Track Bar Fractured

[InvertedLogic]

You got 60k miles out of wearable parts? How's that barely adequate?

I know of no other vehicle where the norm is replacing TREs and Ball Joints every 60k

Sponsored

 

[Zachanadandy]

I know of no other vehicle where the norm is replacing TREs and Ball Joints every 60k

A rack and pinion, IFS setup will mask worn parts much better than a solid axle. Just because you didn't replace them at 60k doesn't mean they weren't just as worn. That's why you'll see ifs rigs on the side of the freeway with the knuckle half off the vehicle pretty regularly. They'll let you run them until full on failure as death wobble doesn't exist with IFS.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But what do I know, my rigs just get driven to the mall.

Damn - the parking by your malls is horrible! I thought construction and busted up roads got bad here........
If that's how you have to get to shopping, we've got it lucky.

 

[Stan H]

No one on here, or anyone, should consider you a mall crawler. I know I don’t. I agree that I don’t NEED 2.5 ton steering to do the things I do, or the things you do. But I prefer overbuilt. And I know that’s a preference. Most of my wheeling buddies have all three front steering links from the factory, and they do all the same things. Ok, maybe not “Dan lines”. But I like to push things.

Dang overachiever

 

[D_JT]

Doing more harm than good? No more death wobble I think it’s doing more good, and no harm. I’ve read every article I could find about DW. I found the bushing off the Rough Country. I removed that and replaced with top of the line Fox stabilizers. I’ve been Death wobble free for over 30 thousand miles. This fractured arm is a result of the initial injury. We’ll find out in a few days when I install the new Synergy and take it from there.

So, I know you think you know what you are talking about. But I promise you, you don't have a clue. Yes. It may have stopped the death wobble. BUT it did not fix it. You still have a death wobble issue that's being masked by, not one but two steering stabilizers. If your steering is set up correctly, you technically don't need a steering stabilizer at all. If you truly think the death wobble is gone. Then remove the dual stabilizer or at least run one stabilizer and report back.

 

[Rusty PW]

There's rust where the crack started

I was expecting more rust, deeper into the crack.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You got 60k miles out of wearable parts? How's that barely adequate?

Maybe I’m unrealistic, but ball joints should last longer than that. They don’t, but they should.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Maybe I’m unrealistic, but ball joints should last longer than that. They don’t, but they should.

150,000 on the original ball joints in my SX4 - and it came to me with both main leaves broken in the rear springs, the left front spring had a coil busted out, the driver's seat frame came out in 5 pieces, the front valance had hit more than just a few rocks....................

It is odd that the Jeep joints don't last longer - they don't have the same range and varied directions of movement others have.
I wish they were greaseable.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Maybe I’m unrealistic, but ball joints should last longer than that. They don’t, but they should.

I agree they should, but with the JL they went to plastic liners so I expect them to go early. That said the JT has gotten beat like a scalded dog since day 1 and has been on 37s since it had 1100 miles on it and the ball joints are still stock at 38k. Ready to throw HD ball joints in at the 1st sign of a shimmy but so far so good. I'm a run it until it NEEDS replaced type of guy knowing full well the stock parts are on borrowed time. If nothing else I just like to prove the internet wrong. We've all seen the lists both here and on the JL forum of all the parts you need to run 37s. Some guys argue you have to build to the level your truck is day one to even think about 37s if you're going to wheel it. Meanwhile our 1st JLUR was still on the stock track bar and tie rod on 38s when it was stolen at 63k miles. Wheeled hard all over the country. Pritchett Canyon, gutbuster when it was a washed out nightmare in the rain, holcomb creek, the Rubicon twice. The stock trackbar had the axle within 1/4" of perfectly centered when I put the synergy flipped tie rod and raised track bar bracket on so I figured run it until it fails... it never did. The ball joints made it 40k miles. The wife's current JLUR with the XR package has been on 39s for 28k miles, 1st 20k were on the factory 35s. Ball joints were shot at 30k, but the 39" mud hogs are heavy so I'm ok with it. The stock tie rod is still good. Yeti flipped drag link and track bar on that one. If you want peace of mind that you won't need to replace anything for awhile you can go full build out the gate for sure. My issue is the gatekeeping telling people they have to dump $20k into the suspension if you're going to wheel it. You don't and I've proven it multiple times for a total of 150k miles on stock JL/JT tie rods alone.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I agree they should, but with the JL they went to plastic liners so I expect them to go early. That said the JT has gotten beat like a scalded dog since day 1 and has been on 37s since it had 1100 miles on it and the ball joints are still stock at 38k. Ready to throw HD ball joints in at the 1st sign of a shimmy but so far so good. I'm a run it until it NEEDS replaced type of guy knowing full well the stock parts are on borrowed time. If nothing else I just like to prove the internet wrong. We've all seen the lists both here and on the JL forum of all the parts you need to run 37s. Some guys argue you have to build to the level your truck is day one to even think about 37s if you're going to wheel it. Meanwhile our 1st JLUR was still on the stock track bar and tie rod on 38s when it was stolen at 63k miles. Wheeled hard all over the country. Pritchett Canyon, gutbuster when it was a washed out nightmare in the rain, holcomb creek, the Rubicon twice. The stock trackbar had the axle within 1/4" of perfectly centered when I put the synergy flipped tie rod and raised track bar bracket on so I figured run it until it fails... it never did. The ball joints made it 40k miles. The wife's current JLUR with the XR package has been on 39s for 28k miles, 1st 20k were on the factory 35s. Ball joints were shot at 30k, but the 39" mud hogs are heavy so I'm ok with it. The stock tie rod is still good. Yeti flipped drag link and track bar on that one. If you want peace of mind that you won't need to replace anything for awhile you can go full build out the gate for sure. My issue is the gatekeeping telling people they have to dump $20k into the suspension if you're going to wheel it. You don't and I've proven it multiple times for a total of 150k miles on stock JL/JT tie rods alone.

There is definitely no reason to dump 20k or even close just to run 37’s. Thats nuts.

 

[whysoserious]

Y'all gotta wrap this up... I'm running out of popcorn...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Y'all gotta wrap this up... I'm running out of popcorn...

Sun is setting soon - how about a bonfire and s'mores?

 

[Stan H]

I was expecting more rust, deeper into the crack.

Valid point, to me that shows that slight damage can occur and overtime weaken it. I am shocked at how thing that DOM is. Man am I glad I went with forged. Since install of the forged track bar I have hit some flat doozies. And no damage held up strong .

 

[flightace37]

OP,

Your front track bar has failed. Have you checked how your rear track bar is doing? The stock one on our 2024 JTR was rather flexible thin rolled steel…

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

Post #15 from the OP:

There it is, 25 mph is not good.

Not a racing truck.

Might have bent the frame. And no matter how many steering stabs you put in, it won't be right.

Sponsored