LED Bulb Replacement - IT WORKS!

[Dreaded1]

Are you lifted?
If so, did you re-aim the lights after the lift was installed?

Kevin

I am still at stock height and tires.

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[Kevin_D]

I am still at stock height and tires.

Well, then the next obvious answer is to lower your aim a little…

Damn, that sounds like some sort of de-motivational comment, doesn’t it?

Kevin

 

[MPMB]

I still don't know why people do the bulb swap instead of buying the correct lights for the correct purpose.
They'll believe the "I did it and I love it" crowd instead of the true experts out there who have been into auto lighting for decades.
I will never ever swap bulbs of a different type into a housing. I will only replace entire assemblies. There are reasons the lights have specific housings and reflectors.
You may think it's ok on your end - but likely someone out there in the other car thinks otherwise.

I love this quote from Daniel Stern - lighting consultant for MOPAR (and likely others) ->

If you just cannot find someone who has an optical aiming machine and is willing to use it correctly, you will have to make do with the distant second-preference method of putting the vehicle on flat, level ground and shining the lamps on a wall a certain distance away. It has to be done as carefully and precisely as possible, so here are detailed instructions:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
--------------
In other words, he's not even a fan of "find flat ground and a wall" method and calls it a distant second best.
------------


The low beam pattern of a visually-aimable headlamp has a distinct horizontal "cutoff" at the top of the beam pattern. It may be hard/razor-sharp, or it may be softer/fuzzier. Below the cutoff is bright light, and above is dark. Vertical aim is done by measuring and adjusting the height of this cutoff relative to the reference marks you put on the wall.

For U.N. (ECE, European, "E-code") and U.S. VOL headlamps, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the left half of the beam pattern, and it should be aligned with the B-B line.

U.S. (DOT, SAE) VOR headlamps can have a straight-across cutoff line extending all the way across the top of the low beam, or a stairstep-shaped cutoff that's lower on the left and higher on the right side of the beam, or just a squared-off top edge of the high-intensity "hot spot" (brightest part of the beam). Whichever style it is, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the right half of the beam pattern. It should be aligned with the applicable horizontal line per the table above.

Some LED bulb "replacements" also have horrible heat sinks. Yes, LEDs run cold compared to regular bulbs, but the heat goes somewhere. Some heat sinks are so bad they melt the plastic bulb housing.

Solution? Buy new headlights.

 

[Dreaded1]

We’ll, then the next obvious answer is to lower your aim a little…

Damn, that sounds like some sort of de-motivational comment, doesn’t it?

Kevin

LOL it does

I plan to get in there and drop them a bit. I don't like being flashed, but I do love how bright they are now and I can actually see on the back roads.

 

[IamPro2A]

Get the JScan, it's cheaper than the Tazer. I'm using one on my JT, it does basically everything that the Tazer does but is under $100 for everything, I think I was at $93 for everything including the license to use it. Plus once you buy the equipment you can buy additional license for other vehicles and use it on those as well.

If you just want to change the bulbs and tire size, by all means go with Jscan. But it's not basically the same as the Tazer. The Taser has hardware (not just software like Jscan) that can do a ton of things that Jscan (or AlphaOBD) can never do. If you want these features as well, you pretty much have to go Tazer.

There is also the new off-road turn assist, which isn't on this list.

 

[tas7107]

I ordered a Tazer to solve my LED foglight conversion issue.. One of the features I will use is the Winch Mode for the Idle. Mostly so that when I use the DC/DC charger on my camp trailer, I am spinning the alternator fast enough.
As for replacing bulbs instead of the entire housings, its not because I am cheap, see the price for Morimoto 2Stroke leds, I like the stock look. With the proper adjustments there is no reason to be blinding other motorists.

 

[Mac]

I still don't know why people do the bulb swap instead of buying the correct lights for the correct purpose.
They'll believe the "I did it and I love it" crowd instead of the true experts out there who have been into auto lighting for decades.
I will never ever swap bulbs of a different type into a housing. I will only replace entire assemblies. There are reasons the lights have specific housings and reflectors.
You may think it's ok on your end - but likely someone out there in the other car thinks otherwise.

