What Did You Do FOR Your Gladiator Today?

[xman1564]

instslled motobilt weld on rock sliders

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[xman1564]

installed aev 3" dualsport lift with hi capacity springs and added superlift 2" front spring spacers and added front 2" extensions to my front shocks, moved rear swsybar links to front, added metalcloak bumpstops and front spring isolators and now have a total of 5" of lift, i now have 31 k hard offroad miles on it on stock driveline with 0 ishues, highly recomend Aev lift only about 2200.00 invested and its an awsum ride?

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I thought you needed longer brake lines, not just brackets, with more than like 3.5” of lift?
When I put my 2.5” springs in I don’t think I could’ve safely stretched my brake lines any further than to squeak those springs in?

If you loosen the bracket on the frame, the control arm, and the axle, you have brake ABS lines for days up front.
You'll notice in the market they sell rear extended brake lines, not front. Plenty of slack up front to be found.
Plus, Dude: get some spring compressors. Any local auto parts chain will loan them to you with a deposit. Makes life much easier especially springs longer than 3".
Just make sure you use them properly cuz they can be a killer if they get away from you.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

installed aev 3" dualsport lift with hi capacity springs and added superlift 2" front spring spacers and added front 2" extensions to my front shocks, moved rear swsybar links to front, added metalcloak bumpstops and front spring isolators and now have a total of 5" of lift, i now have 31 k hard offroad miles on it on stock driveline with 0 ishues, highly recomend Aev lift only about 2200.00 invested and its an awsum ride?

Nice.
How much down travel do you now have on your front shocks?

 

[xman1564]

its what ever the bilstein 5100 have that come with the aev lift with 2" shock extensions added, it still has the down travel aev intended for their 3" lift and no drive line ishues in 32k mi

 

[mx5red]

If you loosen the bracket on the frame, the control arm, and the axle, you have brake ABS lines for days up front.
You'll notice in the market they sell rear extended brake lines, not front. Plenty of slack up front to be found.
Plus, Dude: get some spring compressors. Any local auto parts chain will loan them to you with a deposit. Makes life much easier especially springs longer than 3".
Just make sure you use them properly cuz they can be a killer if they get away from you.

I used them and it was still hard! Had to borrow more clamps

 

[USMC_1Wire6337]

I used them and it was still hard! Had to borrow more clamps

At least you're not this guy

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I used them and it was still hard! Had to borrow more clamps

You must be EOD, lol.
What's your favorite crayon flavor?

 

[mx5red]

You must be EOD, lol.
What's your favorite crayon flavor?

Peach

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you loosen the bracket on the frame, the control arm, and the axle, you have brake ABS lines for days up front.
You'll notice in the market they sell rear extended brake lines, not front. Plenty of slack up front to be found.
Plus, Dude: get some spring compressors. Any local auto parts chain will loan them to you with a deposit. Makes life much easier especially springs longer than 3".
Just make sure you use them properly cuz they can be a killer if they get away from you.

Yup on the spring compressors......

The fun ones were the ones used on AMCs up through 1969 that literally clipped into the cups on each end of the front springs. If you had to replace a spring, you used the spring "compressors" to remove it, sat it under a hoist, lowered the hoist to compress the spring, remove the clamps, raised the hoist, then reversed the process with the new spring.
You had to be rather brave. (or nuts, I've not decided yet)

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Yup on the spring compressors......

The fun ones were the ones used on AMCs up through 1969 that literally clipped into the cups on each end of the front springs. If you had to replace a spring, you used the spring "compressors" to remove it, sat it under a hoist, lowered the hoist to compress the spring, remove the clamps, raised the hoist, then reversed the process with the new spring.
You had to be rather brave. (or nuts, I've not decided yet)

Is that the one they call "The Widowmaker"?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is that the one they call "The Widowmaker"?

It's the user who can't figure out how to use proper spring compressors that makes their own wife a widow.
The setup I showed is totally safe.
What people don't get is that you must position pairs of compressors exactly 180 degrees apart on the spring.
Any dummy can make almost any spring compressor a "widowmaker".

The one I pictured works great on Jeep front springs. You do have to watch how you position them on the spring so that when it's in place you can release the compressors - it's possible to get yourself into a "can't get there from here" situation, unable to remove them once the spring is in.

I guess of all of the years I've been dealing with springs, I've yet to figure out how some people can make a reasonably safe job so unsafe, but then nature has never been short of Darwin award winners.
180 degrees - spring can't come out. It's a balance of forces.

How about "identify this spring compressor" and how is it used.......

Or these -

 

[DQQSE]

Went to a township yard sale and ran into a 73’ Commando

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Took around 10 minutes to air down the other day using the little preset screw in jobbies, and then somewhere between 20-30 minutes to air back up after the deed with my Milwaukee battery air compressor and a manual chuck.

So I put together a list on Amazon for about $110 for the parts to make my own inflation system, then add $20 for the tank from a thrift store.

Now, to get my 40" Pats down to 15# from 40# takes roughly 3 mins. I thought using ⅜" ID hose would expedite the process a little more but either the shrader valve or the quick connect is a serious choke point. I can live with 3 minutes for the time being. 4 including setup.

As it turns out, a 50' air hose is just enough to make this system work from a compressor on your tailgate. That was close.

As for reinflating, The 7 gal tank precharged to 120# gave a 1 minute, 8# boost to about 23#. From there it took about 13-14 more minutes for the compressor alone to bring pressure up the rest of the way which is 38# in the back and 40# in the front.

The major benefit which I thought would be time, is convenience which carries a bit of value. It is nice to "Set it, and forget it" with the added bonus when reinflating to conveniently get the rears and front tires at the same pressures simultaneously.

I will be looking for another tank to precharge and hopefully cut another 5-7 minutes off the reinflation time.

 

[cranbiz]

I washed it inside and out.

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