Three roads to house power?

[CrazyCooter]

Did you see the new video by 4xoverland? Crazy stuff...

I don't understand the problem? I use the same Orion DC-DC, but a 12/12-18 and I just set mine to shut down at a voltage that happens when the alternator quits charging and turn on at a high voltage that could only happen with the engine running/alternator charging? The delay is less than a minute?

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[ttn333]

Redarc manager kit is definitely nice but overkill for my purpose. I mean, what are people running in their truck bed. I've kept it fairly simple and add as needed. I have a renogy 100ah lifepo in a battery box, slapped on an mppt solar charger and hooked up a victron ac-dc to charge via alternator from the outlet in the bed. Bolted it down to my utility box in front of the bed and I'm pretty set. Recently added a powertech control box for extra switches and connections in the rear. Also carry a bluetti ac50s for portable use around camp. I can easily drop a second 100ah lifepo to double my current output if needed. Also mounted renogy bluetooth dongle to monitor battery status and input/output to the battery via my phone.

 

[chorky]

I don't understand the problem? I use the same Orion DC-DC, but a 12/12-18 and I just set mine to shut down at a voltage that happens when the alternator quits charging and turn on at a high voltage that could only happen with the engine running/alternator charging? The delay is less than a minute?

I agree. that guy is WAY overcomplicating it IMO. He seems to be trying to make the argument that your battery will instantaneously be drained 100% just from a few seconds of lag time between his engine off and the sensor for his current system. I get his point, but I didn't even watch past 1:17. People can make these as simple or complex as you want... Half the fun of course is complexities for some because it's our hobby.

That being said, the RedArc 25A DC/DC has a ignition sensor built in, so when ignition is on it will operate, when not it will stop pulling power from the main battery. it also has inputs I think for solar. https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/dual-input-25a-in-vehicle-dc-battery-charger This option is plenty good for 99% of people. I dont see how the $2,000 BMS system is really beneficial unless you're part of the X Overland crew doing a 2 month journey and trying to run an entire film team on the road. I mean, it's a really cool system!! But way over kill for weekend trips....and thats coming from a guy who overbuilds everything!!

Really all that is needed is a battery, the DC/DC I just posted the link of, some wiring, a BlueSea fuse block, and you're good to go. Now a person can make it more complicated if they wish, or just keep it super simple and get a jackery or goal zero. And as somebody posted in the Genesis thread I started, they worked just fine (without knowing the battery SOC) for a few days even just on an AGM battery.

And these days you don't even have to fuss over built in solar. There are plenty of options with solar 'packages' that have built in charge controllers - like this one. https://www.zampsolar.com/collectio.../obsidian-series-200-watt-combo-kit-regulated And it's a much lower cost than doing a fancy on board system that might really only be used a couple times a year.

This is why I really think it is critical to do the math to understand what your assumed power consumption will be and also to be most realistic about what you will actually do 90% of the time. Because the other 10% for those once in a lifetime trips, things will probably be ok.

 

[ToJTornottoJT]

I agree. that guy is WAY overcomplicating it IMO. He seems to be trying to make the argument that your battery will instantaneously be drained 100% just from a few seconds of lag time between his engine off and the sensor for his current system. I get his point, but I didn't even watch past 1:17. People can make these as simple or complex as you want... Half the fun of course is complexities for some because it's our hobby.

That being said, the RedArc 25A DC/DC has a ignition sensor built in, so when ignition is on it will operate, when not it will stop pulling power from the main battery. it also has inputs I think for solar. https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/dual-input-25a-in-vehicle-dc-battery-charger This option is plenty good for 99% of people. I dont see how the $2,000 BMS system is really beneficial unless you're part of the X Overland crew doing a 2 month journey and trying to run an entire film team on the road. I mean, it's a really cool system!! But way over kill for weekend trips....and thats coming from a guy who overbuilds everything!!

Really all that is needed is a battery, the DC/DC I just posted the link of, some wiring, a BlueSea fuse block, and you're good to go. Now a person can make it more complicated if they wish, or just keep it super simple and get a jackery or goal zero. And as somebody posted in the Genesis thread I started, they worked just fine (without knowing the battery SOC) for a few days even just on an AGM battery.

