. My JT senses the pitch and roll then reacts to it as I'm leaving the curve.
Oh and I'm waiting for the replacement steering gearbox still, that is supposed to be in next week. ? I don't really notice much of the steering "swimming" except after driving my LJ, and when looking in rearview mirror when driving down a wet pavement.
I've not been to warm and fuzzy with all the "safety" systems in newer vehicles but stuck with them. No need for anyone to get started with how great they are to me. Some can and do help many people, and I can see that. But in some spots they counter productive and make things worse... Starting with ABS brakes!

 

[CerOf]

I always check my pad thickness when doing the tire rotation.

Discount tire lets you in their bays. When the tires off, stick your head in there and check them out!

this makes me think of “Tommy Boy”:
“Of course, I can get a hell of a good look at a T-Bone steak by sticking my head up a bull's ass, but I'd rather take the butcher's word for it.”

sometimes, you do need to get up in there.

 

[Jellygladiator]

so power stop Z36 for front, whats the number for the rear??

 

[jsalbre]

you arent entering a corner fast, trail braking, and mashing the throttle on exit; rinse and repeat, multiple times in 1.8 miles.

Hey, the local grocery run is *intense* here.

 

[PyrPatriot]

So looking at RockAuto, seems the best/most expensive pads are
DYNAMIC FRICTION 1400158900 Ulitmate Duty Performance - Front $75

POWER STOP Z362233 Z36 Severe Duty Truck & Tow; Carbon-Fiber Ceramic; Includes Hardware - Rear $50

Good to go?

Or should I stick with Mopar's heavy duty sets for about $300

https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rear-brake-pad-kit-jt-68376749AC
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/front-disc-brake-pad-set-jl-jt-heavy-duty-brakes-68456066AA

Wait, why does Quadratec have the installation as level 3/hard? I thought brake jobs were easy?

Rotors and calipers need replacing when?

 

[iammacey]

So looking at RockAuto, seems the best/most expensive pads are
DYNAMIC FRICTION 1400158900 Ulitmate Duty Performance - Front $75

POWER STOP Z362233 Z36 Severe Duty Truck & Tow; Carbon-Fiber Ceramic; Includes Hardware - Rear $50

Good to go?

Or should I stick with Mopar's heavy duty sets for about $300

https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rear-brake-pad-kit-jt-68376749AC
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/front-disc-brake-pad-set-jl-jt-heavy-duty-brakes-68456066AA

Wait, why does Quadratec have the installation as level 3/hard? I thought brake jobs were easy?

Rotors and calipers need replacing when?

Rotors are a wear item but the wear is dictated by pad aggressiveness. Rotors should be replaced when they reach their minimum thickness. I haven't, yet, measured rotor thickness. I'll do this once it's close to time for pads. You can, potentially, resurface or turn the rotors. And, if any damage has occurred, they should be replaced.

Some people choose to replace rotors at the same time as pads.

Calipers rarely need replacing. Potentially a rebuild would be needed if the rubber boot gets torn or you have a caliper failure.

Brake pads aren't hard to do. Just know, as brake pads wear, the piston stops retracting all the way. This is by design. When removing pads and installing new pads, you need to push the pistons back into the caliper. This can often require a piston tool to effectively do. Some push, some twist, and some can be very difficult without a tool.

I would also suggest a brake fluid flush. This can be done with a silicone hose, bottle, and spare person. Or you can buy one of many styles of brake bleeders.

It has historically been something I've paid for until last year. I started doing my own brake work because I track my Fiesta. That means more frequent brake work and I didn't want to pay for it.

Pad type is up to you. Low dust. More bite on cold. Less fade. Better heat management. It's a question of what you want out of the brakes. If you've been happy with the stock stopping power, just go Mopar.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Holy cow - I've never had a car or TRUCK need brake parts that soon, ever. I had over 80K on my F250 when I traded it and the brakes were still 1/3 there, and I pulled a heavy flat bed that did NOT have trailer brakes (it was about 3,000 pounds EMPTY) and I towed through mountains, hills, you name it.
My Chevy truck brakes were like new when I sold it to the dealer. My SX4 was an abused car when I got it with over 150,000 miles and it had the original brakes. By then the rotors were to the point I just replaced them instead of messing with them.

