swaybar front disconnects...........

[Splenda]

I have a Rubicon "electric sway bar" coming.
Just need to decide and figure how to operate it. I've seen a couple of ways -
looking for any other ideas. Aux switch? No problem. I have an unused aux switch.

Where did you end up buying the Rubicon sway bar?

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[Vtur]

I have a Rubicon "electric sway bar" coming.
Just need to decide and figure how to operate it. I've seen a couple of ways -
looking for any other ideas. Aux switch? No problem. I have an unused aux switch.

There're 3 ways to do it. I can help sketch up a schematics for option 2 & 3. I have no experience with option 1 but have seen someone did it.

1. Taps and wired like how factory does it, but requires oem switch panel and set it with Alfaobd.

2. Using a single switch and a DPDT relay with optional indicator light or sound alert feature. Requires adding a micro switch inside the unit, and some tinkering with the existing disengaged hall sensor rod. This is how i did mine.

3. Using 2 switches and a DPDT relay. Easiest option but require 2 switches and no disengaged indicator. 1 switch for the motor and 1 for the magnetic brake.

The bar is always engaged in a default (no power applied) position via a spring. There are 3 main components inside the housing. It has a small DC motor with a magnetic brake disc mounted on the spindle end of the motor, and a spring loaded rod with a magnetic tip that triggered the PCB hall sensor once disengaged to energize the magnetic brake to hold the gear disconnect. It's designed this way to avoid burning up the motor by constantly energizing it to keeps it disconnect.

How it works in stock form.
1. Activate the bar.
2. DC motor spin and push a piston to disengage the gears.
3. The hall sensor rod move along with the gear. Once fully disengaged, the magnetic at the tip of the rod moved far enough to trigger the sensor to energize magnetic brake and disconnect power to the motor.
4. Magnetic brake holding the gears disconnect until switch off.
5. Once power switched off, the clockspring will release the piston that was holding the gear open, then the spring loaded gear re-engage.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There're 3 ways to do it. I can help sketch up a schematics for option 2 & 3. I have no experience with option 1 but have seen someone did it.

1. Taps and wired like how factory does it, but requires oem switch panel and set it with Alfaobd.

2. Using a single switch and a DPDT relay with optional indicator light or sound alert feature. Requires adding a micro switch inside the unit, and some tinkering with the existing disengaged hall sensor rod. This is how i did mine.

3. Using 2 switches and a DPDT relay. Easiest option but require 2 switches and no disengaged indicator. 1 switch for the motor and 1 for the magnetic brake.

The bar is always engaged in a default (no power applied) position via a spring. There are 3 main components inside the housing. It has a small DC motor with a magnetic brake disc mounted on the spindle end of the motor, and a spring loaded rod with a magnetic tip that triggered the PCB hall sensor once disengaged to energize the magnetic brake to hold the gear disconnect. It's designed this way to avoid burning up the motor by constantly energizing it to keeps it disconnect.

How it works in stock form.
1. Activate the bar.
2. DC motor spin and push a piston to disengage the gears.
3. The hall sensor rod move along with the gear. Once fully disengaged, the magnetic at the tip of the rod moved far enough to trigger the sensor to energize magnetic brake and disconnect power to the motor.
4. Magnetic brake holding the gears disconnect until switch off.
5. Once power switched off, the clockspring will release the piston that was holding the gear open, then the spring loaded gear re-engage.

Would love to see schematics.

 

[Vtur]

Would love to see schematics.

This is how i wired mine. I went with a piezo speaker as disengaged alert because i didn't wanted to run any additional wires into the cab. It beep then goes off once disconnected. I used one of my factory 15a aux switch for activation.

 

[WILDHOBO]

There're 3 ways to do it. I can help sketch up a schematics for option 2 & 3. I have no experience with option 1 but have seen someone did it.

1. Taps and wired like how factory does it, but requires oem switch panel and set it with Alfaobd.

2. Using a single switch and a DPDT relay with optional indicator light or sound alert feature. Requires adding a micro switch inside the unit, and some tinkering with the existing disengaged hall sensor rod. This is how i did mine.

3. Using 2 switches and a DPDT relay. Easiest option but require 2 switches and no disengaged indicator. 1 switch for the motor and 1 for the magnetic brake.

The bar is always engaged in a default (no power applied) position via a spring. There are 3 main components inside the housing. It has a small DC motor with a magnetic brake disc mounted on the spindle end of the motor, and a spring loaded rod with a magnetic tip that triggered the PCB hall sensor once disengaged to energize the magnetic brake to hold the gear disconnect. It's designed this way to avoid burning up the motor by constantly energizing it to keeps it disconnect.

How it works in stock form.
1. Activate the bar.
2. DC motor spin and push a piston to disengage the gears.
3. The hall sensor rod move along with the gear. Once fully disengaged, the magnetic at the tip of the rod moved far enough to trigger the sensor to energize magnetic brake and disconnect power to the motor.
4. Magnetic brake holding the gears disconnect until switch off.
5. Once power switched off, the clockspring will release the piston that was holding the gear open, then the spring loaded gear re-engage.

Outstanding. Seems totally doable.

