Renogy LiFePO House (Dual) Battery Install

[ShadowsPapa]

This is just how I went about it. I’ve heard mixed things about their products. Some horror stories and others raving.

When looking at reviews - I consider other reviews the person may have left, how their review reads, and try to read - were they expecting set it down, connect a wire and walk away and life would be good - even though they totally screwed up the install?
some people can mess up throwing a rock into a lake.
The bad reviews must be similar in type of problem, and written in such a way that it's obvious they knew what they were doing otherwise I sort of consider the sources.
Sometimes rave reviews are over the top.
So I look for actual posts and threads detailing how things went rather than purely reviews.
My son and I recently compared notes and marveled at how one site may have 100 reviews and the item is 3 out of 5 stars, another has 150 reviews and the item is over 4 out of 5. Hmmm, maybe different types of people with different skill levels buy from certain places.

When making choices - I tend to go more by things like you wrote up - not reviews on certain sites. I look for detail, the knowledge of the person doing the install or work and more.
I can tell by how things are written if things are going to be the fault of the product or the user in some cases.

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[Wolf Island Diver]

Solid copy. I misunderstood. I love my panels (they are the different style Renogy 100W flexible) and I agree that the hood mount Cascadia and such just aren't the same bang for the buck; however, I suppose it could be great for someone who doesn't have the same "real estate" to mount the panels on.

I do the same with my Dometic fridge. I just leave it on. I'm retired so sometimes I just pick up and wander off into the woods; so it's nice having the fridge ready to go. I have yet to have my fridge pull the battery down in that manner, but I'm also in Arizona and getting sunlight onto the photovoltaic panels just isn't a problem.

I'm not too familiar with the RedVision system...what is it capable of that the DC Home app isn't doing. I suppose DC home just monitors and can't actually control anything...

EDIT: I do thing however that when my panels finally fade, I will go with the rigid style panels. I really don't need the flexibility aspect for my current mounting configuration.

RedVision is a full graphical management system for a camper and does water tanks, heaters, power, leveling, etc

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Thanks so much for the detailed response.

I have a ground blind that sets up on a similar principle although much smaller.

Generally speaking staked in I've been able to leave it up for an entire season and then some with no issues, in spite of high winds, nasty weather, etc. Might have had a lot to do with location protecting it somewhat.

Looking at the tents, maybe I'm wrong but what you're describing above sounds like a fundamental issue with the T4+, not the standard T4. I didn't see the T4+ listed on their site so maybe they've pulled production until they can sort the issues you mentioned?

I’ve updated my Gazelle thread with some hacks I did today. I think I solved the center collapse issue. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...psa-some-workarounds-hacks.63794/post-1175139

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

I’ve noticed one odd thing about the Renogy Home App or maybe the charger. Keep in mind I don’t yet have battery monitoring yet. The hub comes in tomorrow. So I don’t know the state of charge but I’m assuming it’s basically full. When you’re running Solar, I’ve noticed that I’m getting very low Amps and wattage. I thought maybe my new Renogy panel was defective. I’ve seen wattage as high as 30 but it’s usually super low. Of course I also see wattage when there’s no direct sun. The panel actually seems to works pretty well and poor light.

I attached my other panels to the system and got the same thing, low wattage. I know these panels put out good wattage.

I think I know what’s going on. I’m used to the Goal Zero which tells you what the panels are putting out. This seems to tell you what PV wattage is charging the house battery. I noticed the same thing when on alternator. The battery is basically full and I haven’t been running any loads so, there’s no real wattage being used.

I’m running the fridge now so we’ll see if the wattage jumps up. I’m going to test the Renogy panel on the GZ tomorrow as well. I’m still getting used to this beast

 

[Fcmalie]

Nice setup. Hope you like the Opus, I saw one in person for the first time last week and it was pretty cool. We have an OBI Dweller 13' that I'm wanting to upgrade the electrical on, first step might just be going from AGM to LiFePo4 batteries.

 

[HereWeGo]

@Wolf Island Diver - Does the Renogy DCDC 50 have the ability to "dial down" the charge current? Some brands have this ability, but I don't see that with Renogy. I want to get the KickAss 120AH Slim battery which has a 50A max charge but recommended charge of 25-40. I may add a second battery in the future, so would like the 50A charger, but that's too much for just one battery to start. I will also have a Renogy 200W flexible panel.
thanks!

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

@Wolf Island Diver - Does the Renogy DCDC 50 have the ability to "dial down" the charge current? Some brands have this ability, but I don't see that with Renogy. I want to get the KickAss 120AH Slim battery which has a 50A max charge but recommended charge of 25-40. I may add a second battery in the future, so would like the 50A charger, but that's too much for just one battery to start. I will also have a Renogy 200W flexible panel.
thanks!

Yesterday, I saw my Solar charging jump up pretty high during the day when it was previously very low, but I’ve been running my fridge so the battery actually needed charge. This seems to confirm that the DCC50S will throttle the PV wattage depending on the batteries need. That’s not exactly the same as what you’re asking but it does answer my own question from a few posts ago. I do believe however that you can change the AMPs in the settings. I’ll double check the app today when I’m out there and it connects. I’m going to add the hub and get the battery monitoring going today.

