Rock Krawler 3" X Factor JT System

[desertrecon]

First, measure and ensure that both axles are centered and square under the vehicle. Ensure that the thick rear spring pad is on the passenger side and the thin one is on the driver side, both should have the thickest part towards the rear. After that, ensure that sway bar end links match left to right, fronts and rears will be different lengths but left/right should match.

That'll cover about 98% of lean issues. We can dig deeper if need be but more than likely your lean is in those details.

Thanks for the clarification, we will re-measure the sway bars end links and check on the spring pad.

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[Rock Krawler Suspension]

I am looking at the 3” kits. I’m looking at gradually upgrading to the pro-x as I get the time. I have a few questions:
1) is the difference between the max travel and X factor the front UCA’s and rear LCA’s being included in the X Factor or are there other differences? What is the functional difference in having the additional control arms?
2) If I were to run factory shocks what effect would that have? How would shock mount extensions help? What size would be optimal?
3) since the goal is to get to the Triangulated 4 link and not use the rear track bar is there a more economical way not purchase the rear track bar such as running the factory rear track bar. I see many kits that don’t include an adjustable rear track bar while most will include an adjustable front track bar if going over about 2” of lift. It is my understanding that this will recenter the axle under the vehicle. Is it less important to recenter the rear than the front?
4) Also I like the factory wheels. To clear 12.5” wide 37” tires I’m guessing I would need a 1.5” spacers to keep from having Clearance issues... is that correct. Also the wheel is 7.5” wide I believe. The recommended width is 8.5”. What issues might one have running a narrower rim than recommended?

Great, thanks.

1) Yes, the only difference between Max Travel and X Factor is the addition of Front Uppers and Rear Lowers with the X factor. The gain is greater adjustability and removing the rubber factory control arm bushings everywhere except the front upper at the axle. This gets rid of the inherent distortion that the rubber bushings have.

2) Factory shocks simply wont have enough down travel to accommodate the lift. If you want to run extensions, you'll want to match the lift height, so in this case, 3" would be ideal.

3) Neither the X Factor or the Max Travel include a rear track bar, they both use a track bar relocation bracket. We have an adjustable rear that could be added if desired but in your case, I wouldn't.

4) Factory wheels have a back space of 6.25", to achieve 4.5" you'll want a 1.75" spacer. The challenge is that when you mount a wide tire on a narrow wheel, you "balloon" the tire more and the 4.5" back space rule goes out the window. You'll probably want to look more at a 2" spacer at that point. The other downside of wide tires on narrow wheels is that you'll have to run lower pressures to form a complete contact patch.

 

[e36racer]

Good to hear about the ride. What shocks are you using?

I'm using the standard RK shocks.

 

[aw2657]

I ordered the RK 3” kit for my Gladiator just over a month ago. At that time the installation instructions online said to use RK 000 grease during installation so I ordered a tube from Northridge along with my lift kit. Now when I go online and read the latest directions the newer kits after Jan “x” they say to use standard grease. Will the the 000 grease I purchased work or be any better than the standard grease? I don’t want to prematurely wear out any components and standard grease is cheap. Just want to use the right stuff. Thanks!

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

I ordered the RK 3” kit for my Gladiator just over a month ago. At that time the installation instructions online said to use RK 000 grease during installation so I ordered a tube from Northridge along with my lift kit. Now when I go online and read the latest directions the newer kits after Jan “x” they say to use standard grease. Will the the 000 grease I purchased work or be any better than the standard grease? I don’t want to prematurely wear out any components and standard grease is cheap. Just want to use the right stuff. Thanks!

NLGI#1 or numerically less is what you want to use. 000 will be fine but is no longer required since the raceways changed. The instructions were held back by 7 months to ensure that all of our retailers sold through old stock before we changed since the 000 will not harm the new joints but the NLGI#1 will harm the old joints.

In my personal vehicles and our company vehicles, we use Mobil EP-1 for joint maintenance.

 

[SCUBATIM81]

NLGI#1 or numerically less is what you want to use. 000 will be fine but is no longer required since the raceways changed. The instructions were held back by 7 months to ensure that all of our retailers sold through old stock before we changed since the 000 will not harm the new joints but the NLGI#1 will harm the old joints.

In my personal vehicles and our company vehicles, we use Mobil EP-1 for joint maintenance.

Is there an identifying characteristic we can use to determine the version of our joints?

 

[mghoodlum]

Is there an identifying characteristic we can use to determine the version of our joints?

Black set screws are older gen, Stainless set screws are newer gen.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Is there an identifying characteristic we can use to determine the version of our joints?

As @mghoodlum said, Black set screws=old style. Silver set screws=new style.

 

[mghoodlum]

As @mghoodlum said, Black set screws=old style. Silver set screws=new style.

I had a whole bunch of questions on joints, setup, etc and started to ask them in this forum and found RK’s YouTube Channel that answered most of my questions. I picked that up the difference in a video I watched recently! Also it is easy to move to the newer setup when you rebuild it only involves changing the raceways in the krawler joints! Check out the YouTube channel. I have found it very informative!

 

[SCUBATIM81]

I had a whole bunch of questions on joints, setup, etc and started to ask them in this forum and found RK’s YouTube Channel that answered most of my questions. I picked that up the difference in a video I watched recently! Also it is easy to move to the newer setup when you rebuild it only involves changing the raceways in the krawler joints! Check out the YouTube channel. I have found it very informative!