 

[Jaxmax]

Youse guys are fun. Hey, I don't mind ideas and people speaking from experience.

On the other hand - pictures in a few days............

The most “Obscure location “ in the US would be Colorado, the whole state is a bunch of awesome nuts, and I count one of them as my special nut friend!

 

[WILDHOBO]

This is how i wired mine. I went with a piezo speaker as disengaged alert because i didn't wanted to run any additional wires into the cab. It beep then goes off once disconnected. I used one of my factory 15a aux switch for activation.

Just downloaded this. Great work.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The most “Obscure location “ in the US would be Colorado, the whole state is a bunch of awesome nuts, and I count one of them as my special nut friend!

Why won’t they stop looking at me? Stop it. Cut it out. Darn squirrels!

 

[CrazyCooter]

My vote with or without the Rubi bar is the Apex Airlynx. You can benefit every day with the comfort allotted from the small bump compliance depending on what air pressure you choose to run. They work with stock height suspension and no cutting!

I have used the Teraflex FlexConnect links in the past on the high end suspension builds, but it seems they are kind of going away......Perfect timing for the Airlynx to come available! When they come back into stock at the wholesale house, I plan to swap the Flex Connects to my YJ, and install the Airlynx on the JT!

 

[Jaxmax]

Just downloaded this. Great work.

Actually I prefer this setup to Factory as you control disconnecting and reconnecting sway bar not some low speed from factory, also if anything fails it reconnects. If the switch to engage was made a monetary on button along with a momentary stop button through a seal in contact in relay, you would then reconnect the sway bar every time you turn off truck, such as at the end of a long trail , then you are not pulling out into traffic disconnected!
Well I am glad this is just about resolved , now where did I set down my Latte, oh wait, I’m too old to know what that is!….Jack

 

[Vtur]

Actually I prefer this setup to Factory as you control disconnecting and reconnecting sway bar not some low speed from factory, also if anything fails it reconnects. If the switch to engage was made a monetary on button along with a momentary stop button through a seal in contact in relay, you would then reconnect the sway bar every time you turn off truck, such as at the end of a long trail , then you are not pulling out into traffic disconnected!
Well I am glad this is just about resolved , now where did I set down my Latte, oh wait, I’m too old to know what that is!….Jack

Factory aux switch can be configured as latch or constant. I have mine set as latching so it would reengage when shut off the engine and auto disengage again once started. It really helped when bombing down on washboard trails disconnected.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Actually I prefer this setup to Factory as you control disconnecting and reconnecting sway bar not some low speed from factory, also if anything fails it reconnects. If the switch to engage was made a monetary on button along with a momentary stop button through a seal in contact in relay, you would then reconnect the sway bar every time you turn off truck, such as at the end of a long trail , then you are not pulling out into traffic disconnected!
Well I am glad this is just about resolved , now where did I set down my Latte, oh wait, I’m too old to know what that is!….Jack

The diagram is resolved - getting a switch into the disconnect and set it up to operate at the right time, not so resolved.

My take - this switch needs to be installed, and adjusted just right, to get triggered at the correct time.

The schematic makes sense - the added switch in the disconnect would be NO and would close when the motor reached the disconnect position, enabling the brake and killing power to the motor.

So if you set the aux switch to ACC power, then turning off the truck would kill power to the brake and let the thing lock together again. You'd want the aux switch to be ACC and not remember last position - unless you wanted it to disconnect again when you restarted the truck.
But you'd want it latching and not momentary, and ACC rather than BAT in any case. Remembering last position could be optional, I suppose. If you wanted it to lock again when you shut the truck off and not unlock when you restart it, then have it not remember last position.

• ACC or BAT
• Latching or momentary
• Remember last position or don't remember and default to off on restart

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Now to figure out how to set up a switch in there that would close when the bar was disconnected...............

I bet this could be run on the low amperage aux switch. It's a really low power motor, and doesn't pull much. Likely the magnetic lock doesn't have a large draw, either.

 

[Vtur]

The diagram is resolved - getting a switch into the disconnect and set it up to operate at the right time, not so resolved.

My take - this switch needs to be installed, and adjusted just right, to get triggered at the correct time.

The schematic makes sense - the added switch in the disconnect would be NO and would close when the motor reached the disconnect position, enabling the brake and killing power to the motor.

So if you set the aux switch to ACC power, then turning off the truck would kill power to the brake and let the thing lock together again. You'd want the aux switch to be ACC and not remember last position - unless you wanted it to disconnect again when you restarted the truck.
But you'd want it latching, and ACC in any case. Remembering last position could be optional, I suppose.

That's correct. I have mine remember last setting so i don't have to keeps on turning it back on multiple times during off roading.

 

[Vtur]

Now to figure out how to set up a switch in there that would close when the bar was disconnected...............

I bet this could be run on the low amperage aux switch. It's a really low power motor, and doesn't pull much. Likely the magnetic lock doesn't have a large draw, either.

It's quite simple to add a micro switch in the right position. Feel free to contact me once you have it opened. It's mich easier to explain. Has been a few years since i worked on mine, but I'll try to sketch one up shortly.

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