I've done hundreds of brake jobs over the years and the only ones that had premature wear were IHP cars (some wore the rotors so bad one half of the rotor was gone and the pad was down to the steel backing) or cases where a caliper stuck and could not "float".

YES to brake fluid flushes. I don't know what sort of fluid is used in the JT - I have not bothered looking into that, but don't mix fluid types. Typical old-school brake fluid has an affinity for water - it absorbs it like it needs it to live. Brake companies recommend every 2 years. They used to recommend every year in the 70s and 80s but I took one of their tests lately and see they've changed it to 2 years in recent years.
That gets all of the particles from the rubber rings and cups wearing and any moisture out.
My F250 rotted the brake lines out from the inside out - they literally popped even though they "looked good" - I didn't flush the system and after 5 years I lost 2 steel lines. I know better, I just got busy and lazy.
Modern ABS is not quite as easy to flush as old systems, as I recall there's actually a setting in AlfaOBD or one of the software packages that will set the ABS up to help flush.
Someone smarter than me can clarify or correct that!

 

[PyrPatriot]

Holy cow - I've never had a car or TRUCK need brake parts that soon, ever. I had over 80K on my F250 when I traded it and the brakes were still 1/3 there, and I pulled a heavy flat bed that did NOT have trailer brakes (it was about 3,000 pounds EMPTY) and I towed through mountains, hills, you name it.
My Chevy truck brakes were like new when I sold it to the dealer. My SX4 was an abused car when I got it with over 150,000 miles and it had the original brakes. By then the rotors were to the point I just replaced them instead of messing with them.

I've done hundreds of brake jobs over the years and the only ones that had premature wear were IHP cars (some wore the rotors so bad one half of the rotor was gone and the pad was down to the steel backing) or cases where a caliper stuck and could not "float".

YES to brake fluid flushes. I don't know what sort of fluid is used in the JT - I have not bothered looking into that, but don't mix fluid types. Typical old-school brake fluid has an affinity for water - it absorbs it like it needs it to live. Brake companies recommend every 2 years. They used to recommend every year in the 70s and 80s but I took one of their tests lately and see they've changed it to 2 years in recent years.
That gets all of the particles from the rubber rings and cups wearing and any moisture out.
My F250 rotted the brake lines out from the inside out - they literally popped even though they "looked good" - I didn't flush the system and after 5 years I lost 2 steel lines. I know better, I just got busy and lazy.
Modern ABS is not quite as easy to flush as old systems, as I recall there's actually a setting in AlfaOBD or one of the software packages that will set the ABS up to help flush.
Someone smarter than me can clarify or correct that!

Well, how can I tell if they need replacing? The Jeep dealership I've been taking my JT to for work like the steering box said that in 15k miles (back then, it calculated out to about 50k miles total) my brakes would need replacing. I'm not saying I should expect 100k miles from the pads and still be at half life (like the guy escorting wind turbine blades driving 90% highway), but I do go off-roading and sometimes I have to go on stretches lasting hours with mud in the wheelwells/brakes so bad it actually affects the braking feel (ie squishy and longer pedal press to get adequate stopping)

 

[FutureOdin]

Well, how can I tell if they need replacing? The Jeep dealership I've been taking my JT to for work like the steering box said that in 15k miles (back then, it calculated out to about 50k miles total) my brakes would need replacing. I'm not saying I should expect 100k miles from the pads and still be at half life (like the guy escorting wind turbine blades driving 90% highway), but I do go off-roading and sometimes I have to go on stretches lasting hours with mud in the wheelwells/brakes so bad it actually affects the braking feel (ie squishy and longer pedal press to get adequate stopping)

This was already answered:

You just need to pull off a wheel and check the pad thickness on both pads. I have to admit that I didn’t read your post well, and it is possible you would need pads at 50k miles. They should be replaced when they get to about 1/8” thickness, but the indicators should also start making noise around that time.

Also do they make noise? Grind? Are you noticing it takes longer to stop? These are all indicators that your brakes (may) need to be replaced.

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