For the steering wheel I've found it's easier on jack stands under the axle with the big tires. If not I end up turning it too much one way or the other due to the tire resistance/flexWell since we are on this topic. Does anyone have some tips for me to get my toe zeroed, or slightly in or out.. and ALSO my steering wheel straight?
I can never seem to get it where I want it. I know that it's possible.
porque no los dos!?
One reason I do it the way I do is that the tires won't turn, the steering wheel will much more easily.
When I had the stock draglink I could do it reliably on the ground. With the rpm steering I just find it really tough as it feels like it's pushing the tire and the pitman arm so even if I start with the tires straight by the time I turn it enough to turn the wheel it's pushed the tire too and now it's not straight anymore. In the air for whatever reason I can reliably just straighten the wheel, doesn't honestly make a ton of sense to me why it makes a difference, but it does.
Amen. Must be my OCD? Whatever. If it ain't straight, I'll spend whatever time it takes to make it so.
So i think theres defintly a truth to toe out being correct. Weird that its only an issue now, also could be that some stock are slightly differnt then other. Stock for stock, I see the base and overland models having the issue the most, so the smallest tires, also variance axle to axle as camber measurement within spec is -.25 +/- .5. So .25 postive camber is within spec and I've seen some come in with that or just about that much positive camber. Also note that the same lower control arm is used on all JTs stock from sport to Rubi to Mojave. Thats why the spec for caster is slightly off. All these thing could lead to some needing toe in, some toe out. Very possible but also case per case and not something ANY delaer is going to get paid to measure or be required to know.Interesting thinking and I've pondered that - and I don't have the answer for whether or not these are positive or negative scrub as they sit STOCK.
However, the toe-in setting should be a clue. If these are set to factory spec which is toe in, and they would naturally toe in, you'd see feathering of the tires due to the increase in toe-in as you drive.
Guys and gals who put on different wheels to move the tires out move their trucks naturally toward positive scrub radius. Taller tires move you toward negative. So one could do some math, put on taller tires and different offset wheels and keep the same scrub radius as stock or close to it.
Too much negative scrub radius, it’s unstable and provides less feedback.
Bingo! I found a guy who measured!
This is his quote -
A stock Jeep JK Unlimited Rubicon scrub radius is approximately positive 1-1.5-inch with 32” tires.
The problem is that he states taller tires would increase it - looks to me that raising that axle by using taller tires brings the intersection up and reduces scrub radius - am I thinking that right?
One thing that can happen with messing with these angles is the changing of the effect of the SAI - the vehicle may not want to return to center as well. People blame "oh, you don't have enough caster". So they keep bumping caster to compensate when what they've done is made other changes that also impact how the vehicle wants to return to center or track.
Ugh, my head is spinning with math and geometry and I've got powdercoating to do so likely will try to purge this from my head for a while.
BTW - that's a technical term in Virginia.
In Iowa, it's "that turny thing" as my wife would say.
None of this should cause any form of a steeing vibration let alone death wobble though, I must say that. I have also seen a handful of JTs sports or overlands with heavily worn outer sidewalls, I always assumed its from the driver acting like its a sports car. Now thinking it could very so be those that are at the outer edge of camber specs and those being factory toed in probably need toed out.
I think the Army beat you to it - and the Germans before that - furchtbar (terrible)
Id' like to see stock caster angles on sport vs Mojave vs RubiconI got curious and took a picture of a random on lot vehicle. Anyone see what I see? (Yes truck is level in our drive through, the othe side was identical)
Sport = 4.65° +/- 1.00°
That's specs and not set, but now I see your post about none coming with factory alignment.
