Alabama Mud Machine

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The 4.88 is as big as I would go on the D44. If you move up to a D60, then I would suggest a 5.38 or numerically higher due to the larger ring and pinion.
I can't remember what I'm running in my Sterling 10.25" rear for my F250 build that I ran out of money and "GiveAFuck" to finish... 6.5" Skyjacker Double-Flex with Platinum Big Gas series shocks, 37x12.50r16 SSR's on 16x8 factory Alcoa bullet holes. Good looking truck.

I think I went with 5.13 Yukons, but that was 10 years ago. They're still in that rear axle, and I'll probably end up selling it the rear axle separate from the truck, and putting another matching factory 4.10 rear that I have sitting around in it. It's a damn $4,000 rear axle with the Blackbird customs disc brake conversion, and Yukon 5.13 gears, REAL Detroit locker, Dynatrac diff cover, etc... That sucker is BUILT! If you break that axle with anything larger than 46" Michelin XMLs (or 54" swampers), you're doing something wrong.



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Alabama Mud Machine

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I am having mine dealership installed and covered by warranty with mopar performance gear sets when I get mine the end of this month. Will be rolling on 38" patagonias and mamba m25's ordered them last night
What does the dealer charge for that, if you don't mind? If so, I'd love to have mine covered under warranty and dealer-installed... Especially since it's still a lease...
 

Brfertig

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What does the dealer charge for that, if you don't mind? If so, I'd love to have mine covered under warranty and dealer-installed... Especially since it's still a lease...
my dealer wants 2400 to install lockers and gears. I am doing it myself. Just waiting on the super dana 44 35 spline shafts, they are a custom order for now. Ordered from eastcoastgearsupply
 

endurojeep

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$1600 out the door but I am a sales consultant for the dealership so I get a fairly good deal. but with that being said they figured 8 hrs labor. Which is at normal labor cost so around $800 labor
 

Alabama Mud Machine

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$1600 out the door but I am a sales consultant for the dealership so I get a fairly good deal. but with that being said they figured 8 hrs labor. Which is at normal labor cost so around $800 labor
So, your dealership charges $1,600 out the door for a 4.88 gear swap F&R with Dana 4.88 gears? That's not bad!
 

endurojeep

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That is the deal I made and it is on the deal sheet for the lease.
 

Brfertig

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$1600 out the door but I am a sales consultant for the dealership so I get a fairly good deal. but with that being said they figured 8 hrs labor. Which is at normal labor cost so around $800 labor
So, your dealership charges $1,600 out the door for a 4.88 gear swap F&R with Dana 4.88 gears? That's not bad!
That is a really good deal. My 2400 quote as stated earlier was LABOR only! :surprised:
 

wvyankee2

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Ok.
So what about 35s?
I have the 488's with 35's on my Overland. Could have done 456's but I pull a 4000# Travel Trailer. And if I ever want to go to 37's, I'm good to go. FYI, I'm getting 16MPG the last 2 tank fulls. That's 70% Interstate driving in the 70-75 MPH range. Was getting 20 MPG stock with the 373's and 32's.
 

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I have the 488's with 35's on my Overland. Could have done 456's but I pull a 4000# Travel Trailer. And if I ever want to go to 37's, I'm good to go. FYI, I'm getting 16MPG the last 2 tank fulls. That's 70% Interstate driving in the 70-75 MPH range. Was getting 20 MPG stock with the 373's and 32's.

I'm getting around 18 mixed with 35s on stock max tow 4.10 gears. I understand everyone wants to feel good about the gear change but 4.10 to 4.88 is not a very big jump. If you have 3.73 then yes a bigger change. I would go 5.13 or 5.38 without hesitation if you have a larger than 35" tire.
 
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I'm getting around 18 mixed with 35s on stock max tow 4.10 gears. I understand everyone wants to feel good about the gear change but 4.10 to 4.88 is not a very big jump. If you have 3.73 then yes a bigger change. I would go 5.13 or 5.38 without hesitation if you have a larger than 35" tire.
Lots of options out there for sure, and my personal view is it depends on application. Doing the math, 4.56 is the right gear to pull final drive into stock spec with a 37 inch tire. 4.88 gets you a little more pep. If overlanding with heavy gear and 38’s then a 5.13 could definitely suit. My rig is daily plus day tripping on the weekend. Having a few more teeth on the pinion to spin 130 pounds of wheel and tire over obstacles also made sense to me. My rpms are right in the sweet spot for decent highway mpg without bogging too.

trailrecon did 5.13’s and also got reasonable mpg, but he has a lot more on his rig than i contemplate for mine. I think there’s a lot to it besides bench math...depends also on weight and overall goals. for my purposes 4.88 is night and day, definitely a lot of change without spinning the motor up too much down the road.

Based on my experience I’d hesitate saying 4.88 is not enough over 4.10 for my needs. Seems like it gives me a lot to work with without a lot of compromise elsewhere.
 

redrider

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Past experience working in shops does not make for restful sleep. I have seen the shortcuts and inept dropouts at work. The Flat Rate scam is just that. So my question is "How do you folks verify the work was done correctly even at the dealership?" When my YJ needed a new trash lock, I went to a local guy who has a huge following with the off road parts breakers. Differentials were his bread and butter. Prussian Blue flowed through his veins.
 

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488’s and 35” Falkens. RPM’s in 7th & 8th @ 71 MPH.
 

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i have 37's 5.13's just coming out of beak in now so at 70 mph in 8th gear im at around 2500 rpms
 

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So, the debate, at least for me, is settled

I watched all the videos. Scrubbed all the forums. Checked all the pricing too.

Like a lot of us, My JTR rides on 37 mud terrains on a mopar lift. For everyone who says the 4.10s are fine with this kind of set up, you are right. You can get down the road just fine, no surging, reasonable power. Its also true that doing so comes with a lot of gear hunting on the highway. But its seriously not an issue, you’ll just spDend a lot of time in 6th going down the road.

But, as decent as the 4.10s are with allowing you to get down the road, the 4.88’s are a game changer, and its not even close.

Elite Offroad here in Birmingham did a great job dropping in some Dana Spicer 4.88 gears and master install kit on my JTR this week. We used a Superchips Flashcal to dial it in. This thing will never be a hellcat in terms of pep but it moved itself with way more ease with the new rings. Very peppy, and more importantly, super smooth at part throttle. The jeep also uses all its gears and settles in to 8th without bogging. It shows off the strengths of this 8 speed well, up hill downshifts arehandled crisply and the engine never lags or bogs.

All of us have different driving styles. But for me, on the highway running 70 on flat ground i could achieve 20mpg running 2100 rpms. Pic below confirms what I saw.

We’ll put it on a trail after the break in period but I am expecting greater control off road and also less need for 4 lo on average trails here in the southeast. Hope these notes help any who are trying to make a decision. Zero regrets here, its really a no brainer and highly recommend.

D6500408-81E6-477F-B1BC-216A43660D87.jpeg
Couldn’t agree with you any more. I’m running 37 KO2s and the Mopar lift. Going to 4.88s got rid of a lot of searching for gears and improved the fuel economy. I also have a 2107 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk with the the same 8 speed and with the 4.88s the Gladiator shifts smoothly like the Trailhawk. On 4.10s it was disappointing.
 

                           
























































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