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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Rusty PW

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And on my previous builds I did the same thing and recommend others to as well. But when I installed these arms I was on a time crunch so I just threw them in. Probably my own fault. But I still point towards the narrow joints being too weak because I had them wear out in just a couple years in my TJ as well, and those were disassembled and greased before installation. Meanwhile I've had their larger joints with the split bushings last a decade with minimal if any maintenance after installation.
Which arms you using?
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BlueScapegoat

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Which arms you using?
Whatever the Core4x4 arms are with the JJs on both ends, the only ones they sell like that, as far as I know. Crawl series I think they call them.
With the exception of the rear upper arms where I've gone RK triangulated.

The TJ I had savvy short arms which also utilized the narrow 2" JJ on top but a couple years ago installed the Savvy Mid Arm kit that uses big boy JJs all around

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Bandit’s Lair

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Front antirock gets here Friday. Today I removed the front skid plate, and electronic disconnect sway bar. Came up with a plan for how I'm going to cut the tusks and maintain support for the winch plate, if I decide to stick with the antirock.

Front axle was perfectly centered left and right at ride height but would rub the inner fender at full tuck on the left, so shortened the drag link and track bar one thread.

Previously had the coil rubbing the track bar and sector shaft brace. Since I've gone hydro assist I figured I don't really need the shitty bearing on the sector shaft, so I picked up a tracl bar brace only, and trimmed it up and painted it. I also shortened all front control arms one thread to move the axle back a tiny bit. Hoping between the two the rub will be fixed.

While shortening the arms I discovered one of the frame end upper johnny joints was worn out already. I've only had these arms on here for a year. Maybe just defective, but I had another one on hand so I rebuilt it. I'm a huge JJ fan but I think ultimately a 2" narrow joint is just too small for the arms on a diesel with 40s.

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Do you need any detailed pics of Anti Rock installed? if so give me a holler and I’ll get whatever I can with my paltry photo skills. I have tomorrow off for the most part.
 

Rusty PW

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Whatever the Core4x4 arms are with the JJs on both ends, the only ones they sell like that, as far as I know. Crawl series I think they call them.
With the exception of the rear upper arms where I've gone RK triangulated.

The TJ I had savvy short arms which also utilized the narrow 2" JJ on top but a couple years ago installed the Savvy Mid Arm kit that uses big boy JJs all around

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I have the Crawl series like you. The only small JJ's are on the front upper arms at the rear. They're 2". The rest are 2.5".
 

DanJT

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I’m on the other side of that opinion. Definitely no offense. Just discussing. When I drain my oil after approximately 5k miles, or 20-30% oil life, I get well over 4.5 quarts out of the pan. And the filter is very full when it comes out. So over that many miles, I'm not losing oil. And that’s with well over 20 oil changes in 85k miles. I don’t know what ends up in those catch cans or why, but without one, the majority of these engines don’t seem to lose oil. That’s why I question their importance.
Fair, but I'm just glad that this didn't make it's way into my intake.
 

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WILDHOBO

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Fair, but I'm just glad that this didn't make it's way into my intake.
It’s burn fine. :) in all seriousness, I wonder if the act of adding a catch can, changes pressures and vacuum enough to catch things that wouldn’t have been a problem with the factory setup.
 

RudeJeepin

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It’s burn fine. :) in all seriousness, I wonder if the act of adding a catch can, changes pressures and vacuum enough to catch things that wouldn’t have been a problem with the factory setup.
Back in my school bus mechanic days, Washington's Department of Ecology wanted all of the schools to add filter systems to the crankcase breather tubes.
It was a complicated system that ended up over pressurizing the crankcase and blew out seals.
What a cluster that was. It ended up costing some of the early adopters serious money and downtime. The second or third generation of the system worked better, but was still stupid.
Wasn't the only stupid idea DOE tried to push on the school busses.
 

