Trying to Decide on Rear Bumper

[Rcoe]

To my knowledge, Artec’s receiver can’t be used for towing.

Most of the aftermarket bumpers are not certified for towing. I simply cost them too much money to go thru the process.

While their hitch does look pretty stout I certainly would not tow anything heavy with it.

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[WILDHOBO]

Most of the aftermarket bumpers are not certified for towing. I simply cost them too much money to go thru the process.

While their hitch does look pretty stout I certainly would not tow anything heavy with it.

I understand that. That’s why I’m sticking with the Oem receiver as a known quantity. I’d certainly be fine with an aftermarket receiver that tucked up further, and was rated as a class IV receiver though. But not a bumper receiver. I also don’t want the receiver any higher than it already is on mine. I already require an 11” drop for my cargo trailer.

 

[bigrittie]

I’ve been rabbit holing on the net for weeks regarding a good replacement rear bumper. My requirements are good either integrated or add-on bed sliders, compatibility with a hitch for actual towing (currently have Oem receiver), higher clearance than stock, sensor holes for Oem sensors. Not a deal breaker, but my preference would not be to put the plate on the tailgate. Even if it needs to be removed or flipped up for wheeling.

Price does matter unfortunately. My second steel mopar bumper is still viable, so if it’s too expensive right now, it can go back on for now.

I like the Savvy stuff, and it’s on this list, but I’m not crazy about the bed protection. This one from cavfab doesn’t look bad. But I’m open to suggestions. That’s the reason for this thread. Thanks!

https://cavfab.com/products/jt-rear-ultra-clearance-bumper?variant=48768081166588

I’ve been rabbit holing on the net for weeks regarding a good replacement rear bumper. My requirements are good either integrated or add-on bed sliders, compatibility with a hitch for actual towing (currently have Oem receiver), higher clearance than stock, sensor holes for Oem sensors. Not a deal breaker, but my preference would not be to put the plate on the tailgate. Even if it needs to be removed or flipped up for wheeling.

Price does matter unfortunately. My second steel mopar bumper is still viable, so if it’s too expensive right now, it can go back on for now.

I like the Savvy stuff, and it’s on this list, but I’m not crazy about the bed protection. This one from cavfab doesn’t look bad. But I’m open to suggestions. That’s the reason for this thread. Thanks!

https://cavfab.com/products/jt-rear-ultra-clearance-bumper?variant=48768081166588

I built my own rear bumper for under$200 in material. Stronger than any mass produced bumper on the market. I can add a hitch receiver easily and have more clearance than any other bumper on the market. I shaved 8" From stock tow bumper

 

[WILDHOBO]

I built my own rear bumper for under$200 in material. Stronger than any mass produced bumper on the market. I can add a hitch receiver easily and have more clearance than any other bumper on the market. I shaved 8" From stock tow bumper

You’re speaking my language. I want simple and strength. But I’m going to use the rubicon sliders as a mounting point. That way I don’t need to figure out a slider wrap around design with my small brain. I love what you did.

 

[Jaxmax]

I think you are looking for the perfect bumper with high clearance, no cutting body and a certified hitch , what you need to build is a bumper coming off above the factory hitch then going up on the the sides and it should wrap as one piece around sides, perhaps with pipe loops coming up on sides to protect sheet metal. You will need a good hitch skid no wider then the tow eyes, unless you modify them, you still will struggle with the hitch dragging. I know Relentless does not meet your needs for spare tire, hitch height , and certified receiver, but this pictures shows what you have to over come. I have no doubt Dan will come up with some thing….Jack

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I built my own rear bumper for under$200 in material. Stronger than any mass produced bumper on the market. I can add a hitch receiver easily and have more clearance than any other bumper on the market. I shaved 8" From stock tow bumper

That is exactly what I was imagining. Plate can go on the tailgate and it looks like the corner sliders would fit right in there as well. Well done, Sir.

 

[bigrittie]

That is exactly what I was imagining. Plate can go on the tailgate and it looks like the corner sliders would fit right in there as well. Well done, Sir.

If you look closely you'll see my plate is mounted underneath the bed.

You’re speaking my language. I want simple and strength. But I’m going to use the rubicon sliders as a mounting point. That way I don’t need to figure out a slider wrap around design with my small brain. I love what you did.

I trimmed that extra 3" off the bottom of the bed. The Rubi side slider's won't work on mine.

