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Reverse camera license plate light bleed - my fix

ShadowsPapa

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Thanks! That would give me like $300 extra to spend on nicer things :D - are there even more expensive options which would make me feel better?
I have one of the eBay versions I ripped out of my 2022 and it's in a bag. Why? Because the wires were too big for the pins and connectors, the crimping was bad and the wires pulled out of the connectors after just a few months. I've got pictures somewhere - the wires were a mess.

Others have put in relays and come out a whole lot cheaper and better. The relay bit is a piece of cake and you can use a really small amperage compact relay - no need for a full size relay. You could actually do it so the relay tucks up into the tail light harness - you could use an Oracle backup light harness for part of it. I have all the parts to make one using a small amperage relay (what do LED licence plate lights take? Fraction of an amp?) but found it not needed on a 25 with bright backup lights I have.

I found with the Oracle backup lights in a 2025 there is no washout of the camera. First, they changed the camera, and second - those bright backup lights offset any washout.


With that said, can JSCAN do that?
No, because it's a live function of tazer which cut out the BCM signal to the plate lights when in reverse.
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Please share the how to. Would love to do this.
Here's the list of materials:

- Normally closed relay (https://a.co/d/03cVJaVq)
- Spade connectors, or your favorite connector style (https://a.co/d/0eiLNlww)
- Cable taps (https://a.co/d/0aA29s7C)
- Waterproofing tape (e.g. vulcanizing)

If you want to avoid tapping into the hitch cables, or you have other things you want to wire up, you can add:

- CURT 56584 inline tap (https://a.co/d/00n6uj5D)
- Five way flat trailer plug (https://a.co/d/0aj40GCX)

The build is very simple:

1. Remove the spare tire (I find it makes it easier to work under the back)
2. Locate the connector for the license plate lights
3. Cut the green wire, and add a spade connector, male on one side, female on the other.
4. Plug the connector and check your lights still come on. This is how you'd undo the mod if you ever wanted to.
5. Add two spade connectors to the green cables of the relays, one male, one female.
6(a). Add two cable taps to the reverse light wire and the ground wire on the hitch receiver. Add spade connectors to the yellow and white cables of your relay. The yellow cable then goes to the reverse light tap, and the white cable to the white cable tap.
6(b). If you went with the cleaner option, remove the hitch wiring connector, insert the Curt tap, and solder the blue wire of the five-way plug to your relay's yellow wire, and the white wire to the white wire respectively.
7. Once everything is connected, test! With your car parked, turn the rear camera on and watch the washed out image. Put the car in reverse, and see how the license plate lights turn off.
8. Waterproof the joints at will. Fix the relay to your nearest post or cable run.

Below is a wiring diagram of the finished mod:

Jeep Gladiator Reverse camera license plate light bleed - my fix Rear light mod


If you ever want to undo the mod, this is how:

Jeep Gladiator Reverse camera license plate light bleed - my fix Rear light mod undon


If you have any questions, shout!
 

ShadowsPapa

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Tip - you can use a relay a fraction of that size..............
 
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Tip - you can use a relay a fraction of that size..............
I know, it's handling a tiny current... but it's what I could source quickly, and smaller ones are not proportionally cheaper. Having the tab to attach it to something and it being waterproof is nice too.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I know, it's handling a tiny current... but it's what I could source quickly, and smaller ones are not proportionally cheaper. Having the tab to attach it to something and it being waterproof is nice too.
I salvaged several from vehicles I'd parted out, including a 94 ZJ that had several. I like the really small space and the ability to use small connectors and wires.

Yes, waterproof is a must, IMO, on any truck or Jeep.
 

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Jeeper44mag

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I have the bypass harness I bought from eBay. Worth every penny as it took all of 10 minutes of my time and all plug in play.
Same here. Have had it for ~2 yrs now, and it still works perfectly.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Same here. Have had it for ~2 yrs now, and it still works perfectly.
You are lucky - after mine blew apart, I checked it out thoroughly - poor crimps, wire too large for the terminals and look at the ends of the wire -are those neat and straight?

Is this acceptable? I'd never ever let work out of my shop looking like this.
I'd use the proper size and type of wire, and ends properly crimped with the correct tool.
The wire is stiff, heavy and, well, take a look.......

Jeep Gladiator Reverse camera license plate light bleed - my fix 1770425784557-54


Jeep Gladiator Reverse camera license plate light bleed - my fix PXL_20250328_191351431
Jeep Gladiator Reverse camera license plate light bleed - my fix PXL_20250328_191402751
 

Jeeper44mag

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You are lucky - after mine blew apart, I checked it out thoroughly - poor crimps, wire too large for the terminals and look at the ends of the wire -are those neat and straight?

Is this acceptable? I'd never ever let work out of my shop looking like this.
I'd use the proper size and type of wire, and ends properly crimped with the correct tool.
Mine looked NOTHING like that! Mine at least appeared to be very well made. Good connections, with everything well taped up. Super easy plug & play. Maybe yours was made by someone else?
 

ShadowsPapa

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Mine looked NOTHING like that! Mine at least appeared to be very well made. Good connections, with everything well taped up. Super easy plug & play. Maybe yours was made by someone else?
Nope - the exact link as posted on these forums a few times. The one seller on eBay.
I verified the source with another forum member and he said yeah, it's the same one............
 

Jeeper44mag

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Nope - the exact link as posted on these forums a few times. The one seller on eBay.
I verified the source with another forum member and he said yeah, it's the same one............
Well... that sucks. Either he's cutting corners, or subbing the work out then. 🙁

I was very happy with mine when it arrived. Was a 10-15 minute plug & play, and it's worked perfectly for ~30k miles now.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Well... that sucks. Either he's cutting corners, or subbing the work out then. 🙁

I was very happy with mine when it arrived. Was a 10-15 minute plug & play, and it's worked perfectly for ~30k miles now.
Bottom line - I'm glad it's working and you are happy and hope you do have continued good luck with it.
Agree - it's a really SIMPLE install/solution.
 

Jeeper44mag

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Bottom line - I'm glad it's working and you are happy and hope you do have continued good luck with it.
Agree - it's a really SIMPLE install/solution.
Thank you sir. I'm sorry to hear your experience wasn't as fortunate as mine.
 

DailyDrivenTJ

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Is this acceptable? I'd never ever let work out of my shop looking like this.
I'd use the proper size and type of wire, and ends properly crimped with the correct tool.
The wire is stiff, heavy and, well, take a look.......

1770425784557-54.webp


PXL_20250328_191351431.webp
PXL_20250328_191402751.webp
That is not good. I wouldn't let that slide. You should reach out to the guy see what he has to say. The response would be helpful for the future buyers.

I purchased the connectors separately to make a few of these and decided to be lazy instead when I found this guy selling it.
 

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Rear light mod undone.webp


If you have any questions, shout!
It would be helpful if you edit your original posting and include this detail there, so the potential DIYers are not searching through posts to see the important bits.
 
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It would be helpful if you edit your original posting and include this detail there, so the potential DIYers are not searching through posts to see the important bits.
Done! Have added a note at the top of my first post linking to the reply on this page.
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