Which Aux switch set to buy?

[Tacklewasher]

So I have a cheap ($60) switch set I picked up at Princess (Canada's Harbor Freight) that I want to upgrade and make it look factory. I have the left side locker switches so just need the right side. The switches I bought look light up brighter when they are off than when they are on, don't fit right and just look ugly.

I'd also like to control how they work through the uConnect, as I want my winch to be engine running, but some other switches to be powered anytime.

I have a Tazer so am thinking the z-Auto set of switches etc. , or am I better off with Mopar? Or is there another option that allows the uConnect to control the switches (or am I wrong about the z-Auto stuff).

I'm happy with 4 switches. I can use a low amp for the winch to activate my solenoid. So 3 for lights and nothing real high powered.

Thanks

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[Mr._Bill]

If you want the control through the head unit, the Mopar Aux Switches are the only option.

 

[Jammin jimmy]

If control through the head unit isn’t a priority lasfit is a decent option.

 

[Tacklewasher]

The Z auto website shows them controlling the switches, but has anyone here actually done this?

Having said that, it looks like I can get the Mopar kit for less.

Is this kit missing anything?

https://www.moparcanadaparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-auxiliary-switch-bank-silver-82215798af

Or is this one right?

https://www.moparcanadaparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-auxiliary-switch-bank-silver-82215798ag

 

[Alx63]

I did the Mopar kit and it's very easy add on. The pain is pocking the wire through the firewall. The video below was the best step by step.

 

[gatorboy]

I did the Mopar kit and it's very easy add on. The pain is pocking the wire through the firewall. The video below was the best step by step.

Buy the MOPAR factory aux. switches and have dealer install it. It wil show up in Aux Switch display in dash info and you can set them up individually. The dealer will also enter the aux switches in the MOPAR data bank, then they will enter a number in your VIN # that states your vehicle has the aux. switches. Pretty Cool.
I know. Had it done

 

[wcberry]

I did the Mopar kit and it's very easy add on. The pain is pocking the wire through the firewall. The video below was the best step by step.

Are you able to punch/cut the hole in the firewall grommet from the inside? Then push the fish from the outside? Seems taking out the Aux battery would give some more room. I plan on giving it a try, just dont want to cut any of the wires already in the firewall.

 

[Alx63]

From the inside with a hard wire push through the dual walled diaphragm its filled with some black jell. It must provide water proofing. once your through pull it from the outside and tape your cables good. Use some lube or your cables will not come through. Don't cut it like in the video.

 

[HooliganActual]

@Tacklewasher I know you said you want to control through the Uconnect. I'm not sure why that is because you aren't really controlling anything other than whether the switch works with the Ignition On or Off. How about a different option that sacrifices that feature but gives you several others?

Get a Trigger Controller
https://triggercontroller.com/trigger-controller-4-plus/

Here's some reasons why I like it and use it:

• First off you can get a 4 or 6 switch model
• You can mount it in the engine compartment, which means you don't have to mess with running wiring through the firewall
• It comes with an RF remote that you can mount anywhere. You can just leave it in your center console until needed
• But the feature I love, is that I can operate it with an app on my phone.

I have one mounted in my JKUR to run the typical winch, rock lights, light bar items but I also have one mounted in my Gladiator to manage all the house loads in the bed:

Here's the RF remote:

And the phone app:

I can be up in the RTT and turn the scene lights on if I have to come down in the middle of the night or if I sitting over by the campfire, I can turn them on from there.

Just a thought...

 

[HooliganActual]

From the inside with a hard wire push through the dual walled diaphragm its filled with some black jell. It must provide water proofing. once your through pull it from the outside and tape your cables good. Use some lube or your cables will not come through. Don't cut it like in the video.

@wcberry Agreed with this approach. On all 3 of my current Jeeps, I essentially did this BUT for the "hard wire" I just used a straightened coat hanger with a hook bent in the end like a fish tape. Poke the straight end through the grommet and tape your wires to the hook.

 

[Alx63]

@wcberry Agreed with this approach. On all 3 of my current Jeeps, I essentially did this BUT for the "hard wire" I just used a straightened coat hanger with a hook bent in the end like a fish tape. Poke the straight end through the grommet and tape your wires to the hook.

I couldn't find a coat hanger, I had to use heavy gauge wire which is what caused most of my difficulty. Other than that it's very easy project. I did use the ODB JScan much cheaper.

 

[Tacklewasher]

@HooliganActual I'm looking for as factory as possible. And I'd like to have some switches (winch solenoid) not powered unless I intend to have it powered, and only with the motor running.

@gatorboy Do I need the dealer to program this, or can I not just enable it with my Tazer. From what I've seen I can enable the switches with the Tazer.

Also, can you run the wires into the cab through the grommet on the drivers side? I've done this with several wires already (12v for brake controller, z auto front cam and my current switch set).

 

[ChecksOut]

@Tacklewasher I know you said you want to control through the Uconnect. I'm not sure why that is because you aren't really controlling anything other than whether the switch works with the Ignition On or Off. How about a different option that sacrifices that feature but gives you several others?

Get a Trigger Controller
https://triggercontroller.com/trigger-controller-4-plus/

Here's some reasons why I like it and use it:

• First off you can get a 4 or 6 switch model
• You can mount it in the engine compartment, which means you don't have to mess with running wiring through the firewall
• It comes with an RF remote that you can mount anywhere. You can just leave it in your center console until needed
• But the feature I love, is that I can operate it with an app on my phone.

I have one mounted in my JKUR to run the typical winch, rock lights, light bar items but I also have one mounted in my Gladiator to manage all the house loads in the bed:

Here's the RF remote:

And the phone app:

I can be up in the RTT and turn the scene lights on if I have to come down in the middle of the night or if I sitting over by the campfire, I can turn them on from there.

Just a thought...

I bought the Trigger not too long ago and it was a pretty straight forward install. Installed under the hood with the available mount and the switches by mirror.

 

[EricStanley]

I haven't done it yet, but seriously considering the Garmin Power Switch. Their app is Car Play (or Android Auto for you green bubble people) compatible. No running wires through the firewall or disassembling the dash. Lots of customization options and it seems to be the only one out there that actually allows you to control it (not just configure it) from the head unit via CarPlay / Android Auto. https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/718849/

 

[wcberry]

If you want the control through the head unit, the Mopar Aux Switches are the only option.

The Z-Automotive use the head unit like OEM. After you do the hardware part, use the Tazer or other method to turn on the switch control in the Head unit. You have the same functionality as the OEM version. Also seems a bit easier to install since you dont have to re-pin a connector.

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