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To Re-gear or Not to Re-gear

Panthers65

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Okay. So if I'm primarily in the city (stop & go), then I'll see improvement on gas mileage ?
Hard to change MPGs in the city. You will have more low-end torque with the regear, which means your engine will work less hard to get the Jeep moving, to pull trailers, ect... if everything else is 100% the same, yes you would see more MPGs. In reality you likely wouldn't see a difference because of external factors.
 

TxYankee

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Not exactly the same question, but it’s similar enough that I want to piggy back in this topic.
I am in the process of speccing my new gladiator and am on the fence about selecting the max tow package for the upgraded axle ratio.
The jeep will be my daily driver (50 mile round trip Highway driving at speed and stop and go) with some fun in the mud and on the beach on the weekends. I don’t plan to tow, and really the ratio was for going bigger on tires and acceleration. With all that being said is it really just better to go with the base ratio and save the money for a later regearing if/when I need it (ie go with 35’s or find that the acceleration is just not acceptable)
 

Geoarch

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Just installed a hard tonneau cover (70 lbs) and I'm looking to add on 33's to the Sport S, from the factory I got 3.73 gears but I'm noticing that I may need to re-gear to 4.10 to avoid transmission problems.

I heard that it's pricey, Do I even need to re-gear ?
I will say that installing 34s will reduce your final gear ratio from 4.10 (in a Rubicon) to about 3.97. To compensate you would have to go to 4.24: https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/

I believe Mopar only has a 4.88, but there are many others.
 

1996XJ

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I ran Rubicon tires and wheels on my Overland with the stock 3.73 gears - absolutely zero issues. No need to regear anything for 33s. Hundreds of people run Rubicon tires on their Overland and Sport Gladiators.



You would have to add a hell of a lot of weight for it to matter. I've hauled 1,000+ pounds in mine with Rubicon 33s on it, no issues. You may not see 8th quite as often depending on your speed and hills but if I can haul a thousand plus pounds, run a steel bumper, steel skid plate and 80 pound winch on mine with 3.73 gears and 33s - that means he could add a couple hundred pounds or more and be fine.
Need to pick your brain sir... Thinking of doing what you did when i get my Sport S. Running 33s on it. This thread seems to point to "you dont need to regear". But do you feel like its actually harming the transmission at all to run 33s with a mild load in the bed on the daily drive? Everyone says you wont see 8th gear or it might be sluggish but do you think its bad on the transmission to say run 33s on the Sport S without regearing long term? Or same for 35s on the the 4:10 gearing of a mojave long term? Thanks and appreciate it. Gas milage and speed are not really a concern just dont want to hurt my transmission or have jeep get a reason to get out of a warranty claim. Anyone else is free to chime in with their opinions as well.
 

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Vincent

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Need to pick your brain sir... Thinking of doing what you did when i get my Sport S. Running 33s on it. This thread seems to point to "you dont need to regear". But do you feel like its actually harming the transmission at all to run 33s with a mild load in the bed on the daily drive? Everyone says you wont see 8th gear or it might be sluggish but do you think its bad on the transmission to say run 33s on the Sport S without regearing long term? Or same for 35s on the the 4:10 gearing of a mojave long term? Thanks and appreciate it. Gas milage and speed are not really a concern just dont want to hurt my transmission or have jeep get a reason to get out of a warranty claim. Anyone else is free to chime in with their opinions as well.
added :
@ShadowsPapa

good question...
 

bleda2002

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Need to pick your brain sir... Thinking of doing what you did when i get my Sport S. Running 33s on it. This thread seems to point to "you dont need to regear". But do you feel like its actually harming the transmission at all to run 33s with a mild load in the bed on the daily drive? Everyone says you wont see 8th gear or it might be sluggish but do you think its bad on the transmission to say run 33s on the Sport S without regearing long term? Or same for 35s on the the 4:10 gearing of a mojave long term? Thanks and appreciate it. Gas milage and speed are not really a concern just dont want to hurt my transmission or have jeep get a reason to get out of a warranty claim. Anyone else is free to chime in with their opinions as well.
Not going to harm anything running the 8 as a 7 speed. You will be slower with less torque, but no damage
 

