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Suspension issues/begging for help

Andy29847

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I've been doing this almost to a T all my life. The only thing I did different was
1. not skip a lug nut
2. tighten them finger tight first, rotating the wheel several times
3. lastly use the lug nut wrench to tighten them again before lowering to the ground and finally torquing them.

I think my grandad taught me that around 1980. I despise tire shops torquing them and won't let a shop rotate my tires ever.

The big thing is to give the wheel a chance to center on all of the lug nuts. Tire shops mostly hit the first lug nut with their impact wrench, locking the wheel into position referenced to just that one lug nut.

I was having a similar problem as the original poster on my 2004 TJ until I learned to use4 this procedure to install the wheels. The big clue for me was that my tires were wearing out-of-round. I would recommend that Jeepers get hub centric adapter for your aftermarket wheels (if they are not hub centric).

Jeep Gladiator Suspension issues/begging for help 1747139202739-fs
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Zachanadandy

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I've been doing this almost to a T all my life. The only thing I did different was
1. not skip a lug nut
2. tighten them finger tight first, rotating the wheel several times
3. lastly use the lug nut wrench to tighten them again before lowering to the ground and finally torquing them.

I think my grandad taught me that around 1980. I despise tire shops torquing them and won't let a shop rotate my tires ever.
If your wheels are hubcentric it doesn't matter if you tighten 1 to spec before you put any of the other on or flip it around 50 times and give it a massage. Stock wheels are hub centric. If you run lug centric wheels then your method is worthwhile.
 

professorkx

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I’ve posted this on other threads, that if you own a Jeep, you will get death wobble, just the nature of the beast. At the first sign of a problem, I replace all four ball joints, both wheel hubs, tie rod and drag link (or just the ends of I am running an aftermarket units with replaceable ends) and the track bar. Problem solved. Also, I agree with the post on keeping the tires balance….just normal maintenance, so that’s never a problem for me.

I’ve tried chasing the cause or death wobble and gave up years ago, as it’s just too cheap to just replace everything and get back to having fun in my Jeep.

I’ve never bent a rim or rotor, so IMHO, that’s an extreme edge case. The aluminum knuckles is another edge case IMHO, just too many folks beating on their aluminum knuckles to be a systemic issue. I suspect I will replace mine at some point since it’s not a big expense, but I wouldn’t start with replacing knuckles as a source of death wobble.
 
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update for those who have commented:

i have swapped wheels. i went back to factory wheels with the same tires and had the same issues. no change. i had to go back to my aftermarket wheels bc the MC HD steering kit did not give clearance with the wheel weights on stock wheels. Again, more balance issues from my ko2s.

I did spin the tire on the rim to get the best balance. i spent HOURS balancing my tires and still could not get two to road force out on my last attempt. tires are almost five years old and uneven wear due to owner chasing issues. Im aware ive changed things, but damn.

i spent hours on the alignment rack getting my specs to a starting point.

Im at the point of paying others bc i either did it wrong, dont have the experience, or im just stupid. lol

here are my alignment sheets for those interested.


I have three other vehicles i can drive, its not an issue to leave it sitting for however long. I just want it fixed.

I appreciate everyones input, thank you so very much!
 

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JT1

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update for those who have commented:

i have swapped wheels. i went back to factory wheels with the same tires and had the same issues. no change. i had to go back to my aftermarket wheels bc the MC HD steering kit did not give clearance with the wheel weights on stock wheels. Again, more balance issues from my ko2s.

I did spin the tire on the rim to get the best balance. i spent HOURS balancing my tires and still could not get two to road force out on my last attempt. tires are almost five years old and uneven wear due to owner chasing issues. Im aware ive changed things, but damn.

i spent hours on the alignment rack getting my specs to a starting point.

Im at the point of paying others bc i either did it wrong, dont have the experience, or im just stupid. lol

here are my alignment sheets for those interested.


I have three other vehicles i can drive, its not an issue to leave it sitting for however long. I just want it fixed.

I appreciate everyones input, thank you so very much!
Do you have adjustable rear control arms too?
That thrust angle needs addressed once you find what is loose up front.

If you can't get the tires dynamically balanced, they will cause DW. I've seen a couple with 80+ pounds of road force. That force will cause issues on a solid axle rig.

If the budget exists, put tires on this thing.
 

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In3briatedPanda

In3briatedPanda

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Do you have adjustable rear control arms too?
That thrust angle needs addressed once you find what is loose up front.