That is exactly what I was imagining. Plate can go on the tailgate and it looks like the corner sliders would fit right in there as well. Well done, Sir.

I trimmed it high and tight and added some amozom fender trim. Shaving the bottom 3" helps prevent it From getting damaged From coming off rocks

 

[WILDHOBO]

I think you are looking for the perfect bumper with high clearance, no cutting body and a certified hitch , what you need to build is a bumper coming off above the factory hitch then going up on the the sides and it should wrap as one piece around sides, perhaps with pipe loops coming up on sides to protect sheet metal. You will need a good hitch skid no wider then the tow eyes, unless you modify them, you still will struggle with the hitch dragging. I know Relentless does not meet your needs for spare tire, hitch height , and certified receiver, but this pictures shows what you have to over come. I have no doubt Dan will come up with some thing….Jack

Exactly right, Jack. I love the lines of the relentless. If I could put the spare in the bed, it would be near perfect, if I make one, it’ll never look as good as a professional design, but it might be fun, so why not. Thanks!

 

[WILDHOBO]

That is exactly what I was imagining. Plate can go on the tailgate and it looks like the corner sliders would fit right in there as well. Well done, Sir.

Agreed.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If you look closely you'll see my plate is mounted underneath the bed.

I trimmed that extra 3" off the bottom of the bed. The Rubi side slider's won't work on mine.

I trimmed it high and tight and added some amozom fender trim. Shaving the bottom 3" helps prevent it From getting damaged From coming off rocks

I see that now. I still love it. Thanks for the inspiration.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

If you look closely you'll see my plate is mounted underneath the bed.

I saw it but not sure how that would go over here in California. Haven’t been out to Ft. Worth for a LAWNG time.

 

[KX L]

Checking that one out. Thanks. Wasn’t on my radar.

Not sure what some of these guys are thinking. IMO a bumper is supposed to stick out some and protect the body panels. It doesn't look like the bumper shown sticks out at all.

The great thing about the Gladiator is the height so the bumper doesn't have to stick out much to line up perfectly with the front end of a lot of cars.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Not sure what some of these guys are thinking. IMO a bumper is supposed to stick out some and protect the body panels. It doesn't look like the bumper shown sticks out at all.

The great thing about the Gladiator is the height so the bumper doesn't have to stick out much to line up perfectly with the front end of a lot of cars.

From experience, during a rear end impact most sedan type vehicles on the road are going to slide under your Jeep if you even have a little bit of lift. This happened to me around 2012 in my LJ. Rear end was fully armored and I got rear ended by an Elantra (sp) traveling at 80mph. I was picking pieces of her fenders out of my wheel wells before I drove away after being released from the scene. Shocks were jacked. Control arms were jacked. Frame was perfectly straight. Anything back there that bolts to and reinforces the frame is going to increase your Jeeps survival rate.

Side note: DO NOT PICK FENDER PIECES FROM YOUR WHEEL WELLS UNLESS YOUR ARMS ARE COVERED!!!! Newer age radiator fluid will give you some pretty nasty burns if you get it on your skin. It ate through my hoody quickly and I was “slightly” uncomfortable until I flushed my skin for a while.

 

[WILDHOBO]

From experience, during a rear end impact most sedan type vehicles on the road are going to slide under your Jeep if you even have a little bit of lift. This happened to me around 2012 in my LJ. Rear end was fully armored and I got rear ended by an Elantra (sp) traveling at 80mph. I was picking pieces of her fenders out of my wheel wells before I drove away after being released from the scene. Shocks were jacked. Control arms were jacked. Frame was perfectly straight. Anything back there that bolts to and reinforces the frame is going to increase your Jeeps survival rate.

Side note: DO NOT PICK FENDER PIECES FROM YOUR WHEEL WELLS UNLESS YOUR ARMS ARE COVERED!!!! Newer age radiator fluid will give you some pretty nasty burns if you get it on your skin. It ate through my hoody quickly and I was “slightly” uncomfortable until I flushed my skin for a while.

Holy swearword Batman.

 

[redline61]

I went with the Evo rear bumper and some DV8 bed sliders. Picked up 10" of extra rear clearance and still have a receiver. Still not in love with the license plate mount so I run my stock bumper most of the year. I can say this high clearance bumper was a game changer when I went back to Moab. No more dragging everywhere I went.

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