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Who's going to buy a Sport S now, then a Rubicon in 2 years?

Jeepznthingz

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Hmmm, i might just do the sport then because even with almost all the options its only $36270, I can enjoy driving a JT for 2-4 years and still get like $24-26,000 (and don't have to worry about somebody not wanting my vehicle because of lack of options) when i sell it. Then i can get my fully loaded Rubigator with 3.0 I6 Turbo or plug in hybrid, lol

Or I could have a nice upcoming 6 months at work and just get the Rubigator this year.

roll up tonneau cover
max tow package with 4.1 axle ratio,
auxillary switch group
block heater
8 speed auto
track lok anti spin rear differential

$32,972.00 invoice
$1,495.00 msrp
-2315 6% discount
$36270 before tax
Get the rubigator this year, then when the diesel comes out, sell the rubigator.
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starrsRN

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Wait to get the rubigator when funds allow. Sport S will be no slouch either. Can’t go wrong either way honestly.
 

JTRUBI

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My head hurts from all that math.

Personally, I will just wait and buy used. I can't justify basically a $1,000/month car note PLUS insurance for 5 years. I think this is why people lease instead of buy super expensive cars.
Geez $1000 a month? Are you guys not putting any down payment on these things?

And even still how is it that high ?
 

starrsRN

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Geez $1000 a month? Are you guys not putting any down payment on these things?

And even still how is it that high ?
I couldn’t bring myself to drive something that cost more than my mortgage.
 

JTRUBI

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I couldn’t bring myself to drive something that cost more than my mortgage.
I guess in the States homes are a lot cheaper if a Jeep is more than your mortgage payments. Houses are crazy over here. I wish we could get homes cheaper than a Jeep lol
 

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WXman

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I said it in the beginning the sport S is the way to go for the gladiator. You can get the max tow which will give you dana 44 front/rear and 4.10 gears. Rubicon flares can be purchased from the dealer and installed. Wheels tires can be added also. It’s definatley the best bang for the buck scenario. You’ll be able to build a sport S for far cheaper than a lightly modded Rubicon.
Since the Rubicon has a tow rating that's only 650 lbs. less than the Max Tow Sport model, I'm considering getting a Rubicon instead and then add a load leveling device of some sort to handle payload, similar to what the Ram 1500 guys are doing.

As far as the fenders go, Max Tow comes with "molded in color" fenders. Doesn't that mean it's got the body color fenders already? Or does that refer to the grey Rubbermaid fenders?

Geez $1000 a month? Are you guys not putting any down payment on these things?

And even still how is it that high ?
The guys that do short term financing get to $1,000/month very easily. That's why statistics show that most Americans are doing 72-84 month terms these days.
 

ThirtyOne

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If you want to do the Sport to Rubicon thing in 3 years then lease. You will spend the minimum possible on the Sport that way. Which means you can save up money for the Rubicon. You may get lucky and have some equity at the end of your lease. You would have to limit mods but if you are looking to flip in a few years you should limit mods anyway.
 

MPETE

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As far as the fenders go, Max Tow comes with "molded in color" fenders. Doesn't that mean it's got the body color fenders already? Or does that refer to the grey Rubbermaid fenders?
"molded in color" means the black/gray textured flares.
 

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Since the Rubicon has a tow rating that's only 650 lbs. less than the Max Tow Sport model, I'm considering getting a Rubicon instead and then add a load leveling device of some sort to handle payload, similar to what the Ram 1500 guys are doing.

As far as the fenders go, Max Tow comes with "molded in color" fenders. Doesn't that mean it's got the body color fenders already? Or does that refer to the grey Rubbermaid fenders?



The guys that do short term financing get to $1,000/month very easily. That's why statistics show that most Americans are doing 72-84 month terms these days.
Anyone know how relatively easy it is to get a 72 or 84 term? I'm definitely going to go this route in a year or so when I get mine. Definitely can't afford 1,000 a month:surprised:
 

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I guess in the States homes are a lot cheaper if a Jeep is more than your mortgage payments. Houses are crazy over here. I wish we could get homes cheaper than a Jeep lol
He didn’t say the house was cheaper, just the monthly payment. The difference between a 30 year loan and a 5 year loan.... The cost of homes in the US varies wildly, much like it probably does in Canada.
 

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Guys (and girls), look...
If you want to spend your money on something that is really important to you, far be it for me to argue against that.
However, if you're going to look for financial justification, there is none. Here are some important financial facts for you to remember.

