SOLVED: Broke my Gladiator by drilling into wires

[ShadowsPapa]

The Navy likes solder. The Air force like crimps. I'm not surprised they are dirrerent.

Here's how (aircraft specs). I've never seen a solder joint like this. Everybody seems to think the more solder, the better.

And if you are really OCD:
AC 21-99 Aircraft Wiring and Bonding (aircraftspruce.com)

Happy New year to all!

That looks like the Western Union joint I was taught in electronics classes............... It's physically very strong.
more isn't better. I hate gobbed up solder jobs. That joint minimizes heat to the insulation and will be very strong and will conduct just as much if not more than the gauge of wire being joined.
You run good quality heat shrink over that and you have a tight, small joint like I used for my car harnesses and repairs.

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[Jimmy07]

You fixed it! The windshield wiper stopped as soon as I replaced the fuse. All the steering wheel controls function now. The only remaining problem is the dash saying to service traction control. I'll see if I can clear that code and if it stays away.

That’ll probably clear after a few drive cycles.

 

[Saltymedic]

Yay Jimmy07 !!!

Way to go!

 

[Kevin_D]

For solder joints, I use a Western Union joint where possible ...

A Western Union knot or splice, in case you’re curious.

Kevin

 

[Dewyaw]

You fixed it! The windshield wiper stopped as soon as I replaced the fuse. All the steering wheel controls function now. The only remaining problem is the dash saying to service traction control. I'll see if I can clear that code and if it stays away.

Fantastic!! Been monitoring this thread...great news!


Oh, By the way, as an unbiased neutral observer, in AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATIONS, crimping wins!!!

 

[MrZappo]

Great news in the fix.

Couple of thoughts. Id have to guess the navy likes solder due to the salty environment? I'd guess crimps could corrode easier if compromised?

Also, I thought another nice splice I learned about was called a line man's splice. I've used those with good success.

A few good YouTube vids of that method for the wiring snobs to watch. I'm a proud member.

 

[mike921921]

The Navy likes solder. The Air force like crimps. I'm not surprised they are dirrerent.

Here's how (aircraft specs). I've never seen a solder joint like this. Everybody seems to think the more solder, the better.

And if you are really OCD:
AC 21-99 Aircraft Wiring and Bonding (aircraftspruce.com)

Happy New year to all!

Yeah, we had a Navy guy in the shop - a true believer in 'the bigger the blob the better the job' ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Big blob indicates not just too much solder - but not the right heat in the right place. Solder will "soak" onto the wire like water on paper.
I'd hate to think of your guy soldering water pipes! Yikes. Solder will actually rise up to follow the heat.

 

[Jimmy07]

Oh, By the way, as an unbiased neutral observer, in AUTOMOTIVE APPLICATIONS, crimping wins!!!

Bottom line...^^ this right here^^. You will RARELY EVER see a soldered splice in the “field” of an OEM automotive harness nowadays. There’s a situation for everything, but the proper type and material of this type of splice, with the correct w crimp and heat shrink is what is standard when an OEM harness is built.

 

[mazeppa]

<SNIP>

But the sleeve spreads stresses out over some distance.

I recommend some form of stress relief.

<SNIP>

Yes! Either with solder joint or a crimp (mechanical) joint, stress relief it is very important spread across the the soft wire and rigid joint.

 

[Lateralus]

Glad you figured it out. This thread may help someone in the future!

 

[jeephambikepcpets]

SOLVED

Environment:
- 2021 Jeep Gladiator Sport

History:
- Problem started after drilling into a bundle of overhead wires to install the JcrOffroad JL/JT Overhead MOLLE Panel.
- I followed these instructions, minus the part about not drilling into any wires:

Symptoms:
- Windshield wipers run and cannot be turned off.
- The horn still works, but all other steering wheel controls are unresponsive, including turn signal, windshield wipers, cruise control, radio volume and controls, and the up/down/left/right/OK buttons.
- The service engine light is on and says something like "service traction control system".
- An OBDII scanner reported something like "communication lost with steering column control module."

Causes:
- My drilling into the wire harness severed CAN bus wires (blue twisted pair) and likely shorted it to at least one other wire (red with a blue stripe).
- The shorted wires blew the 10 amp micro blade fuse number F89, which powers both the steering column control module and overhead console.

Resolution:
- Disconnect the positive terminal from both the main battery and the stop/start battery.
- Repair the damaged wires with a clean solder splice and heat shrink tubing. Maintain same twist rate, and ensure the CAN bus wires are of equal length after the splice.
- Check for blown fuses and replace the 10 amp micro blade fuse number F89. Notice the windshield wiper blades finally stop moving and all the steering wheel controls work again.
- Clear the engine failure codes with an OBDII scanner.

