Weighing the options

[Silverator]

One thing you haven't brought up - getting a Gladiator with SelecTrac auto transmission. For me, that would absolutely be a mandatory option in Icy conditions. Waaaay more important to me than color, 4:10 or other options in a cold environment. It's a fantastic option.

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[Gizmo]

I wanted 4.10 with wide axles Antispin diff for every day driving advantages snow ice sand a little mud just to get to fishing holes and never an open rear. Next I wanted Hydro blue. I wanted that blue since about 1969 and always compromised so at my age this may be my last shot. I wanted the bigger screen radio and the Alpine sound system. I liked the fact the Sport S w/ Max Tow was the lightest. Last I wanted the part time transfer case. Im old school and I know how and when to use it. I found a used 6 month old 7500 mile mint used sport S Max tow that fit the bill

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

You guys need to chill on the whole "auto 4x4", as it's not really any different than an Audi or Subaru with their full-time AWD. The 4x4 system in these trucks (minus the locker models) use OPEN differentials, which means the tire with the least traction will spin, and the TC/ESC systems will cut throttle and activate the brake on the wheel that's spinning to allow the tires with traction to get more power. I'm sure most of you already know this. All you're doing by using "auto 4H" is adding the FAD clutch into the mix, which actually provides less consistent feedback to the driver and could induce a safety issue in truly slick STREET conditions once the front grips, or even damage to the 4x4 system if used on tarmac and it gets sudden grip in a turn (not likely but possible).

The Rubicon/Mojave (true lockers) are just open diffs that can be locked 100% and you don't want that in slick weather/ice. They will bind around turns, and you will experience severe oversteer in the back and severe understeer (if you can steer at all) in the front with those lockers locked.

The Willys trim (pre-2024) comes with "track-lok" aka "anti-spin" aka a CLUTCH-based LSD in the rear. That's what I have in my 2021, and it does 85% of what I need it for. The only downside is the Willys offered 2 tow packages (get the one with Class IV hitch, not the ball/plate, check build sheet by adding your VIN to the end of the URL in this link) providing a tow rating up to 4000lbs (stock/legally) as is, and hasn't nor will ever offer the MaxTow package (7000lbs towing) sadly.

The biggest choice you have right now is:
-Do you want MaxTow or a rear LSD from the factory.

It sounds like the best choice for you would be to save the money on the Sport S trim with all the features and COLOR you want, then use that saved money to upgrade to an EATON True-trac M220. This will get you the MaxTow, COLOR, features, and price you want, plus a better LSD later.

NOTE: I was in your position about 4 months ago. I had almost the SAME requirements, other than NEEDING a manual transmission (less than 50 nationwide at the time). I let go the MaxTow since the manual doesn't get that option, but can come close with a re-gear, axles, and suspension (which we'll have "35's" by then and the needed lift/suspension). I'm stuck in the hills on 3.73s and the 4 speed double OD gearbox, you'll be fine with the auto, MaxTow (4.10), and open diff for now. Just pop 4H to get moving (straight) in the slick crap if you REALLY feel the need, that's what I do in the snow here up north, works great, pop it back to 2H and gravy. Yes I do all that while shifting a manual and it's super easy.

Hope this helps your decision.

 

[Janster]

You guys need to chill on the whole "auto 4x4", as it's not really any different than an Audi or Subaru with their full-time AWD. The 4x4 system in these trucks (minus the locker models) use OPEN differentials, which means the tire with the least traction will spin, and the TC/ESC systems will cut throttle and activate the brake on the wheel that's spinning to allow the tires with traction to get more power. I'm sure most of you already know this. All you're doing by using "auto 4H" is adding the FAD clutch into the mix, which actually provides less consistent feedback to the driver and could induce a safety issue in truly slick STREET conditions once the front grips, or even damage to the 4x4 system if used on tarmac and it gets sudden grip in a turn (not likely but possible).

The Auto4WD in the JT (or the Canyon that I owned) is NOT the same as Audi or Subaru or any other SUV with AWD (ALL WHEEL DRIVE). Where those vehicles run 80%/20% or 60%/40% or whatever it is….. All wheels have some percentage of power ALL the time.

The JT’s AUTO4WD does not have any power to all 4 wheels. It’s REAR wheel drive (2WD) ONLY until it senses slippage and transfers the power (drive) to the front wheels via the T-CASE (Selec-trac).

The FAD operates the same exact way for both Auto4WD and 4hi/4lo. It just engages or disengages the front driveline.