I love this quote from Daniel Stern - lighting consultant for MOPAR (and likely others) ->

If you just cannot find someone who has an optical aiming machine and is willing to use it correctly, you will have to make do with the distant second-preference method of putting the vehicle on flat, level ground and shining the lamps on a wall a certain distance away. It has to be done as carefully and precisely as possible, so here are detailed instructions:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
--------------
In other words, he's not even a fan of "find flat ground and a wall" method and calls it a distant second best.
------------


The low beam pattern of a visually-aimable headlamp has a distinct horizontal "cutoff" at the top of the beam pattern. It may be hard/razor-sharp, or it may be softer/fuzzier. Below the cutoff is bright light, and above is dark. Vertical aim is done by measuring and adjusting the height of this cutoff relative to the reference marks you put on the wall.

For U.N. (ECE, European, "E-code") and U.S. VOL headlamps, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the left half of the beam pattern, and it should be aligned with the B-B line.

U.S. (DOT, SAE) VOR headlamps can have a straight-across cutoff line extending all the way across the top of the low beam, or a stairstep-shaped cutoff that's lower on the left and higher on the right side of the beam, or just a squared-off top edge of the high-intensity "hot spot" (brightest part of the beam). Whichever style it is, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the right half of the beam pattern. It should be aligned with the applicable horizontal line per the table above.

Do you have any first hand knowledge on this topic?
You post tons of stuff that is just what anyone can find by using google, the info you posted here is pretty old and out of date, he is also selling a competing product.
I have run the replacement bulbs linked in the beginning of this thread, they work great if you had first hand knowledge you would know they do not put out light in all directions like the original halogen bulbs, they also have any up and down orientation, the cutoff is pretty sharp. I don’t get flashed at all with them.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Do you have any first hand knowledge on this topic?
You post tons of stuff that is just what anyone can find by using google, the info you posted here is pretty old and out of date, he is also selling a competing product.
I have run the replacement bulbs linked in the beginning of this thread, they work great if you had first hand knowledge you would know they do not put out light in all directions like the original halogen bulbs, they also have any up and down orientation, the cutoff is pretty sharp. I don’t get flashed at all with them.

Daniel Stern is the standard in lighting if you've followed anything on lighting it doesn't matter how out dated it is. I will admit the light bulbs are way better now and these seem to not throw the light in the face of on coming traffic but they definitely aren't perfect either. I'm running them as well and don't get flashed much but with that said in my opinion a Cibie conversion will blow most LEDs away, Hella makes a conversion as well that is pretty nice. The only reason I didn't go that route is because I'm a fan of how the headlights look on the JT. Look up Cibie Halogen Conversion and see, I ran it on my JKU for a few years before I done a full LED replacement, not bulbs

 

[21hydrowillys]

I just installed the parts listed below. Minus the headlights. Not available. Went with Trueland brand. Had good reviews.
Night and day difference and pretty simple install. No error messages. Plug and play. All for about $120.
Now time to do the rear lights.

Hope these links work!

Headlights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKCNPD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fogs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8CAC5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
DRL - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H6YPB8N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Front blinker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EEI9LLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon says these won't fit the Gladiator, but they're clearly wrong because they're working.

 

[milokeras]

The final design is really impressive! I want a Lego with an Eiffel Tower with lighting.

 

[domingjm]

I just installed the parts listed below. Minus the headlights. Not available. Went with Trueland brand. Had good reviews.
Night and day difference and pretty simple install. No error messages. Plug and play. All for about $120.
Now time to do the rear lights.

How have the Truelands been working? I just ordered them.

 

[Blade1668]

FYI : The replacement LED's for fog lights, I used yellow ones, I've had failures they warranted the LED's.

 

[domingjm]

Another n=1 for all of these lights working well. I used Truelands and Alla.

 

[texanjeeper]

I replaced my front headlights, foglights, and DRL's quite a while back. I guess it cost me about $200 in all. I had to order the DRL's from the manufacturer directly, because I wanted the switchbacks that have amber turn signals but clear daytime lights. Amazon didn't have those available. My LED headlights started flaking out a couple of months ago, so I replaced those with Sylvania LED's from my local O'Reilly's automotive shop. They work just fine now.

My only complaint is that in the summer heat, if I put on the turn signal, either one, I get about 2 minutes of turn signal then it overheats, and I have to turn off the turn signal for a couple of minutes before I can use them again. So, in the summer, I will wait until I'm closer to actually being able to turn before I put them on. Obviously, this only happens when I have to wait for a turn signal. I'm not sure if this happens with others who have converted to the LED's.

 

[Jgfromthesip]

Confirmed Sylvania H13 Zevo LED fit and work with no bugs or flicker or bulb out indicators - the fogs are actually OEM LED fog lights from a 2-door JL:

Do the high beams work ??

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