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LED Bulb Replacement - IT WORKS!

chithead

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Awesome! I'll try those out for the brake lights then. Those ZEVO 921 are crazy amazing with how much output was there this morning backing out of the driveway. Could see all the way out into the street! Definitely keeping those in the backup bulb spot.

A fellow NC'er, and in Kannapolis no less! That's awesome!
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Jeeperjamie

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Awesome! I'll try those out for the brake lights then. Those ZEVO 921 are crazy amazing with how much output was there this morning backing out of the driveway. Could see all the way out into the street! Definitely keeping those in the backup bulb spot.

A fellow NC'er, and in Kannapolis no less! That's awesome!
I see Concord in your profile, awesome stuff. Nice to talk with some locals:like:
 

Yellow1098

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Quick question guys….will any of H13 halogen replacements work? Thanks as always
 

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Yoshi

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I have the LED package and i get flashed all the time by oncoming drivers...and not in the good way!
I have stock halogen and got flashed twice in one night. Imma bout to go shopping for extra lights to show people that it was on low beam until they flashed me
 

dcmdon

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Obviously it's hard to beat the factory LED's. But it is better than the basic halogen bulbs.
And the beam pattern I'm getting it fine. :like:
I can concur. I put all LED replacement bulbs in my 07 Volvo. Its night and day.

Especially the reverse lights. They are blazing now.
 

tas7107

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Hey all anyone in the thread had this problem? I installed the Morimoto 2-stroke 3.0 LED bulbs into my gladiator foglights. replacing the standard bulbs. Now the fogs will work with the ignition on and engine off but then shutoff sometimes with a flicker when the engine is started... any clue?
 

Jeeperjamie

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Hey all anyone in the thread had this problem? I installed the Morimoto 2-stroke 3.0 LED bulbs into my gladiator foglights. replacing the standard bulbs. Now the fogs will work with the ignition on and engine off but then shutoff sometimes with a flicker when the engine is started... any clue?
Sounds like the system isn't recognizing you have led bulbs and is looking for the Halogen lights, which have more draw. It's thinking there is a bulb out and more than likely you will have to get a JScan or Tazer and set your system for LEDs. Th canbus system is tricky, it will work fine with the engine in the on position most of the time but then do what your describing when you crank it up.
 

texanjeeper

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I'm using Lasfit headlights and fog lights, no issues at all. My Lasfit switchback DRL/turn signal lights work great too, but be warned that the turn signals get too hot in the texas summer and if you're sitting at a stop light waiting to turn, with turn signal on for about 4-5 minutes, they will overheat and you'll get a signal on your dash that the turn signal bulb is out. If you let them sit for a couple of minutes, you can use them again but I tend to manage how long they are on, I'll wait until I'm up closer to the turn before I turn them back on.

The fogs are switchback as well, one push of the fog lamp button and they're brilliant white, turn them off and back on, and they're amber.


Jeep Gladiator LED Bulb Replacement - IT WORKS! 20210502_181300



Jeep Gladiator LED Bulb Replacement - IT WORKS! 20210502_181236


20210502_181300.jpg


20210502_181236.jpg
 

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Dreaded1

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I installed a set of LED headlights from Headlight revolution and had no issues. Except that I am getting glashed now. While installing I checked to make sure the cutoff line was the same in the halogen as LED and I am still getting flashed.
 

tas7107

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Jamie,

I was afraid of that. Now the question is do i throw more money at it by buying a TAZER. The sucky part is I have an AEV Procal Snap that came with the lift kit for this truck but it doenst do anything with the lights :(

Sounds like the system isn't recognizing you have led bulbs and is looking for the Halogen lights, which have more draw. It's thinking there is a bulb out and more than likely you will have to get a JScan or Tazer and set your system for LEDs. Th canbus system is tricky, it will work fine with the engine in the on position most of the time but then do what your describing when you crank it up.
 

Jeeperjamie

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Jamie,

I was afraid of that. Now the question is do i throw more money at it by buying a TAZER. The sucky part is I have an AEV Procal Snap that came with the lift kit for this truck but it doenst do anything with the lights :(
Get the JScan, it's cheaper than the Tazer. I'm using one on my JT, it does basically everything that the Tazer does but is under $100 for everything, I think I was at $93 for everything including the license to use it. Plus once you buy the equipment you can buy additional license for other vehicles and use it on those as well.
 

Kevin_D

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I installed a set of LED headlights from Headlight revolution and had no issues. Except that I am getting glashed now. While installing I checked to make sure the cutoff line was the same in the halogen as LED and I am still getting flashed.
Are you lifted?
If so, did you re-aim the lights after the lift was installed?

Kevin
 

ShadowsPapa

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I still don't know why people do the bulb swap instead of buying the correct lights for the correct purpose.
They'll believe the "I did it and I love it" crowd instead of the true experts out there who have been into auto lighting for decades.
I will never ever swap bulbs of a different type into a housing. I will only replace entire assemblies. There are reasons the lights have specific housings and reflectors.
You may think it's ok on your end - but likely someone out there in the other car thinks otherwise.

I love this quote from Daniel Stern - lighting consultant for MOPAR (and likely others) ->

If you just cannot find someone who has an optical aiming machine and is willing to use it correctly, you will have to make do with the distant second-preference method of putting the vehicle on flat, level ground and shining the lamps on a wall a certain distance away. It has to be done as carefully and precisely as possible, so here are detailed instructions:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
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In other words, he's not even a fan of "find flat ground and a wall" method and calls it a distant second best.
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The low beam pattern of a visually-aimable headlamp has a distinct horizontal "cutoff" at the top of the beam pattern. It may be hard/razor-sharp, or it may be softer/fuzzier. Below the cutoff is bright light, and above is dark. Vertical aim is done by measuring and adjusting the height of this cutoff relative to the reference marks you put on the wall.

For U.N. (ECE, European, "E-code") and U.S. VOL headlamps, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the left half of the beam pattern, and it should be aligned with the B-B line.

U.S. (DOT, SAE) VOR headlamps can have a straight-across cutoff line extending all the way across the top of the low beam, or a stairstep-shaped cutoff that's lower on the left and higher on the right side of the beam, or just a squared-off top edge of the high-intensity "hot spot" (brightest part of the beam). Whichever style it is, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the right half of the beam pattern. It should be aligned with the applicable horizontal line per the table above.
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