 

[Metalhead]

When I was searching for a Gladiator, I was looking at used at first. I'm building an overlanding rig so my first choice was a mojave. The more research I did I realized a sport s with max tow was the way to go. The sport s has higher payload and tow ratings. Though the diesel is great for towing the weight of the engine reduces payload ratings. It was hard for me to find a used one with what I wanted so ended up buying a 2024 leftover for 15% off sticker price. I wanted the 41 color but ended up with white. I added mopar 2 inch lift and skinny 35 inch tires and am very happy with it.

 

[MPMB]

OP: Sounds like you want the Max Tow.

2nd option would be the Mojave.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

The Auto4WD in the JT (or the Canyon that I owned) is NOT the same as Audi or Subaru or any other SUV with AWD (ALL WHEEL DRIVE). Where those vehicles run 80%/20% or 60%/40% or whatever it is….. All wheels have some percentage of power ALL the time.

- Sorry but this isn't 100% accurate, only the STi from Subaru and the sport model Audis do that. I literally build Subarus for racing, and know every transmission, gear ratio per gearbox, center diff options, etc. Only the STi has a mechanical split center diff using a clutch to lock the F/R together as the driver desires. The Audis that do this function the same way the STi does, albeit more so via the computer on the fly.

Here's that mechanical/clutch system you referred to in action.

The JT’s AUTO4WD does not have any power to all 4 wheels. It’s REAR wheel drive (2WD) ONLY until it senses slippage and transfers the power (drive) to the front wheels via the T-CASE (Selec-trac).

- While you're correct on the FAD part (as you stated below), this is exactly what makes it more like a Toyota/GM/etc with their REACTIVE AWD, power sent to 2 wheels until slip is detected, then the others are sent SOME power. Until the standardization of ABS-based TC/ESC, anyone other than Subaru/Audi wouldn't get enough power to those wheels being given power (via auto-awd) to get out of being stuck. That's why my Subarus would climb out of a ditch, but they Toyota Sienna AWD needed a tow. REACTIVE AWD systems also are prone to overheating in extreme use/overuse cases and will default to open or just fail as any abused part would.

Here's a great example of ACTIVE vs REACTIVE AWD

NOT ALL AWD SYSTEMS ARE THE SAME. This video focused on one brand, but all others use one of these variants.

The FAD operates the same exact way for both Auto4WD and 4hi/4lo. It just engages or disengages the front driveline.

- This is how all other brands other than Subaru/Audi AWD systems work, just on the rear instead of the front. And even the low end AWD from Subaru does this, they send 90F/10R, but that's via a clutch in the center diff (aka t-case in 4x4), which when it overheats, goes full open or overtime...fails like any other abused part.

Here's an AWD system that does the same thing Select-trac from Jeep does.


When people say you need 4L


I hope this was educational, somewhat.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

I plan to be a first-time Jeep owner in 2026 with a planned purchase of a used Gladiator sometime this new year. I have been doing a lot of window shopping, watching YouTube, searching online, and learning about Jeeps, packages, and all types of things.
What I plan: Mostly (99%) daily driver, which is almost 100% pavement, whether in town or on the highway. I'm not concerned about having a super cushy ride, I've had many trucks, and trucks can be a bit rough. I will tow some with it. When I tow, it will mostly be under 4K lbs, though on rare occasions it could be as much as 5-6K, but probably never over that.

My last 4x4 truck did not have a positive track rear end, making it almost useless to me as a 4x4 when it was off-road or slick outside. In NC where I live, we are more prone to icy winters than snowing winters, but lately it's an occasional blend.

I like the option of the 4:10 year because it tows better generally and it gives me more confidence in going to a 35" tire.

But in reality, on my budget, I am looking at used Jeeps and only 3 models have a 4:10 gear. Rubicon, which holds its value the best, Mojave, and the S with Max towing.

Here is where I'm torn. Is getting something like a High Altitude with all of the creature comforts I want worth compromising on the gear ratio of the Sport S, and the lockers of the Majave or Rubi just because I found more of them in the colors I like, newer with fewer miles, and never or seldom taken off road.... or is it best to either buy a color I'm not as in love with, or have to wait to find the right color, which likely has more miles, older, more offroad use, but has the gear and lockers.

I have run this gambit back and forth 1000 times in my mind. Never having owned one, I really don't know how big a deal the 3:73 vs 4:10 will be if I want to run 35s. I don't really know how big a deal lockers will be during slick conditions. I don't really know if having a wider axle truck vs a standard width matters. What I do know is that I like newer models with fewer miles, loaded features, and specific colors.

Who can put my mind at ease on these variables that I am just not sure about? The max I'd lift one is 2" and that would likely be a AEV spacer lift. Whatever off-roading I do would be lightweight comparatively.