Kudos:
- @LostWoods for referring me to BAM Wholesale for the specific replacement part, even though in the end, the order got canceled.
- @mountainpass for the suggestion to wrap the nicked wires.
- @Blade1668 for the moral support.
- @Troybilt for seconding the suggestion to replace the wire harness and the humor.
- @MrZappo for kind yet frank suggestion that my soldering job would likely not pass muster.
- @PDiddy for the suggestion to save money getting a car audio installer to try the repairs. This suggestion reminded me that I had friends in the ham radio community with soldering skills I could reach out to.
- @Emptypockets for the suggestion to check the fuses. I wish I had listened and properly checked the fuses when it was suggested. I did a visual check looking for burn marks and didn't see any, but that was the wrong way to check these kinds of fuses. For all I know, my first CAN bus splice attempts might have worked, but I wouldn't have known it until I checked the fuses. I had to learn how to properly test the fuses for this task.
- @WaterDR for the suggestion to go back in time and just never drill into the overhead console. And then accurately predicting it would be a $0.50 part and $500 effort.
- @Kevin_D for the guidance on proper CAN bus repair technique.
- @athous for the Amazon link for the set of Solder Seal Wire Connectors kit. I didn't end up using them for this repair, but I did order the kit for future use.
- @StingGrayJT24 for sharing his similar tale involving wire-chewing rats, and for the suggestion to see if repairs could be covered under a comprehensive auto insurance claim.
- @redrider for suggesting snakes to control the rat problem.
- @Summitsearcher for the empathy and suggestion to search out bolt-on products instead of anything that requires drilling.
- @eaglerugby04 for the laughs with the North American Fiber-Seeking Backhoe.
- @Kindafearless for the suggestion to own a battery-powered soldering iron and heat gun to make clean solder splices possible. And for a very cleverly worded post that was both funny and almost made me cry with much-needed words of comfort and reassurance.
- @punk'n for seconding the suggestion to use solder seal connectors.
- @Jaxmax for soberly explaining this is not the time to learn to solder and get help to do it right this time, and for kind and reassuring words after I applied Jimmy's fix.
- @ZTMAN for the suggestion to check on my homeowners insurance deductible in case this gets expensive.
- @Overloaded for asking whether I saw any smoke after the repairs.
- @ShadowsPapa for cringing at my initial crimp repair and relating his story of having to re-run hundreds of feet of cable for IBM because of one little kink. And for piling onto the solder-vs-crimp flame war that came later.
- @Gatorized for the switch and fuse check suggestions.
- @mike921921 for pointing out the moment in the manufacturer's video where it said not to drill into the wires.
- @Jimmy07 for taking the time to cross-reference my photos and symptoms with actual schematics and accurately predicting it would be the F89 fuse that blew, plus many other smart suggestions along the way.
- @Factoid for the sobering suggestion I may have burned out some modules. And then joining the solder-vs-crimp flame war that came later.
- @Andy29847 for helping start a flame war subthread by stating crimp connections are better than soldered connections and then further fanning the flames with the "google is your friend" line. I did appreciate the link to the fuse layout though.
- @GoVR46 for taking the flame war bait and escalating the thread.
- @WK2JT for the suggestion to check a salvage yard for a replacement wiring harness.

Last words:
- I was just sick with stress and worry and all of you were very generous with your time and kind with your comments. I felt ashamed and vulnerable and your reassurance and empathy touched my heart and were food for my soul. I really needed that. Thank you!

 

[PDiddy]

SOLVED

Environment:
- 2021 Jeep Gladiator Sport

History:
- Problem started after drilling into a bundle of overhead wires to install the JcrOffroad JL/JT Overhead MOLLE Panel.
- I followed these instructions, minus the part about not drilling into any wires:

Symptoms:
- Windshield wipers run and cannot be turned off.
- The horn still works, but all other steering wheel controls are unresponsive, including turn signal, windshield wipers, cruise control, radio volume and controls, and the up/down/left/right/OK buttons.
- The service engine light is on and says something like "service traction control system".
- An OBDII scanner reported something like "communication lost with steering column control module."

Causes:
- My drilling into the wire harness severed CAN bus wires (blue twisted pair) and likely shorted it to at least one other wire (red with a blue stripe).
- The shorted wires blew the 10 amp micro blade fuse number F89, which powers both the steering column control module and overhead console.

Resolution:
- Disconnect the positive terminal from both the main battery and the stop/start battery.
- Repair the damaged wires with a clean solder splice and heat shrink tubing. Maintain same twist rate, and ensure the CAN bus wires are of equal length after the splice.
- Check for blown fuses and replace the 10 amp micro blade fuse number F89. Notice the windshield wiper blades finally stop moving and all the steering wheel controls work again.
- Clear the engine failure codes with an OBDII scanner.

