Weighing the options

[danimal2000]

The only downside is the Willys offered 2 tow packages (get the one with Class IV hitch, not the ball/plate, check build sheet by adding your VIN to the end of the URL in this link) providing a tow rating up to 4000lbs

I have 21 willys as well with tow pkg. It's 6k tow rating. 4k is without tow package

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[Dilly’S Willy]

I have 21 willys as well with tow pkg. It's 6k tow rating. 4k is without tow package

Hey sounds like you have an automatic '21 Willys. The manual is officially limited to 4k, sucks but with re-gear and other supporting mods I wouldn't doubt it can support 6k or more.

 

[danimal2000]

Hey sounds like you have an automatic '21 Willys. The manual is officially limited to 4k, sucks but with re-gear and other supporting mods I wouldn't doubt it can support 6k or more.

Ah, missed that you had manual.


To the OP, I've loved this truck for daily drive (14mi commute, half highway) and towing the camper (about 4600lb loaded)
Mpg is trash but I knew that going in, still love this jeep

 

[Gizmo]

Never had to have an Anti-Spin rebuilt in any of my Rams or Jeeps in my life time. I have also Had Rubicons with lockers/open diffs and for daily drivers I will take Anti-spin every time. Strictly off- road the lockers are fine. I have not read of a Max-tow having an issue yet not saying it has not happened but not to the point of bigger issues

 

[Blade1668]

Yeah, I really like a loaded Sport S with the max tow and the creature comforts, they're just really rare. One question, can a rear locker be added if I wanted one? Is that a big deal to add?

As easy as any other axles... If you know what you are doing and have the tools, time, place. From what I have read the "newer" design axles are easier to install lockers due to recently designed housing. Many of old school housings are from castings that started being made 60 years ago. Not with the same accuracy as modern manufacturing. I definitely went through hell settings up gears on a old D-44 axle years ago. Trying to get wear pattern spot on.
But most 4x4 shops that do axle work should be able to install a lockers. I've got one I've still not installed in mine. It's from a Rubicon.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I didn’t know we could get a build sheet online. I just went to Jeep and had them print one out for me. I keep it in the glove box just so I can whip it out when I feel the urge.

 

[Blade1668]

Yes, absolutely! That's also my plan with my 2021 Willys (essentially a Sport S with other options) even though it has the Trac-lok aka "Anti-spin" aka a clutch-based rear differential.

You'll appreciate the EATON Detroit True-trac LSD (Torsen aka gear-based) on a MaxTow for a few reasons. It has almost ZERO maintenance compared to Willys LSD or even the OEM lockers (the "Anti-spin" (Willys/Trak-lok) requires rebuilds every 30-45k miles to stay effective or it will become an open differential, and the OEM lockers require "potting" to (significantly) reduce how soon the sensor inside fails (they leak, known issue for the JL/JT platform).

FYI, watch out for the 2024+ Willys as they come standard with a rear locker on the auto. You don't want that open diff AHEM I I mean locker is your situation. For towing you'll want a LSD, just not a locker, those are for extreme off-roading. You have either clutch or gear LSD options, and gear is just the most cost effective. Really, it's almost the same price as the clutch/rear end rebuild kit from Jeep, and you have to keep doing them every 30-45k as they wear out. Gear LSD never wear out, and rarely fail unless severely abused over time.

I can see a Trac-Loc wearing out, but not as often as you said. I might have a few, one with 256000 miles on it another with over 40000 miles. But I always have added the Trac-Loc additive when I replaced gear oil. I actually try to keep a few tubes of it on hand. But the True Trac is considered by many as better. My 90 XJ came with Trac-Lock and my LJ. When I re-geared my XJ, I installed OEM D-44 axle I lucked out at salvage yard. The original axle had over 100000 miles on it with Trac-Loc. I should have got a locker... but I don't trust the ARB lockers and the Detroit wasn't available then or Eaton True Trac.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

I can see a Trac-Loc wearing out, but not as often as you said. I might have a few, one with 256000 miles on it another with over 40000 miles. But I always have added the Trac-Loc additive when I replaced gear oil. I actually try to keep a few tubes of it on hand. But the True Trac is considered by many as better.