If you ever plan on towing over 4,000 lbs, save your $$$$ and find a Sport or Sport S with Max Tow. That way you get the automatic, 4:10 posi rear. Plus around 1,600 lbs payload! The highest available in any trim. Be careful though, most low mileage nice examples are worth almost like you can find a new one for. Especially when you consider the favorable finance rates for new over used. You could probably get the same payment for a year or two longer, but for a new truck and full warranty.

 

[Janster]

- Sorry but this isn't 100% accurate, only the STi from Subaru and the sport model Audis do that. I literally build Subarus for racing, and know every transmission, gear ratio per gearbox, center diff options, etc. Only the STi has a mechanical split center diff using a clutch to lock the F/R together as the driver desires. The Audis that do this function the same way the STi does, albeit more so via the computer on the fly.

Ok…I’m not arguing anything you’re saying…..
However you want to slice it… In my opinion, the Auto4WD in the JT is not the same thing as the AWD systems in most SUV’s. It’s just not…. It’s not as complex and not nearly as refined or as good. To me… it’s 2WD (with the front driveline engaged) until the truck thinks you need 4WD. That’s it……. but most places you read online, they treat it like its the same as AWD. Not to me….

My husband has a BMW M4 and yea….you need to be a rocket scientist to understand the drive modes. There are so many different modes to chose from and there are a gazillion settings you can adjust in each mode to fine tune your driving experience. Holy Shit man…….I’d guess 85% (or more) don’t even use any of that. And ’experimenting’ with the settings can get you into some serious trouble if you don’t know what you’re changing.

 

[Gizmo]

Sound like the Jeep Transfer case is similar to my last Ram . Front axle didnt engage until the rear tires slipped slightly. I cured that with a resister that a Ram forum member up in Canada came up with that plugged in line in a wiring harness. When it was in 4x4 it changed the pressure on the clutches in the TC. Now it work the way i wanted it , no more nanny deciding when it was a 4x4

 

[Blade1668]

I plan to be a first-time Jeep owner in 2026 with a planned purchase of a used Gladiator sometime this new year. I have been doing a lot of window shopping, watching YouTube, searching online, and learning about Jeeps, packages, and all types of things.
What I plan: Mostly (99%) daily driver, which is almost 100% pavement, whether in town or on the highway. I'm not concerned about having a super cushy ride, I've had many trucks, and trucks can be a bit rough. I will tow some with it. When I tow, it will mostly be under 4K lbs, though on rare occasions it could be as much as 5-6K, but probably never over that.

My last 4x4 truck did not have a positive track rear end, making it almost useless to me as a 4x4 when it was off-road or slick outside. In NC where I live, we are more prone to icy winters than snowing winters, but lately it's an occasional blend.

I like the option of the 4:10 year because it tows better generally and it gives me more confidence in going to a 35" tire.

But in reality, on my budget, I am looking at used Jeeps and only 3 models have a 4:10 gear. Rubicon, which holds its value the best, Mojave, and the S with Max towing.

Here is where I'm torn. Is getting something like a High Altitude with all of the creature comforts I want worth compromising on the gear ratio of the Sport S, and the lockers of the Majave or Rubi just because I found more of them in the colors I like, newer with fewer miles, and never or seldom taken off road.... or is it best to either buy a color I'm not as in love with, or have to wait to find the right color, which likely has more miles, older, more offroad use, but has the gear and lockers.

I have run this gambit back and forth 1000 times in my mind. Never having owned one, I really don't know how big a deal the 3:73 vs 4:10 will be if I want to run 35s. I don't really know how big a deal lockers will be during slick conditions. I don't really know if having a wider axle truck vs a standard width matters. What I do know is that I like newer models with fewer miles, loaded features, and specific colors.

Who can put my mind at ease on these variables that I am just not sure about? The max I'd lift one is 2" and that would likely be a AEV spacer lift. Whatever off-roading I do would be lightweight comparatively.

Reading your situation a "Max-Tow package is likely a better fit in many ways. Lockers and ice can be interesting to say the least. On limited slip it can be the same especially if you don't have some weight in the rear... standard open differential too. But the 4:10 ratio will be sadly missed especially if you are installing 35" tires. My 2020 Max-Tow, I definitely noticed just going to 33x10.5r17 tires. FYI I even could tell a difference between the stock HT tires and the AT tires mine came with. Ice and snow the HT tires are s### well in my opinion any conditions to include squirrel handling without 40-45 psi. A Rubicon or Mojave are nice but the question there is in the $$$. Buying right vs buyer's regret. The Max-Tow has heavier duty springs so if you decide to install a lift kit more likely the lift kit springs will not give you the same ride or amount of lift. Then "the Carolina squat" I took the lift springs out and installed 2" spacers with stock springs "3" would be better for rear springs" to not have the rear sag crap. I guess that sagging of trucks is a off shoot of the sagging pants I could go on a tangent with that and where it started and what it signaled.
FYI I'm partial to the Max-Tow package that was my "requirement" knowing that I tow a lot and hauling stuff... 2 boats, 16ft pontoon boat and pond prowler, 16 travel trailer, 2 utility trailers, one of them is custom ordered HD construction.

