Rough ride

[Nick83]

So back in early 2020 I got a new Gladiator Sport that currently has 14k miles, I did the Mopar 2in lift that was dealer installed and put 35s (@33psi) on it a few weeks after purchasing. Also did the recall for the steering gear.

The Jeep looks beautiful but I have to admit I've always been pretty disappointed of the quality of the ride since then. I remember thinking in the first few days It wasn't lifted and stock tires it just soaked up all the bumps and was a really smooth ride.

I just test drove a 23 Mohave and was shocked how much better of a ride it was and can't help to think I ruined my Jeep by lifting it and wheels and tires.

Its a chore to drive on the highway. Jeep just feels really heavy now, both hands have to be on the wheel to keep it straight, feel every bump. Can this be fixed? Im assuming getting some of those fancy larger shocks with reservoir might solve it? I use to adore this truck but kind of want to either get a new Gladiator and keep it stock or try out a Tacoma next year. Any advice would be appreciated

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[Lunentucker]

The Mojave is built up to ride smoother than any other trim.
What load range are they?
I run 28 cold in my 35/12.5/17 K02'S and they ride and wear great.
They're load range C.

 

[Nick83]

Running 33psi and also load range C. I mean the Mojave has the 2.5"shocks and reservoir 1in lift in the front, reenforced frame and a different bump stop. I imagine of all those things its the shocks, lower center of gravity than me and smaller and lighter wheels are attributing to the better ride.

 

[Lunentucker]

Try 28 cold. It won't make it a Mojave, but it will certainly give you some improvement.

 

[Lunentucker]

Its a chore to drive on the highway. Jeep just feels really heavy now, both hands have to be on the wheel to keep it straight, feel every bump.

Some of this is from the lift and how it alters how road impacts are transferred into the frame instead of into the shocks and springs.
The Mopar lift came with longer control arms to keep caster in spec, but they don't get your suspension geometry back into spec.

A set of relocation brackets will benefit you in drivability and make the vehicle tend to stay straighter on the road.
This video explains it all.
Rancho | Control Arm Geometry Correction Brackets for Jeep Wrangler JK/JL - YouTube

I actually went one hole past recommended on mine, and it drives amazingly well.

Since it's had the steering gearbox upgrade you may also want to check the Pitman arm nut and make sure it's properly torqued.
also check the steering gearbox bolts. (99 ft pounds)
One member posted a video showing that his was only hand tight after the dealer replaced the gearbox. It's supposed to be about 184 foot pounds and with red Loctite.





While you're going through things, check your ball joints, drag link, trackbar, and control arms for proper torque and no "slop"
Here's a good steering checkup.
Death Wobble: Identified, Explained, ELIMINATED! - YouTube



If you're still running the factory stabilizer, now might be a good time to upgrade that as well.
Falcon Nexus or Fox are generally what folks here use. Get the pass-thru design.
https://www.offroadelements.com/ter...ing-stabilizer-wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt-2018/

Oh yeah.
The Metalcloak sector shaft brace is great too.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...me-0-updated-1-7-23.57677/page-7#post-1083182

 

[Nick83]

wow thanks a ton, this is a lot of really good information

 

[Trauma PA]

So back in early 2020 I got a new Gladiator Sport that currently has 14k miles, I did the Mopar 2in lift that was dealer installed and put 35s (@33psi) on it a few weeks after purchasing. Also did the recall for the steering gear.

The Jeep looks beautiful but I have to admit I've always been pretty disappointed of the quality of the ride since then. I remember thinking in the first few days It wasn't lifted and stock tires it just soaked up all the bumps and was a really smooth ride.

I just test drove a 23 Mohave and was shocked how much better of a ride it was and can't help to think I ruined my Jeep by lifting it and wheels and tires.

Its a chore to drive on the highway. Jeep just feels really heavy now, both hands have to be on the wheel to keep it straight, feel every bump. Can this be fixed? Im assuming getting some of those fancy larger shocks with reservoir might solve it? I use to adore this truck but kind of want to either get a new Gladiator and keep it stock or try out a Tacoma next year. Any advice would be appreciated

The Mopar is not a complete lift is why your ride quality now suffers. You need at least a new front adjustable track bar and a rear track bar bracket as well as new front lower control arms or geometry correction brackets. These are easy fixes and a lot cheaper than bailing on your Jeep and buying a new one.

 

[JTenn]

The Mopar is not a complete lift is why your ride quality now suffers. You need at least a new front adjustable track bar and a rear track bar bracket as well as new front lower control arms or geometry correction brackets. These are easy fixes and a lot cheaper than bailing on your Jeep and buying a new one.

