Start stop not working

[Lost1wing]

Ok. I’ll try that

I was just in Athens. Didn't realize you were not that far from me. I should have looked. I won't be up that way until next weekend.

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[Lost1wing]

You can do that same test with the engine running and would confirm the the pcr and n3 fuse are good if you see that 14.5v on both n1 and n2. If you see 14.5v on n2 and battery voltage on n1, your alternator wouldn't be charging the Aux. I would highly suspect the 150amp fuse or the pcr.

 

[NC_Overland]

Mine only starts working after a long road trip. It’s been like that for a few years. I don’t like the system so I’ve never tried to fix it. I’d imagine the second battery isn’t holding a charge very well.

 

[Wynfuller]

You can do that same test with the engine running and would confirm the the pcr and n3 fuse are good if you see that 14.5v on both n1 and n2. If you see 14.5v on n2 and battery voltage on n1, your alternator wouldn't be charging the Aux. I would highly suspect the 150amp fuse or the pcr.

You can do that same test with the engine running and would confirm the the pcr and n3 fuse are good if you see that 14.5v on both n1 and n2. If you see 14.5v on n2 and battery voltage on n1, your alternator wouldn't be charging the Aux. I would highly suspect the 150amp fuse or the pcr.

N1 12.5

N2 11.8

N3 13.6

 

[Lost1wing]

N1 12.5

N2 11.8

N3 13.6

N3 and N2 should be the same voltage from the alternator. That same voltage should be at N1 assuming the pcr and 150 amp fuse is good. Did you also check those points with the engine off?

 

[Wynfuller]

No. I’m thinking I’m just going to replace that high amp fuse bank. It’s only $100. Your thoughts?

 

[Lost1wing]

No. I’m thinking I’m just going to replace that high amp fuse bank. It’s only $100. Your thoughts?

That is what it is looking like. Or the pcr is shot.

 

[Wynfuller]

Maybe replace everything.

 

[Mr._Bill]

No. I’m thinking I’m just going to replace that high amp fuse bank. It’s only $100. Your thoughts?

Probably the logical next step. Fully disconnect both batteries. Be careful that the battery cables do not touch anything metal in the engine bay during the process. Accidental shorts tend to blow the high current fuses.

 

[Lost1wing]

Do you have this diagram? It is for the JL but it will work for this.

 

[Wynfuller]

Thanks

 

[Great Offender]

Check the IBS or as the diagram calls it "the sensor intelligent battery". That was replaced on mine. Worked for a day or two and then stopped again.. Never wanted it to work but the tech told me the IBS malfunctioning will lead to the death of your batteries? Can't confirm or deny.

 

[Lost1wing]

Check the IBS or as the diagram calls it "the sensor intelligent battery". That was replaced on mine. Worked for a day or two and then stopped again.. Never wanted it to work but the tech told me the IBS malfunctioning will lead to the death of your batteries? Can't confirm or deny.

I would say yes to checking the IBS! Not so much for it being faulty, but because he has 3 different voltage readings. He either has a loose connection somewhere or his meter ground was not secure giving him the different readings. If he removes both batteries and charges them before reinstalling, the IBS should reset itself just by the batteries being disconnected for a while. He would also have the time to test the fuse array and PCR while the batteries are out.

 

[Banned]

So I live in Cleveland Oh & I got a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon an I just got it undercoated with fluid film & my start stop does not work now has this happened to anybody else? Should I take it to the dealer?

Where can I get this fluid film? I've been wanting my ESS to stop working.

 

[MikeInMo]

You can do that same test with the engine running and would confirm the the pcr and n3 fuse are good if you see that 14.5v on both n1 and n2. If you see 14.5v on n2 and battery voltage on n1, your alternator wouldn't be charging the Aux. I would highly suspect the 150amp fuse or the pcr.

I am experiencing the same thing as @Wynfuller as of today. Both batteries tested good shut off (I pulled the aux so it wasn't going to be exactly the same as main). No issues with starting. Running voltage is 14.5+. 2.5yr old OEM batteries. No CEL, no battery warning. Just a message on the dash that the start stop is unavailable with the circle arrow A and !.

Where are N1, N2, and N3 physically located? I am just starting to digest the schematic posted above and have not messed with the electrical system in this vehicle at all. The whole aux battery concept is new to me.

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