 

[Foxmannc]

Reading your situation a "Max-Tow package is likely a better fit in many ways. Lockers and ice can be interesting to say the least. On limited slip it can be the same especially if you don't have some weight in the rear... standard open differential too. But the 4:10 ratio will be sadly missed especially if you are installing 35" tires. My 2020 Max-Tow, I definitely noticed just going to 33x10.5r17 tires.

Yeah, I really like a loaded Sport S with the max tow and the creature comforts, they're just really rare. One question, can a rear locker be added if I wanted one? Is that a big deal to add?

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Yeah, I really like a loaded Sport S with the max tow and the creature comforts, they're just really rare. One question, can a rear locker be added if I wanted one? Is that a big deal to add?

Yes, absolutely! That's also my plan with my 2021 Willys (essentially a Sport S with other options) even though it has the Trac-lok aka "Anti-spin" aka a clutch-based rear differential.

You'll appreciate the EATON Detroit True-trac LSD (Torsen aka gear-based) on a MaxTow for a few reasons. It has almost ZERO maintenance compared to Willys LSD or even the OEM lockers (the "Anti-spin" (Willys/Trak-lok) requires rebuilds every 30-45k miles to stay effective or it will become an open differential, and the OEM lockers require "potting" to (significantly) reduce how soon the sensor inside fails (they leak, known issue for the JL/JT platform).

FYI, watch out for the 2024+ Willys as they come standard with a rear locker on the auto. You don't want that open diff AHEM I I mean locker is your situation. For towing you'll want a LSD, just not a locker, those are for extreme off-roading. You have either clutch or gear LSD options, and gear is just the most cost effective. Really, it's almost the same price as the clutch/rear end rebuild kit from Jeep, and you have to keep doing them every 30-45k as they wear out. Gear LSD never wear out, and rarely fail unless severely abused over time.

 

[Gvsukids]

the "Anti-spin" (Willys/Trak-lok) requires rebuilds every 30-45k miles

Really? What's the sign that it's worn out?

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Really? What's the sign that it's worn out?

When they wear out, you'll notice less grip in slippery conditions, going uphill and/or towing, mostly while driving straight, TC/ESC will kick in more often and you'll have less speed/acceleration. In turns, when you step on the throttle, it won't want to step out/rotate the rear as easily as before. It's not always night/day, but when you replace them and try something fun again...it will be noticeable. They're essentially just a fancy "sprung" open diff, and for the cost to PROPERLY rebuild...just swap a Torsen/Gear LSD.

This is coming from a design aspect for intended use:

Generally, wear items (items that have either a friction material or another consumable portion) require rebuilds or replacement (bushings, shocks/struts, wheel/driveshaft/carrier bearings, u-joints, brakes, clutches, etc) after a certain amount of time/mileage/abuse. Not maintaining related components will induce earlier failure (wheel spacers WILL kill wheel bearings much sooner, or not having a good alignment can wear out your tires in a couple hundred miles, for example).

Clutches are a friction item, and just like the clutch in a transmission (even automatics, non-cvt, use clutches) they wear out with use/abuse. The Willys "Trac-lok" aka "Anti-slip" rear diff uses clutches, and when you're either turning or have any rear wheel slip, those clutches are working

Towing/hauling? More wear. Off-roading? Yep, more wear. Having fun with a RWD vehicle? You bet there's more wear! <- Those all wear out the clutches faster than normal pavement commuting (what the losers at Stellantis design them for). If you use it more like a mall crawler, you'll probably be fine and need rebuild closer to 60k miles.

Stellantis claims "lifetime fluid/parts" on their trannys/diffs, but then also claim "40k fluid changes if: towing/hauling, off-roading at all, heavy loads" etc. So obviously they DO require maintenance, but telling a customer that's about to drop 55-65k on a vehicle in 2020+ that they have to spend more money repeatedly, they will walk out unless they know what they're getting into. (This stereotype comes from working in both the service and sales side of dealerships, and is disgustingly accurate). <- Doing rear end fluid changes early (every 15k) will extend the life of the clutched diffs. That's what I aim for and they work pretty well for close to 60k miles of daily "spirited" driving and moderate off-road use. But then again, I own a manual and do both gearbox/rear end fluids to keep shifting smooth.

I have a bad habit of providing too much info. But I want people to be educated correctly before making a choice they may not fully understand.

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