WILDHOBO

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Back in my school bus mechanic days, Washington's Department of Ecology wanted all of the schools to add filter systems to the crankcase breather tubes.
It was a complicated system that ended up over pressurizing the crankcase and blew out seals.
What a cluster that was. It ended up costing some of the early adopters serious money and downtime. The second or third generation of the system worked better, but was still stupid.
Wasn't the only stupid idea DOE tried to push on the school busses.
Sound like it’s then legitimately possible that catch can systems change pressure, and create problems that they “solve”. I don’t have a way to prove it, but my 20+ oil changes, all measuring the amount of oil drained, are evidence enough for me.
 

JTdiRtyD

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I just changed the catch can yesterday with a little over 1K miles (mostly interstate)
Oil catch can.webp
.
This is why I think it is a necessity,
Fair, but I'm just glad that this didn't make it's way into my intake.
I'm more concerned about the color of that oil. Looks like choccy milk...
 

WILDHOBO

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I'm more concerned about the color of that oil. Looks like choccy milk...
I agree. I think it’s mostly condensation mixed with a tiny bit of oil. I think these things cause problems that didn’t exist, then catch the problem, making users think they’re working. But there’s never any explanation for where it came from.
 

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Mightytalldude

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Sound like it’s then legitimately possible that catch can systems change pressure, and create problems that they “solve”. I don’t have a way to prove it, but my 20+ oil changes, all measuring the amount of oil drained, are evidence enough for me.
Having a Super Duty with a V10, the blowby was bad enough that it would consume 1 quart+ of oil through the intake in less than 3000 miles. Early 2 valve V10's we're notorious for low oil levels. After adding the catch can to it, the intake stayed clean, still had to add oil to the engine regularly, but at least it wasn't coating the upper part of the engine. I got 175,000 miles out of the first engine, the second was still going strong when I sold it at 236,000 miles.

I added a catch can to my JT, get enough out of it during oil changes to raise an eyebrow, the blowby is minimal in comparison to the Super Duty, but enough that I'm good with the catch can keeping upper intake cleaner. For the question of reduced pressure, that's an mechanical engineer question. I like it for my own peace of mind.
 

WILDHOBO

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Having a Super Duty with a V10, the blowby was bad enough that it would consume 1 quart+ of oil through the intake in less than 3000 miles. Early 2 valve V10's we're notorious for low oil levels. After adding the catch can to it, the intake stayed clean, still had to add oil to the engine regularly, but at least it wasn't coating the upper part of the engine. I got 175,000 miles out of the first engine, the second was still going strong when I sold it at 236,000 miles.

I added a catch can to my JT, get enough out of it during oil changes to raise an eyebrow, the blowby is minimal in comparison to the Super Duty, but enough that I'm good with the catch can keeping upper intake cleaner. For the question of reduced pressure, that's an mechanical engineer question. I like it for my own peace of mind.
I obviously knew you had one, and I’m not a mechanical engineer either. So I’m just discussing. Not trying to tell people they’re not doing the right thing. Does yours also look like chocolate milk, indicating for me that water is in the can?
 

RudeJeepin

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I'm more concerned about the color of that oil. Looks like choccy milk...
That was the first thing I noticed.

Maybe he does a lot of short trips, not getting it up to temp long enough to burn any condensation off.
 
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WILDHOBO

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That was looking the first thing I noticed.

Maybe he does a lot of short trips, not getting it up to temp long enough to burn any condensation off.
Decent theory.
 

JTdiRtyD

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I agree. I think it’s mostly condensation mixed with a tiny bit of oil. I think these things cause problems that didn’t exist, then catch the problem, making users think they’re working. But there’s never any explanation for where it came from.
IMO they are far less important and typically not needed with naturally aspirated, and unless running a high performane N/A build they are more of a cool factor than anything. If someone is seeing high amounts of oil in the can with N/A they likely have other issues (usually a stuck PCV, removing the PCV, or not installing the system correctly). However they can be very beneficial with forced induction to reduce blowby.
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