1. Any time your interest rate exceeds that of treasury bond rates, you are paying extra money. Stretching that over 72/84 months means you are paying even more extra money. Let's not forget that 6-7 years is plenty of time for your financial situation to change, a recession to happen, trade war, real war, etc.

2. If you care about being smart financially, you really shouldn't be spending more than 30% of your yearly salary on a vehicle. For instance, if your combined family income is 100k per year, then 30k is a reasonable price to pay for your vehicle. Since vehicles can be a hobby, I would say that getting up to 50% of yearly salary can be considered.

3. Buying a vehicle with the surefire knowledge that you're just going to trade it in one year or two is literally the best way to throw money in the garbage short of withdrawing your account in cash and... throwing it in the garbage. All vehicles depreciate the highest in years one and two. Either buy something you can afford or just accept that you don't need all of the features to have an enjoyable vehicle.

These are the car buying rules I try to stick to:
  • Buy a vehicle under 30% of my yearly salary.
  • Finance for maximum incentives, longest term possible without affecting interest rate.
  • Pay off financing amount in one year.
I punch those numbers into my calculator, and I get a happy face. The only thing that feels better than rolling around with your top off on a nice summer day is knowing that you're not in debt to anyone.
 

drace99

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Sport S for me...I drove a Rubicon Wrangler and a Sport. The sport rode much better. The larger tires just felt too bumpy and loud and I just don't think I can drive it for more than 30 minutes without getting a headache. Ordering a Granite Crystal with probably tan interior as soon as possible.
 
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steffen707

steffen707

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As far as the fenders go, Max Tow comes with "molded in color" fenders. Doesn't that mean it's got the body color fenders already? Or does that refer to the grey Rubbermaid fenders?
I think there are black fenders, and then there are black rubicon fenders.
If you want to do the Sport to Rubicon thing in 3 years then lease. You will spend the minimum possible on the Sport that way. Which means you can save up money for the Rubicon. You may get lucky and have some equity at the end of your lease. You would have to limit mods but if you are looking to flip in a few years you should limit mods anyway.
I started a lease thread, looks like a lease is SUPER expensive on a jeep.
Anyone know how relatively easy it is to get a 72 or 84 term? I'm definitely going to go this route in a year or so when I get mine. Definitely can't afford 1,000 a month:surprised:
Very easy, my van is on a 72 month. ugh
3. Buying a vehicle with the surefire knowledge that you're just going to trade it in one year or two is literally the best way to throw money in the garbage short of withdrawing your account in cash and... throwing it in the garbage. All vehicles depreciate the highest in years one and two. Either buy something you can afford or just accept that you don't need all of the features to have an enjoyable vehicle.

.
I know doing this is burning money, but so is a lease. I probably SHOULDN'T buy a JT, but I want it and only live once, so i'm just comparing options at this point.
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Chance_P

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Guys (and girls), look...
If you want to spend your money on something that is really important to you, far be it for me to argue against that.
However, if you're going to look for financial justification, there is none. Here are some important financial facts for you to remember.

1. Any time your interest rate exceeds that of treasury bond rates, you are paying extra money. Stretching that over 72/84 months means you are paying even more extra money. Let's not forget that 6-7 years is plenty of time for your financial situation to change, a recession to happen, trade war, real war, etc.

2. If you care about being smart financially, you really shouldn't be spending more than 30% of your yearly salary on a vehicle. For instance, if your combined family income is 100k per year, then 30k is a reasonable price to pay for your vehicle. Since vehicles can be a hobby, I would say that getting up to 50% of yearly salary can be considered.

3. Buying a vehicle with the surefire knowledge that you're just going to trade it in one year or two is literally the best way to throw money in the garbage short of withdrawing your account in cash and... throwing it in the garbage. All vehicles depreciate the highest in years one and two. Either buy something you can afford or just accept that you don't need all of the features to have an enjoyable vehicle.

These are the car buying rules I try to stick to:
  • Buy a vehicle under 30% of my yearly salary.
  • Finance for maximum incentives, longest term possible without affecting interest rate.
  • Pay off financing amount in one year.
I punch those numbers into my calculator, and I get a happy face. The only thing that feels better than rolling around with your top off on a nice summer day is knowing that you're not in debt to anyone.

Just curious, what's your rule for home price vs annual income? Something tells me we live in drastically different parts of the country.
 
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steffen707

steffen707

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