The Mopar kit comes with longer front lower LCA's. At least the 2 I bought and installed did. +1 on the adjustable track bars.

 

[OHJeeper]

I'll second @Lunentucker on the Rancho brackets. Before you go out and buy track bars, adjustable LCA's and a ton of other gear, try the brackets for a couple hundred bucks. The more parallel the LCA's are to the ground, the less shock is transferred into the frame (and your butt). The brackets correct not only caster, but the parallelism of the LCA's.

There is a YT video somewhere of a guy who explained this phenomenon using a broomstick. Using the non-broom end, hold it at a 45 degree angle and try and push it across a rough surface, like an asphalt driveway - you'll feel every bump and it's hard to push. Lower the broomstick closer to level with the ground and it glides right over. That's a somewhat exaggerated version of what's happening when you lift the Jeep and the LCA's start to angle more.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

I'll second @Lunentucker on the Rancho brackets. Before you go out and buy track bars, adjustable LCA's and a ton of other gear, try the brackets for a couple hundred bucks. The more parallel the LCA's are to the ground, the less shock is transferred into the frame (and your butt). The brackets correct not only caster, but the parallelism of the LCA's.

There is a YT video somewhere of a guy who explained this phenomenon using a broomstick. Using the non-broom end, hold it at a 45 degree angle and try and push it across a rough surface, like an asphalt driveway - you'll feel every bump and it's hard to push. Lower the broomstick closer to level with the ground and it glides right over. That's a somewhat exaggerated version of what's happening when you lift the Jeep and the LCA's start to angle more.

Here’s the video you’re referencing. Great YouTube channel overall too. The broomstick example is at the 7 minute mark OP

 

[ATL_Rubi]

Some of this is from the lift and how it alters how road impacts are transferred into the frame instead of into the shocks and springs.
The Mopar lift came with longer control arms to keep caster in spec, but they don't get your suspension geometry back into spec.

A set of relocation brackets will benefit you in drivability and make the vehicle tend to stay straighter on the road.
This video explains it all.
Rancho | Control Arm Geometry Correction Brackets for Jeep Wrangler JK/JL - YouTube

I actually went one hole past recommended on mine, and it drives amazingly well.

Since it's had the steering gearbox upgrade you may also want to check the Pitman arm nut and make sure it's properly torqued.
also check the steering gearbox bolts. (99 ft pounds)
One member posted a video showing that his was only hand tight after the dealer replaced the gearbox. It's supposed to be about 184 foot pounds and with red Loctite.





While you're going through things, check your ball joints, drag link, trackbar, and control arms for proper torque and no "slop"
Here's a good steering checkup.
Death Wobble: Identified, Explained, ELIMINATED! - YouTube



If you're still running the factory stabilizer, now might be a good time to upgrade that as well.
Falcon Nexus or Fox are generally what folks here use. Get the pass-thru design.
https://www.offroadelements.com/ter...ing-stabilizer-wrangler-jl-gladiator-jt-2018/

Oh yeah.
The Metalcloak sector shaft brace is great too.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...me-0-updated-1-7-23.57677/page-7#post-1083182

Everything here is spot on and will likely fix your issues.

 

[Trauma PA]

The Mopar kit comes with longer front lower LCA's. At least the 2 I bought and installed did. +1 on the adjustable track bars.

It does, they are marginally longer than stock. Still think he’d do better with either adjustable control arms or the geometry correction brackets.

 

[HorneyBadger]

First, what 35's did you get? AT's? MT's? The tire can be the cause on some of this.

Second, even with the longer OEM LCA's that come with the 2" mopar lift, the castor can be out. Mine was 4.0 on the right and 4.5 on the left so I went with Adjustable LCA's to get the castor more even. Push it to 5 on both sides. Some people like push it out more.

Third, what sport did you get? regular, max tow? 35's and 3.73 gears will make it a dog. Went with 4.56 gears on my Overland and took care of that issue.

 

[AmosMoses]

I didn't like the factory sport shocks and springs and swapped them out with rubi shocks and springs and was much happier with the added stiffness. Factory shocks and springs were just too bouncy.

 

[HooliganActual]

I didn't like the factory sport shocks and springs and swapped them out with rubi shocks and springs and was much happier with the added stiffness. Factory shocks and springs were just too bouncy.

FWIW, he’s not on factory suspension. He had the Mopar Performance lift with Fox Shocks installed…

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