Single or two piece axle?

[Flyin6]

Decision made.

I just ordered the Yukon rear axles and the RCV front (FAD) units. I feel this is a good choice addressing all concerns.

Next up is to find a front truss and get the brake system coming.

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[Stan H]

Another vote for 2 piece RCV . The locking ring they use is sturdier heavier and smoother
Will save gas mileage and reduce unnecessary rotation of shafts .

 

[rharr]

Decision made.

I just ordered the Yukon rear axles and the RCV front (FAD) units. I feel this is a good choice addressing all concerns.

Next up is to find a front truss and get the brake system coming.

Artec has a nice truss kit at a good price, they are on my list of upgrades

 

[Flyin6]

Artec has a nice truss kit at a good price, they are on my list of upgrades

Atrec truss just ordered!

After ordering the axle shafts, I called a friend Shawn who owns Great Lakes Off Road. He builds axles and other things. He pointed me to Artec...Done deal ;-)

 

[Flyin6]

Just hit a snag.

Reference the Tera Flex brake kit.

They require 4.75" back spacing or less.

The Borah wheels have 5.72" B.S.!

Shucks!!!

 

[Stan H]

Just hit a snag.

Reference the Tera Flex brake kit.

They require 4.75" back spacing or less.

The Borah wheels have 5.72" B.S.!

Shucks!!!

Or Less ??

 

[RodRecket]

Just hit a snag.

Reference the Tera Flex brake kit.

They require 4.75" back spacing or less.

The Borah wheels have 5.72" B.S.!

Shucks!!!

I hit a similar snag with my RK long arm kit. I'm running a hubcentric 1.5" spacer for now. Exploring other wheel options for the long term. 17x9 with 4.5" BS seems to be the most common wheel spec in a beadlock. I found one KMC wheel 17x8.5 w/ 4.75 BS

A thought regarding the brakes is going to a better pad/rotor/steel brake lines. It will improve your braking while being able to maintain a stock caliper. May not be the answer your looking for though.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Just hit a snag.

Reference the Tera Flex brake kit.

They require 4.75" back spacing or less.

The Borah wheels have 5.72" B.S.!

Shucks!!!

Did you talk to AEV yet? I wonder what they use on their builds for big brakes? A different brake kit, or wheels that are not AEV?

 

[n0arp]

Seriously

A thought regarding the brakes is going to a better pad/rotor/steel brake lines. It will improve your braking while being able to maintain a stock caliper. May not be the answer your looking for though.

Seriously. EBC Extra Duty pads and stainless lines provide more than enough stopping power for heavy 40s.

 

[Flyin6]

I hit a similar snag with my RK long arm kit. I'm running a hubcentric 1.5" spacer for now. Exploring other wheel options for the long term. 17x9 with 4.5" BS seems to be the most common wheel spec in a beadlock. I found one KMC wheel 17x8.5 w/ 4.75 BS

A thought regarding the brakes is going to a better pad/rotor/steel brake lines. It will improve your braking while being able to maintain a stock caliper. May not be the answer your looking for though.

I'm not changing wheels, I just bolted these on last month, so there's that.

Regarding the brakes, I think I'll look at the setup you are running. Maybe that would solve for the overheating issues I have experienced. Aside from that the 1.5" spacers could also work.

 

[Flyin6]

Or Less ??

As in the back space number needs to be less than 4.75". As in a wheel with 4" or 3.5" BS would fit.

 

[Flyin6]

Did you talk to AEV yet? I wonder what they use on their builds for big brakes? A different brake kit, or wheels that are not AEV?

I own a JT370 as you can see, and it looks to me as though the brakes are stock, not upgraded. Looking at the JT370 specs, brakes are not addressed.

 

[Figmo]

The problem I've always had with the "moves the breakage point to the next weakest link in the drivetrain" logic is that people overlook the fact that, by definition, "the next weakest link" is stronger than the previous weakest link.

So yeah - bit of a pain to fix when it grenades - but don't overlook the fact that it's less likely to grenade. Which has also brings value to the equation.

 

[Flyin6]

The problem I've always had with the "moves the breakage point to the next weakest link in the drivetrain" logic is that people overlook the fact that, by definition, "the next weakest link" is stronger than the previous weakest link.

So yeah - bit of a pain to fix when it grenades - but don't overlook the fact that it's less likely to grenade. Which has also brings value to the equation.

Correct and I get that
Additionally I have used a bunch of D44s over the years, and have never broken one yet. I've broken 9" fords, 8.8" ford. Toyota 8.?" twice, a 14 bolt, and something in the back end of my tractor. But no Dana 44s!

 

[Stan H]

As in the back space number needs to be less than 4.75". As in a wheel with 4" or 3.5" BS would fit.

Less back space is going to make it fit even worse you need more back spacing not less. The portion the bolts to the hub is always going to be the same distance from the rotor and the brake caliper . What your saying does not compute. More back space negative -12 is about 4.50 ....-13 is 4.75 of backspace. Which puts the dish further away from the tie rods , frame, this keep the tire from rubbing the sway bar end links etc..
If I was you I would go back and read up on wether they say that 3.75 or whatever Back spacing is the minimum in my brain 5.72 makes your tire stick way out

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