swaybar front disconnects...........

[ShadowsPapa]

Well, if you're looking to save the money it may not matter that much. I have no idea what hardware may have been changed.

Probably a bolt size - if that's the case then would the Apex even fit a 24 or 25? If they made the bolts bigger, it won't. If they made them smaller, then it would have slop at the lower end.
And how can the same thing fit a JK AND JT?

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[ChrisNLA]

One question on the Apex that bugs me - with no lift, the links are short. The Apex links are straight. the stock, and all replacements, are offset. That means the apex would run at quite an angle with no lift.

Mine are pretty straight. No binding or other issues. Apex recommends stacking a washer or two under the top stud if there is an issue.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Yeah, but not spending 500 for something used maybe once or twice a year, tops, if that, - $300-$350 difference could buy something more necessary and used more often.

Judging by dozens of others with the other style - they work just fine and aren't that hard to take off and put back on.

Biggest issue is that mine is stock height - everything out there where you don't have to cut or trim is for 2.5-4.5" lifts with long links

TBH this is one of the reasons why I went with Apex if im being serious for a moment. I had a hell of a time finding anything to fit a stock or close to stock height truck that didnt involve cutting brackets off of the axle.

I disconnect for fun since the Apex makes it so easy. Wanna go flex on sometning I found? Twist dem knobs

 

[ShadowsPapa]

TBH this is one of the reasons why I went with Apex if im being serious for a moment. I had a hell of a time finding anything to fit a stock or close to stock height truck that didnt involve cutting brackets off of the axle.

I disconnect for fun since the Apex makes it so easy. Wanna go flex on sometning I found? Twist dem knobs

Teraflex doesn't require any cutting or mods, and says it would work for 0 lift
Metalcloak doesn't require any cutting, but isn't for non-lifted vehicles.
RockKrawler needs no cutting or mods, but starts at 2.5" lift

 

[ChrisNLA]

Teraflex doesn't require any cutting or mods, and says it would work for 0 lift
Metalcloak doesn't require any cutting, but isn't for non-lifted vehicles.
RockKrawler needs no cutting or mods, but starts at 2.5" lift

Tera is probably the best bet then. Id be curious to see the length on the RK's. Feel like they may be too long.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Tera is probably the best bet then. Id be curious to see the length on the RK's. Feel like they may be too long.

Looks like the brackets add at least another inch

 

[ChrisNLA]

Looks like the brackets add at least another inch

They would be pushing it on length - but maybe doable.

 

[Stan H]

I spent the first 4 years of my life in Maryland and am a big fan of scrapple.

I'm so sorry to hear that.

 

[djthumper]

Probably a bolt size - if that's the case then would the Apex even fit a 24 or 25? If they made the bolts bigger, it won't. If they made them smaller, then it would have slop at the lower end.
And how can the same thing fit a JK AND JT?

Apex says they are good up to the 25 models. $192 vs $475. I like the fact that the Apex ones you flip it to lock and it locks back up without a fight.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Apex says they are good up to the 25 models. $192 vs $475. I like the fact that the Apex ones you flip it to lock and it locks back up without a fight.

How about $45 vs. 475?
Yeah, looking at doing Rubicon sway bar now - two ways of doing it. Either a manual knob turn type function to replace the electrical (for about $45), or, a DPDT switch to replace the electronics in the disconnect module and run the thing electrically (for maybe $10 worth of parts and wires)

Or - Metalcloak for $124 and cut and thread them and plate them again.
The link would fit in my lathe to cut it off, turn it down to thread, thread, then plate the link again.

 

[Boomeribe]

I had APEX on my Mojave, just took them off - one of the lock nuts would not stay tight, no matter what I did it kept getting loose. Just got the SwayLOC front and rear systems on. Will get a good testing session in about 2 weeks. The on-road is way better, really tightened it up, no more wiggle in the rear either. https://offroadonly.com/product-category/swayloc/jeep-swayloc/

 

[Metalcloak]

Waiting for Metalcloak to chime in - it's their product!

Mojave is the same height stock as Rubicon... which is what we all base our engineering on. So stock Mojave is same as stock Rubicon for sway bar purposes.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Mojave is the same height stock as Rubicon... which is what we all base our engineering on. So stock Mojave is same as stock Rubicon for sway bar purposes.

The only disconnects I found from your company say this - (and I don't run a lift at all - so the links are short)

Love the looks and - no cutting of the stock axle link mounts, but with no lift, they'd be way too long.

 

[ChrisNLA]

How about $45 vs. 475?
Yeah, looking at doing Rubicon sway bar now - two ways of doing it. Either a manual knob turn type function to replace the electrical (for about $45), or, a DPDT switch to replace the electronics in the disconnect module and run the thing electrically (for maybe $10 worth of parts and wires)

Or - Metalcloak for $124 and cut and thread them and plate them again.
The link would fit in my lathe to cut it off, turn it down to thread, thread, then plate the link again.

Rubi disconnect with the Evo manual release would have been the route I'd go if I had found one for less than a small fortune.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Rubi disconnect with the Evo manual release would have been the route I'd go if I had found one for less than a small fortune.

Go to Amazon and type in "jeep rubicon manual sway bar disconnect" LOL - wow.
(one guy in a different Wrangler forum even made his own with a steel plate, a nut and an eye bolt with a spring on the end)

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