Seat Heaters Not Working - Fuses are OK

[Hootbro]

I am with @DylanM , need to check power and ground going to the module. I would expect error codes if can bus related.

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[HereWeGo]

Thanks for the feedback. This is getting out of my league. Have no idea what a comm bus or center stack is. No need to explain, tho. I'll check power and ground tomorrow. I have my RedArc BCDC tapped to the driver side fuse and the RedArc works fine, so I'm leaning on the power being fine, but I'll check it out. Thanks!

 

[Hootbro]

Not trying to dog pile on you but if basic DC electrical theory is not something you can pick up, you are going to be spinning your wheels trying to make heads or tails of this.

I would disregard the switch back lighting in figuring this out as that is a totally separate circuit that obviously has power going to it. You have to check the steering module inputs for power 12vdc for the two inputs for the heated seats and the one input for the steering wheel heat. If that checks good, then I would be checking continuity on the ground wire.

You got to split the problem in half to figure out which way to go of either chasing power or ground.

Good luck.

 

[mtudb24]

I'm just the opposite. My seats both work but 1 day my heated steering wheel will work and the next day it will turn on for 3 seconds and shut off. Then the next day it will work. Thankfully its warming up here and I don't need to use it anymore. Will have to figure it out for next fall though.

 

[HereWeGo]

Got a new OBDII reader that reads that module. I get code U120E-00, which is "lost communication with Comfort Seat and Wheel Module". I'll take @Hootbro advice and not try to diagnose electrical stuff any further. Time for it to go to the dealer. I appreciate everyone's feedback.

 

[ArcticDreadnought]

Good luck. *wishes for days when it was just a metal key, a physical throttle body and a timing belt*

 

[In3briatedPanda]

Mystery with drivers side . mine works but stoped coming on automatically below 39 degrees. manually works fine , is set to work in the radio . Went in and checked everything with alfaOBD and everything I can find says its all set to work . I gave up , I hate electrical issues . Thats why I always liked basic Jeeps they had less things to go wrong electrically until they started making them appeal to everyone

this made me think oif somehting my boss says.

"Everyone likes technology, until they have to pay for it."

at the time, he was referencing AFS (auto leveling feature in headlights) and how expensive headlights had become.

I am thankful that i am more electrically inclined vs mechanically. No, i will not elaborate. lmao .

 

[Hootbro]

Got a new OBDII reader that reads that module. I get code U120E-00, which is "lost communication with Comfort Seat and Wheel Module". I'll take @Hootbro advice and not try to diagnose electrical stuff any further. Time for it to go to the dealer. I appreciate everyone's feedback.

Too bad you were not local to me as I would gladly help you with this as it probably at best 30 minutes with a multimeter to have it figured out.

At a minimum, you know it is not the module and I would suggest letting the dealer know that you slaved into your JL and it worked. 90% sure it is going to be power/ground related. The fact that both the seats and steering wheel down makes me lean more towards the TIPM/Fuse Box area.

Please update the thread once you have it looked at and hopefully fixed. Could help others that come across this thread.

 

[HereWeGo]

I FIGURED IT OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I feel dumb now. I tapped F57 for a signal to the RedArc because I needed a fuse that is only powered when the engine is running. I unplugged the tap, and now the heaters work. I don't know why the tap causes them to be inoperable. That should have been the first thing I did to troubleshoot. Dumb*ass...

Now to find another fuse to tap.

 

[Hootbro]

Are you using a fuse tap like pictured here? You have to have both fuses in to make it work for both the device you are powering and the circuit you are tapping into.

 

[Hootbro]

I would suggest Fuse F52 for the power outlets for a switched power.

 

[HereWeGo]

Are you using a fuse tap like pictured here? You have to have both fuses in to make it work for both the device you are powering and the circuit you are tapping into.

There was only one fuse in the tap. I can't believe I wired this entire rig by myself and pull a dumb mistake like that. Thank you!!

I originally used F52, but found out that when in ACC mode, the Redarc BCDC will go into charge mode and draw from the battery. I confirmed this with RedArc. They suggested using one that is powered only when engine is running, or at least when in ON position. When camping, and weather is bad, I'll sit in the cab to listen to the radio. Don't want to draw down my battery,

Thanks again for your (and everyone's) help. Problem solved.

 

[Jteakus]

Everyone makes mistakes. At least you caught it before you got robbed at dealer service. Thanks for sharing the whole story.

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