And these days you don't even have to fuss over built in solar. There are plenty of options with solar 'packages' that have built in charge controllers - like this one. https://www.zampsolar.com/collectio.../obsidian-series-200-watt-combo-kit-regulated And it's a much lower cost than doing a fancy on board system that might really only be used a couple times a year.

This is why I really think it is critical to do the math to understand what your assumed power consumption will be and also to be most realistic about what you will actually do 90% of the time. Because the other 10% for those once in a lifetime trips, things will probably be ok.

The 4xOverland guy definitely complicates stuff, but he is also operating a different level being out in the middle of nowhere for long periods at at time.

I like the Renogy stuff. It seems well thought out, is affordable, and tested to work.

 

[PsyRN]

I'm heavily leaning in the "New School" camp. I currently have a 500W Lithium Cube, but have found that after a couple of days, it's pretty low on juice. Driving around with it plugged into the 12v socket doesn't charge it fast enough. I have the 100W portable solar panel, but it's not like I'm sitting too long in the sun in 1 place for it to be very useful. And I don't have a fridge yet, I have more of a 50W electric cooler. But I want to add lights to my camper, rooftop fan, probably a laptop/ipad for movies, heated blanket, things like that. The cube can't handle it all.

I like the modular aspect of the "new school" approach. If something breaks/stops working, all I need to replace is that 1 piece. As opposed to the all-in-one set-ups like my cube, if something breaks, the whole thing stops working and the the whole thing needs replacing. And with all the bouncing around, I anticipate something breaking. Also the modularity allows for easier expansion. Need more power? add another battery/bigger battery. I don't need to replace the whole system.

 

[John in the Woods]

I'm heavily leaning in the "New School" camp. I currently have a 500W Lithium Cube, but have found that after a couple of days, it's pretty low on juice. Driving around with it plugged into the 12v socket doesn't charge it fast enough. I have the 100W portable solar panel, but it's not like I'm sitting too long in the sun in 1 place for it to be very useful. And I don't have a fridge yet, I have more of a 50W electric cooler. But I want to add lights to my camper, rooftop fan, probably a laptop/ipad for movies, heated blanket, things like that. The cube can't handle it all.

I like the modular aspect of the "new school" approach. If something breaks/stops working, all I need to replace is that 1 piece. As opposed to the all-in-one set-ups like my cube, if something breaks, the whole thing stops working and the the whole thing needs replacing. And with all the bouncing around, I anticipate something breaking. Also the modularity allows for easier expansion. Need more power? add another battery/bigger battery. I don't need to replace the whole system.

I'm leaning this way too. heavily. All I need to do is the energy audit these folks recommended to what size battery and I might need. Guess I'll have the calculator out this weekend!

 

[ttn333]

I'm leaning this way too. heavily. All I need to do is the energy audit these folks recommended to what size battery and I might need. Guess I'll have the calculator out this weekend!

I really think people are overthinking this. There's no real need to do a detailed "energy audit". The most cost effective lifepo4 will be the 100ah kind. Start with that. You can always add more if needed. But for most, that will more than suffice for common use like running fridge and diesel heater, charging electronics etc. Then you'll need a solar charger (make sure its of the mppt variety) and some sort of dc charger. I went with an ac-dc charger for simplicity so I didn't have to run a fat cable from the engine bay all the way to the back. Also I already have one so that was an easy call. I would also recommend having a portable 500wh unit like a jackery or bluetti for backup and around camp use. As for power consumption, I can run my 65L dual zone fridge indefinitely with a bluetti ac50s (500wh/50ah) as long as there's a few hours of sunlight by charging it with a 120w panel.

 

[badger719]

Would it be possible to wire the bed power outlet so it can either draw power from the truck alternator or my 100ah lithium bed mounted battery? From some research it looks like I can use a pair of 12v power sources as long as there is a diode on the positive legs?

I have a base Sport so I am looking to add a 12v cig lighter/3 rocker switches in the blank spot where the factory bed outlet would be.

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