If you can't get the tires dynamically balanced, they will cause DW. I've seen a couple with 80+ pounds of road force. That force will cause issues on a solid axle rig.

If the budget exists, put tires on this thing.

it is getting tires today. the tires were worn and 5 years old. i could have gone a few more 1k mile, but with my issue i opted to put new tires on it.

he just put two more degrees of caster in it and our test drive did not yield positive DW results. tires are next and recheck alignment.

everything was torqued to specs

edit; i was told the ball joints had no play. i insisted they check repeatedly. hopefully it was done correctly.
 

FloridaAussie

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If your wheels are hubcentric it doesn't matter if you tighten 1 to spec before you put any of the other on or flip it around 50 times and give it a massage. Stock wheels are hub centric. If you run lug centric wheels then your method is worthwhile.
I just do it across all vehicles I've ever owned, Jeeps and all. It's always made sense to me, and when I have a habit that I think is a good one, I like to keep it simple and do the same thing. Wasted time? Maybe 1 or 2 minutes. Piece of mind? Eternal.
 

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I think it was @Josh00333 that brought up his issue with his track bar bolt. The reason that I mentioned him is because he is on the right track. I've done a couple videos on my youtube about specific bolts and nuts being the proper torque. I had an issue myself with my pitman arm about 5yrs ago that was an issue.

Besides checking for proper torque, some nuts and bolts (pitman arm, track bar, etc.) should be removed an visually inspected. The bolt may be damaged which would create movement or the hole may be wallowed which would create movement as well. Visually inspecting all of the bolts, nuts, ball joints, etc. first for damage may save you some headache and money.
 
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In3briatedPanda

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i did not go back with bfg. i have not been happy with their wet weather performance. they are still stupid quiet but idk if i have issues with tires or everything making it a group effort to cause dw. they have the cracks and splits that alot of members have mentioned. i did go cheap though.
 

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Grandaddy ran a whiskey in a big block Dodge
Bought it at an auction at the Mason's Lodge
"Johnson County Sheriff" painted on the side
He shot a coat a primer then he looked inside
Him an my Uncle tore that engine down
I still remember that rumblin' sound

COPPERHEAD ROAD!
 
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In3briatedPanda

In3briatedPanda

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Trackbar bolt was loose at the axle side.
. I’m not sure how, but we loosened every single bolt, retorqued, and remarked.


in the end of this the jeep
got new tires.

2* more caster.
Trackbar bolt at the axle was loose/ Retorqued to specs.

balljoints were diagnosed as good

thank you to every single one of you who provided input. At the end of the day, it’s the same ole story and you all were right.

Thank you, from an exhausted and broke Jeep owner.
 

Zachanadandy

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Trackbar bolt was loose at the axle side.
. I’m not sure how, but we loosened every single bolt, retorqued, and remarked.


in the end of this the jeep
got new tires.

2* more caster.
Trackbar bolt at the axle was loose/ Retorqued to specs.

balljoints were diagnosed as good

thank you to every single one of you who provided input. At the end of the day, it’s the same ole story and you all were right.

Thank you, from an exhausted and broke Jeep owner.
I replaced the trackbar bolts with 3" long grade 8 9/16" bolts. They fit the trackbar bushings tighter than the stock metric hardware. I also used nylock nuts to help reduce the chance of loosening.
 

VA6489

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Alignment. adjust caster to 6-7 degrees.
Alignment, adjust toe to 1/16-1/8 toe in.

Check all jam nuts for tight
Check ball joints for play
Check all rod ends for play.
Track bars, tubular track bars flex look at a forged type front and rear.
Tire wear is also a issue. if you have uneven wear on the front tires you will induce a DW.
Tie rod and tie rod ends. Check for play and flex. again tubular tend to flex under load.
Look for a bent front axle.... this will also lead to uneven wear and DW.
 

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i did not go back with bfg. i have not been happy with their wet weather performance. they are still stupid quiet but idk if i have issues with tires or everything making it a group effort to cause dw. they have the cracks and splits that alot of members have mentioned. i did go cheap though.
I've had BFG KO2 in the past and I hated them. I tried them twice, both times the same results, crap in the wet, scary bad in snow. I don't understand how they get such great reviews, maybe they are a good tire for dry climates, but theres so many better options out there that I'll never consider them or that line of tire again.
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