Subscribing now Thanks!

 

[mghoodlum]

I finished installing the lift today. I started yesterday afternoon and finished this evening. I pretty much completed it all myself with a couple of floor jacks and a couple of sets of jack stands. Next up, new wheels and tires!

 

[mghoodlum]

I wanted to give my first impressions of the lift. First installation instructions were good. I only ran into one or two small items to work through. Overall great job on the instructions though.

When I first got in to drive I felt the suspension was much firmer. I was actually worried I might not like how it rode. Today I drove about 300 miles of 95% interstate and while it is a firmer ride the truck handles much better. I found myself doing 85+ a couple of times when in the past the way the truck would just kinda float over the road would scare me at those speeds enough to slow down. Similar story on taking high speed turns. The truck felt more connected to the ground for a sportier ride than stock. All in all I would say it is a vast improvement over stock. I can’t wait to get it out on the rocks and see how it handles.

Before I got on the highway, I took it in for an alignment. I gave them RK’s recommendation for caster however they did not adjust it as they said they couldn’t break the control arm jam nuts. I’m thinking they didn’t try very hard though. I ask them what angle the caster was at and they told me 7 degrees on both sides. Recommended is between 5.0 and 6.25 with +0.2 to 0.4 on the passenger side.

@Rock Krawler Suspension What effect will having this additional angle have on caster? Also what is the purpose of having the passenger side at a higher angle than driver?

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

I wanted to give my first impressions of the lift. First installation instructions were good. I only ran into one or two small items to work through. Overall great job on the instructions though.

When I first got in to drive I felt the suspension was much firmer. I was actually worried I might not like how it rode. Today I drove about 300 miles of 95% interstate and while it is a firmer ride the truck handles much better. I found myself doing 85+ a couple of times when in the past the way the truck would just kinda float over the road would scare me at those speeds enough to slow down. Similar story on taking high speed turns. The truck felt more connected to the ground for a sportier ride than stock. All in all I would say it is a vast improvement over stock. I can’t wait to get it out on the rocks and see how it handles.

Before I got on the highway, I took it in for an alignment. I gave them RK’s recommendation for caster however they did not adjust it as they said they couldn’t break the control arm jam nuts. I’m thinking they didn’t try very hard though. I ask them what angle the caster was at and they told me 7 degrees on both sides. Recommended is between 5.0 and 6.25 with +0.2 to 0.4 on the passenger side.

@Rock Krawler Suspension What effect will having this additional angle have on caster? Also what is the purpose of having the passenger side at a higher angle than driver?

I'm glad you're liking it.

Having caster in the ~7* range can create pinion bind when at speed, in 4 wheel drive and the axle is drooped. Some manufacturers even recommend 7* on JL/JT so, I wouldn't worry too much but if they're breaking jam nuts by loosening them, I'm impressed.

The premise of cross caster is to simply account for road crown. most roads are graded towards the shoulder and that grade will make the vehicle want to turn down hill. Without cross caster, you'll always hold the wheel slightly left to go straight on a crowned road. With cross caster, we trick the jeep into wanting to lightly turn left so when it is on a crowned road, it drives straight without steering input. Jeep knows this and they build cross caster into your front axle when they weld the tubes into it. If you're in an area that sees heavy rain, the roads are crowned more and you'll want to run more cross caster. If you're in the desert, the roads are crowned less and you'll want to run less cross caster.

 

[aw2657]

@Rock Krawler Suspension I am getting ready to install the
Rock Krawler 3in Max Travel Suspension System - Stage 1 kit on my Overland this weekend. I don't plan on doing any crazy rock crawling (yet) but I wanted to start with a good quality base lift and grow from there. After looking at what was in the kit I'm thinking of adding rear lower control arms while I'm at it but mainly for the looks. After spending all that money for parts tucked up underneath that you can't even see.... I want to be able to walk up to my lifted truck and see some nice clean RK parts hanging out from underneath. I know, I know.....sounds stupid right? Is there any advantage or need for adding the lower control arms? I know I can adjust the upper rear control arms to set pinion angle but the lower would only move the wheel back in the wheel well which I'm not sure is necessary with only a 3" lift. Also... what would be the correct rear control arm since most of the kits are all X factor in the rear? Thanks!

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

@Rock Krawler Suspension I am getting ready to install the
Rock Krawler 3in Max Travel Suspension System - Stage 1 kit on my Overland this weekend. I don't plan on doing any crazy rock crawling (yet) but I wanted to start with a good quality base lift and grow from there. After looking at what was in the kit I'm thinking of adding rear lower control arms while I'm at it but mainly for the looks. After spending all that money for parts tucked up underneath that you can't even see.... I want to be able to walk up to my lifted truck and see some nice clean RK parts hanging out from underneath. I know, I know.....sounds stupid right? Is there any advantage or need for adding the lower control arms? I know I can adjust the upper rear control arms to set pinion angle but the lower would only move the wheel back in the wheel well which I'm not sure is necessary with only a 3" lift. Also... what would be the correct rear control arm since most of the kits are all X factor in the rear? Thanks!

The rear lowers offer a few advantages, obviously strength but also joint misalignment and the reduction of bushing distortion. This created more crisp, clean handling on the road and easier movement of the suspension offroad. You can also push the axle back to the factory position with the lowers, rather than it moving forward with the lift and stock lowers.

The part number you'd be looking for is RK07380

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