Kudos:
- @LostWoods for referring me to BAM Wholesale for the specific replacement part, even though in the end, the order got canceled.
- @mountainpass for the suggestion to wrap the nicked wires.
- @Blade1668 for the moral support.
- @Troybilt for seconding the suggestion to replace the wire harness and the humor.
- @MrZappo for kind yet frank suggestion that my soldering job would likely not pass muster.
- @PDiddy for the suggestion to save money getting a car audio installer to try the repairs. This suggestion reminded me that I had friends in the ham radio community with soldering skills I could reach out to.
- @Emptypockets for the suggestion to check the fuses. I wish I had listened and properly checked the fuses when it was suggested. I did a visual check looking for burn marks and didn't see any, but that was the wrong way to check these kinds of fuses. For all I know, my first CAN bus splice attempts might have worked, but I wouldn't have known it until I checked the fuses. I had to learn how to properly test the fuses for this task.
- @WaterDR for the suggestion to go back in time and just never drill into the overhead console. And then accurately predicting it would be a $0.50 part and $500 effort.
- @Kevin_D for the guidance on proper CAN bus repair technique.
- @athous for the Amazon link for the set of Solder Seal Wire Connectors kit. I didn't end up using them for this repair, but I did order the kit for future use.
- @StingGrayJT24 for sharing his similar tale involving wire-chewing rats, and for the suggestion to see if repairs could be covered under a comprehensive auto insurance claim.
- @redrider for suggesting snakes to control the rat problem.
- @Summitsearcher for the empathy and suggestion to search out bolt-on products instead of anything that requires drilling.
- @eaglerugby04 for the laughs with the North American Fiber-Seeking Backhoe.
- @Kindafearless for the suggestion to own a battery-powered soldering iron and heat gun to make clean solder splices possible. And for a very cleverly worded post that was both funny and almost made me cry with much-needed words of comfort and reassurance.
- @punk'n for seconding the suggestion to use solder seal connectors.
- @Jaxmax for soberly explaining this is not the time to learn to solder and get help to do it right this time, and for kind and reassuring words after I applied Jimmy's fix.
- @ZTMAN for the suggestion to check on my homeowners insurance deductible in case this gets expensive.
- @Overloaded for asking whether I saw any smoke after the repairs.
- @ShadowsPapa for cringing at my initial crimp repair and relating his story of having to re-run hundreds of feet of cable for IBM because of one little kink. And for piling onto the solder-vs-crimp flame war that came later.
- @Gatorized for the switch and fuse check suggestions.
- @mike921921 for pointing out the moment in the manufacturer's video where it said not to drill into the wires.
- @Jimmy07 for taking the time to cross-reference my photos and symptoms with actual schematics and accurately predicting it would be the F89 fuse that blew, plus many other smart suggestions along the way.
- @Factoid for the sobering suggestion I may have burned out some modules. And then joining the solder-vs-crimp flame war that came later.
- @Andy29847 for helping start a flame war subthread by stating crimp connections are better than soldered connections and then further fanning the flames with the "google is your friend" line. I did appreciate the link to the fuse layout though.
- @GoVR46 for taking the flame war bait and escalating the thread.
- @WK2JT for the suggestion to check a salvage yard for a replacement wiring harness.

Last words:
- I was just sick with stress and worry and all of you were very generous with your time and kind with your comments. I felt ashamed and vulnerable and your reassurance and empathy touched my heart and were food for my soul. I really needed that. Thank you!

So awesome to hear you figured it out. Yeah, your situation did not seem good. I love a happy ending! Lol

 

[punk'n]

We all make mistakes. But, mistakes are made to learn from and figure out how to repair.

Your mistake (and ultimate success) will certainly help the next person who makes the same mistake.

Kudos to you for following through and fixing it yourself! And thank you for following up with details of how it was resolved.

 

[Terry]

You have my sympathies Sir....... Personally, I would go to the dealer and beg forgiveness and while they are fixing it, get myself a beer... or ten.

To cheer you up.... I went to install my Christmas Gifted Mopar bed rails and the JcrOffroad Molle bed Panels and found that some of the hardware from JcrOffroad was not there... Looked in the box, looked in every baggie of parts, and half the offset brackets were not there...... Neither were installation instructions. Now before someone say's it, yes there are video instructions on their web page; however, I was unable to get my 63" big screen in the bed of the JK or the JK into my living room so there I am making notes..... I truly believe that the MORON who couldn't get the fries into the bag at your last McDonald's Drive Thru experience is the same MORON who failed to put the offset brackets into the box along with the install instructions.

There, now I feel all better. the end result of the driver's side looks great.

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