UPDATE, IT WORKS: Splicing LED cubes into halogen reverse lights

[Medical_Bartender]

So I recently bought/installed a new rear bumper that has cutouts for LED cubes to be added. Ideally I'd like to add a pair of rigid or KC LED cubes and just splice them into the existing wiring like I did with my JK. BUUUUUUUUTT I am unsure of how this will play with the myriad of computers and tech onboard. I do have a TAZER installed and know how to change the reverse lights from "halogen" to "LED", but has anyone actually tried running LED cubes in conjunction with the stock halogen reverse lights?

-Will

Sponsored

 

[CrazyCooter]

Pretty sure you TIPM is not going to like that. I'd get a piggyback harness for behind your 7way trailer connector. Use the 12V charge wire as a power source for a relay and the reverse wire to trigger the relay. If the current draw is low enough, you may just use the reverse light wire for the cubes? No splicing of the factory harness this way.

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-56584-C...0&sprefix=5+pin+trailer+splice,aps,121&sr=8-3

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Generally the issue (as far as I understand) with converting halogen to LED is the computer detects too low of a draw and assumes there is a bulb-out error or results in the fast blinking (maybe others can correct me or have a better explanation).

Since LED is usually much lower draw (unless these are ridiculously high output), it seems like adding slightly more draw wouldn’t have a negligible impact unless you go beyond the fuse rating (also, don’t just add a bigger fuse to solve that…)

 

[Medical_Bartender]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't consider using the trailer connector, but that just might work. I might give tapping into the factory reverse lights a try since the cubes are a very low draw. Will report back what happens..

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Generally the issue (as far as I understand) with converting halogen to LED is the computer detects too low of a draw and assumes there is a bulb-out error or results in the fast blinking (maybe others can correct me or have a better explanation).

Since LED is usually much lower draw (unless these are ridiculously high output), it seems like adding slightly more draw wouldn’t have a negligible impact unless you go beyond the fuse rating (also, don’t just add a bigger fuse to solve that…)

These do freak out at times with an unexpected load. The system also regulates the voltage going to each corner. It's amazing what these trucks know about their environment and themselves.
I, for one, would never splice into a factory harness and "add things" or mix light types.
There are other ways.....

 

[Mr._Bill]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't consider using the trailer connector, but that just might work. I might give tapping into the factory reverse lights a try since the cubes are a very low draw. Will report back what happens..

I used the Curt harness to install additional reverse lights so that I would not damage the factory harness. They have been working great for three years. No settings had to be changed, and no relays were needed.

Edit:
These were the lights I installed. They were $145 in 2019.
KC HiLiTES 519 LED Backup Flood Light System (C Series C2 Pair), 1 Pack https://a.co/d/4Jujpct

 

[Medical_Bartender]

Just a quick update, I purchased the Curt harness from amazon linked above and spliced the LED cubes into it. Worked like a charm. I used blue for reverse light hot and white for ground per the Curt wiring diagram. Thanks for the help yall!

Sponsored