Start/Stop battery is STUPID!

[sharpsicle]

I've heard your arguments on this before, and while you have many great contributions to this forum, you are just plain wrong about this. Its a poor design to have an "auxiliary" non critical system disable the entire vehicle. Rationalize away all you want and wax poetic about how no one understands what goes into these systems. It is an singularly awful design and we all know it.

This tells me you don't understand what's going on.

The truck won't "disable" itself if you have a bad aux battery. It'll warn you, though. Like any issue, leave it unresolved long enough and the problem will spread.

These threads always end with the acknowledgement that the true issue isn't the aux battery system or ESS, but the garbage batteries that are used and the parasitic draw in modern vehicles.

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[Splenda]

The fix? Plug it in like an EV if you don't drive it much. I'm not a fan of ESS either, mainly cause it is not needed where I live. In the small chance that I get into stop and go traffic or if I see a traffic light, I could turn it on. Probably not going to do that.

My 2020 still has the original batteries. As it sits for another week under the Magnolia trees, it will get a few days on the trickle charger when I see it again.

Either you are not driving the truck long enough to keep it charged or you have another issue. 2 Aux batteries already? Something is not right.

Yep! I put mine on a battery charger about once a month. I only drive mine about 600 miles a month, so it's not driven enough to keep the batteries charged. It's just the cost of owning a high-maintenance vehicle.

 

[Splenda]

Unless you are married to having a ESS function, just do the full delete mod and you can stop worrying about it.

I would do this, but my OCD doesn't allow me to make features on a vehicle not work, no matter how stupid those features are. It's almost enough to make me pay for that Connected Jeep crap. Almost.

 

[MPMB]

Yep! I put mine on a battery charger about once a month. I only drive mine about 600 miles a month, so it's not driven enough to keep the batteries charged. It's just the cost of owning a high-maintenance vehicle.

In the year I dealt with the bad cam, I drove my JT less than 2000 miles. I never started it to idle, and I never put it on a charger. It always started up without any hesitation.

 

[Splenda]

In the year I dealt with the bad cam, I drove my JT less than 2000 miles. I never started it to idle, and I never put it on a charger. It always started up without any hesitation.

Mine is retarded. All kidding aside, mine has never "not started right up". It's more an issue of weird things popping up on the dashboard and strange glitches. It started when I got it home from the dealer. Jeep was built in May 2024. I bought in September 2024. I guess sitting on the lot caused the battery to drain. I was having weird warnings pop up on my dash. Someone on here suggested charging the battery. I did and the issues went away. I have just continued to charge it every month or two since then. My commute is 5 miles to work and back, and I don't get above 55 MPH. There's always one person who wants to argue, so there's my full explanation. It's definitely more preventative than anything else, but then I am a preventative kind of guy. I'm at 8000 miles and getting ready to do my fourth oil change and third tire rotation. Plus, I'm practically retired, my kids have moved out, and I have nothing better to do.

 

[davesparky6]

Sometimes

Technical

Efforts

Lack

Logical

Application,

Neglecting

Tested

Industry

Standards

 

[hayduke-TX]

I’ve been wondering about the batteries in mine after all the information spread on this site. To the point of not wanting to wait. I plan on saving up for a new main battery, use the above diagram to remove the aux battery. Now I’m torn between a good AGM battery at 70-80 lbs, or lithium with the same power numbers at 30 lbs? Of course the Dakota Lithium battery that’s comparable is twice the price, but comes with an 11year warranty!

It bugs me, too. On a 2024, you're probably under warranty and have roadside assistance from Jeep. I'm going to wait a while.

 

[SanTan38]

Well….. That’s why we all get on sites like this. Do a little rant. Maybe learn a little something. I honestly knew my aux battery was going bad. Wife told me the general red warning dot was coming on and the remote start wasn’t working. I just didn’t think it would DIE as quickly as it did. At least from the previous symptoms. lol. I bought another aux battery planning on changing it this weekend. Just died two days earlier than I’d hope. lol. And the ridiculousness of accessing it was a bit much.
My complaint isn’t that I “don’t understand”. I just wanted to complain about the whole ordeal, is all.

As far as “The truck won't "disable" itself if you have a bad aux battery” or a battery with low voltage. It will cause problems throughout the integrated circuitry of modern cars that can, and in many cases, prevent the vehicle from starting by not allowing the multiple logic circuits to fully energize and the multiple sensors and relays to not connect to each other, as they are designed to, in order to start the vehicle.
And then you simply get the WHAT THE HECK! Glitches. Just so happens that the way the ESS system is integrated with the rest of the vehicle , the ESS system multiples the things that go wrong in modern cars, when the battery voltage is insufficient.

But still love my Jeep.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yep! I put mine on a battery charger about once a month. I only drive mine about 600 miles a month, so it's not driven enough to keep the batteries charged. It's just the cost of owning a high-maintenance vehicle.

Yes, this............

 

[Caspien]

This tells me you don't understand what's going on.

The truck won't "disable" itself if you have a bad aux battery. It'll warn you, though. Like any issue, leave it unresolved long enough and the problem will spread.

These threads always end with the acknowledgement that the true issue isn't the aux battery system or ESS, but the garbage batteries that are used and the parasitic draw in modern vehicles.

I would also argue, the poor location of where the aux battery is installed.

I'm at just under 5 years with my originals, but I also near to daily drive.. and, they're JUST starting to do the whole 'Aux Switches unavailable' message. Not enough to do a full replacement, yet, but if it wasn't for that awful location, I'd not even be considering removing or replacing the system with a dual battery system.