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added :
@ShadowsPapa

good question...
The top gears are overdrive. No big deal not using them. My truck with all the weight - if it's windy at all I don't see 8th gear.
Driving 40 minutes to the dealer across the county for service (with the plow on) my truck stayed in 5th almost the whole way. I saw 6th a couple of times.
It's worse to insist on seeing the higher gears, and lugging the engine, than not using those gears, as long as the temperatures stay below the danger level.
My F250 had a tow mode that locked out the overdrive gear. Towing with the button pressed means it never was allowed to shift up to 6th (been a while, I think 6th was top gear in that one)


Not going to harm anything running the 8 as a 7 speed. You will be slower with less torque, but no damage
^^^^^^^
Yeah, what he said.
Better to stay out of a gear that would drop engine RPM too far down and lug the engine.

My thing would be to run a combination of gears and tires that made sure my engine speed could be kept up and not lug it.
That's why although I'd like to move up a notch in diameter when I need tires next time around, I'm concerned that with the 3.73 gears I'd be making the engine run slower/lower RPM.
 

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The top gears are overdrive. No big deal not using them. My truck with all the weight - if it's windy at all I don't see 8th gear.
Driving 40 minutes to the dealer across the county for service (with the plow on) my truck stayed in 5th almost the whole way. I saw 6th a couple of times.
It's worse to insist on seeing the higher gears, and lugging the engine, than not using those gears, as long as the temperatures stay below the danger level.
My F250 had a tow mode that locked out the overdrive gear. Towing with the button pressed means it never was allowed to shift up to 6th (been a while, I think 6th was top gear in that one)



^^^^^^^
Yeah, what he said.
Better to stay out of a gear that would drop engine RPM too far down and lug the engine.

My thing would be to run a combination of gears and tires that made sure my engine speed could be kept up and not lug it.
That's why although I'd like to move up a notch in diameter when I need tires next time around, I'm concerned that with the 3.73 gears I'd be making the engine run slower/lower RPM.
Great response!
 
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So... After spending the past year in "Jeep University", the term "Cry once, Buy Once" seems to be an ongoing theme.

I've come to the realization that if I install 33's with heavier aftermarket 20 inch rims , there's no need to regear.

If I go with those same after market 20 inch rims and install 35's, I will need to to re-gear at some point sooner rather than later along with installing a leveling kit (new control arms, steering stabilizer, shocks, springs, etc).

My only gripe is that my by re-gearing, the powertrain warranty can be voided.

I would love to keep my Powertrain warranty and possibly extend it, but I'm stuck on where to go from here.
 

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So... After spending the past year in "Jeep University", the term "Cry once, Buy Once" seems to be an ongoing theme.

I've come to the realization that if I install 33's with heavier aftermarket 20 inch rims , there's no need to regear.

If I go with those same after market 20 inch rims and install 35's, I will need to to re-gear at some point sooner rather than later along with installing a leveling kit (new control arms, steering stabilizer, shocks, springs, etc).

My only gripe is that my by re-gearing, the powertrain warranty can be voided.

I would love to keep my Powertrain warranty and possibly extend it, but I'm stuck on where to go from here.
Don't get 20's and get 37 12.5 17 instead. That's more tire and the 37's in a 17 will weigh the same or less in some cases than the 35 20's. Plus less wheel means less weight as well. Just a thought, who really needs 20's.
 

bleda2002

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So... After spending the past year in "Jeep University", the term "Cry once, Buy Once" seems to be an ongoing theme.

I've come to the realization that if I install 33's with heavier aftermarket 20 inch rims , there's no need to regear.

If I go with those same after market 20 inch rims and install 35's, I will need to to re-gear at some point sooner rather than later along with installing a leveling kit (new control arms, steering stabilizer, shocks, springs, etc).

My only gripe is that my by re-gearing, the powertrain warranty can be voided.

I would love to keep my Powertrain warranty and possibly extend it, but I'm stuck on where to go from here.
Regear will void your diffs, not your engine or transmission or transfer case, so it depends on what part of the powertrain warranty you care about. You could also have the dealer install Mopar 4.88s and basically get a few years of warranty that way.
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