Get the Redarc. The factory controller doesn't even offer any kind of real integration into the truck like most OEM ones do. Plus as I found the 12v is critical if you want to use a camera system on a travel trailer.
I was thinking of mounting mine in this location as well. However i was going to see if i could make my own panel to fit in there so as not to damage the factory panel.I am right-handed and wanted to have the brake controller where I could see it and easily adjust it. I also did not want to relocate the 12v receptacle. So I ended up installing it next to the 12v receptacle.
have to add the brake controller to our Overland ... like this idea, seems like a nice clean fit ... thanxsI am right-handed and wanted to have the brake controller where I could see it and easily adjust it. I also did not want to relocate the 12v receptacle. So I ended up installing it next to the 12v receptacle.
I wanted to thank you for this thread. It’s the perfect location and clean install without sacrificing my 12V. Installed it this AM. I found a Dremel Stylo perfect for modifying the plastic inserts.
Nice job, was the factory pig tail just laying there behind the panel? Im gathering up to do this in the near futureFinally installed the Redarc brake controller.
I got a lot of great ideas from folks here on the forum so I want to share how it turned out.
The process was fairly simple, once I decided where to put things. I have the Overland without aux switches (I refused to pay that much for a handful of switches and relays). So I made an insert for the worthless cubby at the bottom of the dash for the controller and switches. I also ended up using the TPH-020 - just swapped the wires. Taking the dash apart IS intimidating the first time!
I used 1 1/2" aluminum angle stock for both the insert and the main controller bracket. Insert took about an hour to make - including spraying with flat black paint. Switch wiring I'll do later when I install lights, 110v inverted in back and an onboard compressor. I'll mount a fuse box under the hood and run low power control wire up to the switches then.
The advice I would give:
1. Be patient - take your time and think things through.
2. Have the right tools on hand - the trim removal tool set made a huge difference removing the dash. A step drill set makes the switch holes easy.
3. Don't leave anything that will shake around or vibrate - wire ties are you friend.
Most important - the blue light is on! Yes!
Thanks. Ya, the factory wiring was easy to find... once your upside down on the floor
10k miles and it hasn't moved a bit.
Looks great! Happy to share the idea, and thankful for all the other great ideas our community shares.@timo Thanks for posting and the write up! I looked at so many different mounting locations and just couldn't like the other options. I did mine yesterday. It was pretty simple and straight forward thanks to your detailed post.
How the heck did you get out the whole module ? I popped out the blank section with some plastic trim tools but the 115v ac cargo button and casing remains in the original position.@timo Thanks for posting and the write up! I looked at so many different mounting locations and just couldn't like the other options. I did mine yesterday. It was pretty simple and straight forward thanks to your detailed post.
Just be gentle and keep trying. If you look carefully at my last pic, you can see the tabs you need to release.
They have a new adapter for the gladiator.