Right now, the question I'm asking, is it worth the price to toss in a Genesis system, knowing the hell it'll be sourcing group 25 AGM's locally. (literally, none of our local AutoZones, Advanced Auto, O'Reily, or Napa carries them, and MOST won't even allow for a special order of them)

I plan on keeping this thing until it drops, and while I'm in good enough health to pull everything apart to replace the AUX, I don't know what the next 5-10 years will bring.. so, like many others before (and after) me, I'm sitting here trying to decide what option to go with..

and in my case... it's all due to the awful location of where the factory AUX is installed, not WHAT the ESS does or doesn't do.. JUST the awful location.

(and yes.. I know, someone is going to point out Genesis makes a relocation kit.. but if I'm going to spend THAT cost on a bracket, I may as well do full dual battery... that and I HATE the idea of the fuse panel being blocked... but.. lesser of evils, is what I need to decide on, I suppose

 

[Hunter#1]

Yep! I put mine on a battery charger about once a month. I only drive mine about 600 miles a month, so it's not driven enough to keep the batteries charged. It's just the cost of owning a high-maintenance vehicle.

I do this now also. I drive an average of 700 miles a month. I picked up a good agm charger and maintainer. I charge it once or twice a month. I leased mine 17 months ago, and have 22 months left on the lease. I'm trying to make the batteries last till then, hopefully I can give Chrysler back there cheap batteries. Even showibg a fuuk charge my stop/start shows it's not ready, b ut every once in awhile it will work. Lol.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As far as “The truck won't "disable" itself if you have a bad aux battery” or a battery with low voltage. It will cause problems throughout the integrated circuitry of modern cars that can, and in many cases, prevent the vehicle from starting by not allowing the multiple logic circuits to fully energize and the multiple sensors and relays to not connect to each other, as they are designed to, in order to start the vehicle.

Uh, isn't that pretty much the case with any vehicle? Low battery, it's not going to start?
And with these, if you are driving along and they sense an issue with voltage, they will warn you to safely pull over, and it will start to go into self-preservation mode.
Any vehicle will not start once the battery goes south (what do we have against southerners??)
low voltage, it won't crank and/or doesn't have enough power to feed the ignition system, it's done. Not enough power to fire injectors, it's done - single battery or whatever.
If you have a bad any battery - auxiliary, main/crank, or only - it's a dead vehicle.

If you know what you are doing as far as using jumper cables or whatever, you can still start it. Rare is the beast that can't be jump started. But people slap on the cables, hit that button and gee, DAMN THIS SYSTEM, when they really aren't even jumping correctly (which means connect and give it TIME, then try to start it)
If the only battery is dead due to a short, it won't start and can't be jumped easily.
If the main battery is dead due to a short, it won't start and can't be jumped easily.
If the auxiliary battery is dead due to a short, it won't start and can't be jumped easily.

But not all batteries die with a short - some die open (or some other reason) and in those cases, it has pretty much no impact on the other battery, or jump starting it.

I've worked on multiple battery systems, single battery systems and the over-all count is in the many hundreds, maybe more, and there is no "it's always going to do this" bit.
If I had a buck for every vehicle I've ever had to jump start for someone either as part of my job, or just because, my wife and I could have a whale of a celebration with the best steak and wine this weekend.

Wife told me the general red warning dot was coming on and the remote start wasn’t working. I just didn’t think it would DIE as quickly as it did.

Interesting the bit about the lights and warning being ignored - uh, take care of it NOW, not in a few hours or a day..............never assume. It can last minutes, hours..........
Last battery I personally had go bad was fine - started the car, drove it around to the other end of the garage to use to tension my winch line after use. It started ok. Voltage (I run full gauges in my cars) looked ok. Shut it off - dang, it wouldn't start again. Charged it, it started the car. Shut it off - and that was that, it was gone.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I would also argue, the poor location of where the aux battery is installed.

I'm at just under 5 years with my originals, but I also near to daily drive.. and, they're JUST starting to do the whole 'Aux Switches unavailable' message. Not enough to do a full replacement, yet, but if it wasn't for that awful location, I'd not even be considering removing or replacing the system with a dual battery system.

Right now, the question I'm asking, is it worth the price to toss in a Genesis system, knowing the hell it'll be sourcing group 25 AGM's locally. (literally, none of our local AutoZones, Advanced Auto, O'Reily, or Napa carries them, and MOST won't even allow for a special order of them)

I plan on keeping this thing until it drops, and while I'm in good enough health to pull everything apart to replace the AUX, I don't know what the next 5-10 years will bring.. so, like many others before (and after) me, I'm sitting here trying to decide what option to go with..

and in my case... it's all due to the awful location of where the factory AUX is installed, not WHAT the ESS does or doesn't do.. JUST the awful location.

(and yes.. I know, someone is going to point out Genesis makes a relocation kit.. but if I'm going to spend THAT cost on a bracket, I may as well do full dual battery... that and I HATE the idea of the fuse panel being blocked... but.. lesser of evils, is what I need to decide on, I suppose

No way I can justify the outrageous cost of their brackets and so on - crazy, and the loss of engine bay space. Sorry, That's almost worse to deal with than working to replace a battery when needed (and I go through the wheel well, crank wheels hard left, 2 clips and a screw, pull back fender liner, access battery)
I priced just their brackets- holy cow, I thought Jeep dealer accessory prices were crazy.

 

[SanTan38]

I miss the days when a battery going bad ment that it was just going to crank over a bit slower.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I miss the days when a battery going bad ment that it was just going to crank over a bit slower.

You were lucky if that's all they did to you.

You've never had one simply DIE and not crank at all?

We had so many calls for towing and jump starts because a battery simply quit. Lucky was the one that it actually cranked, just more slowly. And often it also meant - it wouldn't start because there wasn't enough power for the ignition

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