Again, if you are mostly on pavement and not beating on them, they won't explode if you don't do fluid services but you absolutely will notice a difference after a rebuild above those miles. How many GM guys talk about "posi-trac" yet have never done rear end fluid services then brag about "burnouts". When you go to watch them do this "burnout" they are smoking one wheel at 140k miles, BuT tHeRe'S tIrE sMoKe. They're better than an open diff, with or without TC/ESC, yes. Using correct friction modifiers helps too.

You mentioned you replaced the gear oil, how often were you doing that? In my street-legal rally car I was doing gear oils every 15-20k with a concoction proven to work for that setup, and not only did the LSD not overheat as quickly, but shifting was butter after every fluid change.

My 34k (at the time) Trac-lok definitely opened the first time I tested the LineLock function, and was confirmed when I checked the pavement. Did both tires spin? Sure, but when the fluid overheated in the lsd after about 3 seconds, it went open. I tried it a couple thousand miles later, and it didn't open that time. YMMV.

OP, sorry for the hijack.

 

[Supazuk]

My take, you can change almost every option but the tow rating

 

[MaximusTX]

I plan to be a first-time Jeep owner in 2026 with a planned purchase of a used Gladiator sometime this new year. I have been doing a lot of window shopping, watching YouTube, searching online, and learning about Jeeps, packages, and all types of things.
What I plan: Mostly (99%) daily driver, which is almost 100% pavement, whether in town or on the highway. I'm not concerned about having a super cushy ride, I've had many trucks, and trucks can be a bit rough. I will tow some with it. When I tow, it will mostly be under 4K lbs, though on rare occasions it could be as much as 5-6K, but probably never over that.

My last 4x4 truck did not have a positive track rear end, making it almost useless to me as a 4x4 when it was off-road or slick outside. In NC where I live, we are more prone to icy winters than snowing winters, but lately it's an occasional blend.

I like the option of the 4:10 year because it tows better generally and it gives me more confidence in going to a 35" tire.

But in reality, on my budget, I am looking at used Jeeps and only 3 models have a 4:10 gear. Rubicon, which holds its value the best, Mojave, and the S with Max towing.

Here is where I'm torn. Is getting something like a High Altitude with all of the creature comforts I want worth compromising on the gear ratio of the Sport S, and the lockers of the Majave or Rubi just because I found more of them in the colors I like, newer with fewer miles, and never or seldom taken off road.... or is it best to either buy a color I'm not as in love with, or have to wait to find the right color, which likely has more miles, older, more offroad use, but has the gear and lockers.

I have run this gambit back and forth 1000 times in my mind. Never having owned one, I really don't know how big a deal the 3:73 vs 4:10 will be if I want to run 35s. I don't really know how big a deal lockers will be during slick conditions. I don't really know if having a wider axle truck vs a standard width matters. What I do know is that I like newer models with fewer miles, loaded features, and specific colors.

Who can put my mind at ease on these variables that I am just not sure about? The max I'd lift one is 2" and that would likely be a AEV spacer lift. Whatever off-roading I do would be lightweight comparatively.

I was in the same boat as you almost 2 years ago. Took me almost 6 months but I found my dream Gladiator. It has everything I wanted except for the color. I would just make a list of the features you want (heated seats, blind spot monitoring, etc), other features can be added later like front trail cam, leather seats, color can be changed with a wrap or paint job if it really bothers you that much but has all the features you want. I would focus more on features you want that can't be added later. Take a look at the diesel if you can find one and ignore 99% of the hate they get as most of it comes from people that don't own one.

 

[Ximoto]

I would go with either the Rubi or Mojave, and suggest test-driving both to see which rides more comfortably for you. I was in a similar situation last year, deciding between a '21 Rubi and a '21 Mojave. Both were low miles and (neither had ever been off-road) and had had a smattering of upgrades. Ultimately, I went with the Mojave. As a larger person, I found the Mojave seats to be more comfortable, and on the highway, I found the wider stance and Mojave-specific front shocks much smoother at speed with little to no bounce/jump from the steering wheel.

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