 

[BourbonRunner]

I’ve updated my Gazelle thread with some hacks I did today. I think I solved the center collapse issue. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...psa-some-workarounds-hacks.63794/post-1175139

Noted, thanks for the heads up. Watched through your video. I think for our purpose the smaller would be fine, especially given the size constraints. That double is MASSIVE!

 

[smlobx]

Noted, thanks for the heads up. Watched through your video. I think for our purpose the smaller would be fine, especially given the size constraints. That double is MASSIVE!

The issue for me regarding the T4 and its variants is the length when stored is longer than the length of our bed…no bueno.
I did find that there is a T3 tandem hub with 2 rooms that will fit and that may be what we get for the kids..

https://gazelletents.com/products/t3-tandem-hub-tent

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

The issue for me regarding the T4 and its variants is the length when stored is longer than the length of our bed…no bueno.
I did find that there is a T3 tandem hub with 2 rooms that will fit and that may be what we get for the kids..

https://gazelletents.com/products/t3-tandem-hub-tent

That’s a good point. My T4 plus, in its bag is longer than the bed, so it rides on the rack. Based on the design, I’m not surprised if the T4 is the same length. That has to be a big consideration before someone buys one.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Got the hub installed. I hate the battery box and it’s lid. With the cat 6 plugged in it won’t sit down all the way. Had to cut out part of the back side. At least it’s hidden.

The DC home app on the phone and the Garmin now shows both devices.

 

[BourbonRunner]

The issue for me regarding the T4 and its variants is the length when stored is longer than the length of our bed…no bueno.
I did find that there is a T3 tandem hub with 2 rooms that will fit and that may be what we get for the kids..

https://gazelletents.com/products/t3-tandem-hub-tent

That’s a good point. My T4 plus, in its bag is longer than the bed, so it rides on the rack. Based on the design, I’m not surprised if the T4 is the same length. That has to be a big consideration before someone buys one.

Good point. I'm a bit out from adding a JT to the fleet and I planned on putting it on the Bronclet's roof rack anyway but that's a pretty big setup.

I'll have to check out that T3 Tandem with a screened porch though. Those bugs on Assateague are brutal.

 

[HereWeGo]

Got the hub installed. I hate the battery box and it’s lid. With the cat 6 plugged in it won’t sit down all the way. Had to cut out part of the back side. At least it’s hidden.

What brand circuit breakers are those? I see a wide range of prices for the same looking breaker. That's not something to go cheap on, but don't want to pay inflated price if they're really all the same.

Why is the fridge breaker different? Does it do something different than the others?

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

What brand circuit breakers are those? I see a wide range of prices for the same looking breaker. That's not something to go cheap on, but don't want to pay inflated price if they're really all the same.

Why is the fridge breaker different? Does it do something different than the others?

They’re RedWolf. They’re pretty cheap. I didn’t actually find more expensive 12v circuit breakers on Amazon. I’m 99% sure all the ones on Amazon are the same with different labels stuck on them coming out of the same factory in China. I’m not sure about the brand of the fridge one. It’s only 15A which is why the different form factor. The rest are 60A.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Update:

This isn’t a scientific test but it gives me a good sense of things under no-effort conditions. I’ve had my empty ARB fridge running in the truck since Sunday. I don’t know what the battery level was on Sunday because I didn’t yet have the hub. I drove to VaBeach and back. I’ve seen about a 10% drop in battery overnights since I’ve had the hub, so I don’t think the battery was full when l started. I’ve kept the fridge in the closed bed, set to 28 degrees in 85+ degree weather from Sunday evening until Thursday afternoon. I work from home so the truck just sat (another good reason to have a Solar charger). Where my truck is parked the Renogy 100W solar panel gets maybe 2 hours of good-ish sun a day parked on the side between my house and the neighbors, but it also was overcast half the week. I’ve done nothing to position the solar panel for optimum charging; it’s sitting flat. I haven’t done anything to it. I also disconnected the system for about an hour midday on Tuesday to wire up the hub, so it lost that good charging time. In other words, it’s been crappy conditions for keeping the battery charged. Thursday afternoon the battery was at 40%. Today I drove for about 3 hours. The battery was back at 100% in a little less than 2.

Obviously, a big part of this is the ARB. It just doesn’t use much power to maintain temps even in an enclosed space. But the Renogy panel puts out a lot of wattage in crappy conditions. I even was getting 1 watt driving through the Monitor-Merrimac tunnel from the dim tunnel lights! I get several watts when the sun is behind my neighbors house. On alternator power, the DCC50S charges fast. I’m really impressed with this setup. I’m also thrilled that I was able to sideload the Renogy and ARB apps onto my Garmin Tread so I can monitor the fridge, battery and charger at a glance while driving.

I think in real world use, the performance will be even better. The fridge will be full, which is easier to keep cold. The bed will be open most of the time, so the ARB will run a lot less. I’ll take the time to position the solar panel, and I’ll have 200W more solar to add to it.

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